New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

I've always wanted to add this to my W650 seat collection.



From VD Classic. http://www.vd-classic.com/EN/access.php?acc=650w

Yep, that's where I bought mine. Definitely a pricey seat. It ended up being around $550. Twinshack doesn't tell you that they charge you shipping as well but then you get this mystery charge a few days later. I wanna say it took around 3 weeks to get. When you put in an order, LSL sends it to Twin Shack, and then TS sends it to you.

I went on another long ride yesterday and I'm finding the seat very comfortable. My first bikes were all pretty aggressive cafes, so I really enjoy having that little swoop up on the seat to press against when you're really leaning into turns or accelerating fast. When you're just cruising around, it is also very comfy. It's just kind of a 1 position seat. No sliding around back and forth.

Great feedback on the LSL seat. Love the way it looks.

As is evident in my photos, I've got a Corbin Gunfighter on my Dub. Bought it used from an inmate. I've had Corbin's on other bikes. Corbin's have two main distinguishing characteristics.
1. They are relatively wide and have a slight dish, meant to provide support to the "sitter's" butt, and I find the shape very good.
2. They are hard--very hard. I find the Corbin on my XR650 to be far more comfortable than the stock XR seat, which feels like a "wedgie" within 10 minutes of first contact. The Gunfighter on the Dub is even harder. I understand why some folks will hate the seat, but I like it. The only downside is there's a bit of vibration evident that was cushioned by the stock powderpuff seat. I can ride the Gunfighter all day, but the stock Dubya seat hurt after about an hour. It wasn't the ridge that got me, it was the soft squishiness. While it was better than the stock XR seat--taking an hour for the "wedgie" to hit--I find the Corbin to be very supportive and reasonably comfortable.

My opinion, FWIW. Disclaimer: I also ride Brooks saddles on bicycles, so I guess I'm a hard-ass.

Hey zwish - love the bike. Looks fantastic. I'm digging the paint scheme. I know what you are saying about the classic tank badges though. I'm thinking these would look great on a satin black tank.


By the way, where did you get your tail light?

Good news! Captain Jake's Big W650 site is back up and running. For the past month or so this site has been down due to malware attacks. It's now up and running, and is a great resource for the W650.

http://www.captainjakes.com/w650/

Yes! Those are the exact badges I was thinking. I haven't found a clear place to get them though. I'm curious how I would mount them. I'm guessing 3M tape? The W650 tank is pretty curved so I'm assuming you'd have to bend these to match the curve of the tank. I was either going to go with those or the old school "kawasaki" badge that you'd find on a 70's Z1 or something like that.

I bought the tail light from Dime City Cycles. http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...arts-chrome-lucas-led-taillight-225-1007.html

I did a little write up about it a few pages back because I had some issues figuring out which lead from the light was ground. It was a pretty simple install and I really like the look. I might shorten the fenders sometime, but for now I'm just glad to be riding again.

Great news about Captain Jake's site. I think I'm going to tackle the air mixture screw adjustment this week.

The badges can be purchased from: http://www.w650shop.de/

They're in the bodywork section on that site, 99 Euros/pair, about $125 at current exchange rate, plus shipping.

Better than the W emblems off the 800, at 182 Euros. :huh

I also have seen the "M" tank emblem off a Matchless turned upside down to form a W, some look pretty good.

For you folks who have done Capt. Jake's air mixture screw mod,

What method did you use to drill through the caps? Currently, I don't have a Dremel and I'm trying to see if there is a simple way to do it without having to buy one. Thanks.

Ummm . . . . sorry, I used the Dremel. It was a good excuse to buy the 90 degree attachment, under the rubric that "it's always good to buy new tools . . . ".

My Dremel was in NC and I was in FL so I used this method. Bought the pin vise at Harbor Freight.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/W650riders/files/Idle Mixture Screw Cap Removal/
It that files section there is a write up on about anything that can be done to a W650.

Hi all,
As a new owner of a 1999 W650 here in Sydney, Australia, I have just read this entire thread and the info is fantastic! I hope this is not considered hijacking, but...

I'm in the process of tidying up the previous owner's work, especially the clean air injection stuff.
My engine and plumbing looks a little different to the pictures and info I've found on this and other sites:


Obviously I need to replace these covers. It looks like the previous owner used a couple of rubber corks!


This is the setup on the left side of the bike. I will remove the open pipe from the airbox and replace it with the correct plug. The pipe has been left open for some time, I assume this is not good? Does everything else look correct?


This is the setup on the right side of the bike. Does this look correct? I can't tell if that is the correct 3-way vacuum connector, and if the right side carb should have that rubber cap, or some other plumbing?

I am mechanically minded, just not experienced with this type of work.

Your advice is really appreciated. Photos of the bike to follow very soon.

Yes, the covers are replaceable. The bike was sold in some markets without the air injection system, so the covers are available without the holes.

Here are the Kawasaki parts numbers for what you need:

11060-1886 x 4, gasket.
11065-1135 x 2, cover plates.
92005-1017 x 1, vacuum T.
92066-1389 x 1, airbox plug.

That's very not good. The pipe comes in above the air filter so it has been dumping unfiltered air into your engine for who knows how long.

The stock setup with air injection was to have a 4-way vacuum connector. One hose to each carb, one to the petcock and one to the air injection valve. After surgery you should have a 3-way connector with one hose to each carb and one to the petcock. There should not be a rubber cap on the right side carb, it should have a vacuum hose on it connected to the 3-way connector.

No, that is not the 3-way vacuum fitting. That is the float bowl vent for the carburetors.

Possibly I missed it but what brand are those pipes?

Thanks Mr Jerk, much appreciated.

It looks pretty simple now but seeing it for the first time was a little confusing.

By the way, for anyone else in this position, this link with diagrams is helpful: http://www1.cncm.ne.jp/~yamaguti/W650 Without KCA(E).htm

Cheers.

Don't know. Pic was lifted from VD Classic site to show their seat.

Still trying to piece my new-to-me W back together. It's spent more time in a garage than it has on the street!

I ordered a bunch of parts through w650shop.de, and so far its been a bit of a frustrating experience. Perhaps others have had more success than I. 3 weeks after I ordered, I finally got a beat up of box parts that reminds me of how I moved in college - throw everything in a box and sort it out later Anyway, there's a bunch of parts missing and without a packing list I have no idea if the parts were ever there or if they fell out through 1 of the 3 holes. Communicating with the shop has been just about as "rewarding" .

The good new is that with all this sitting in one place my bike has revealed a slight oil leak...-sigh-. Seems I'm in the same boat as Harryx5, tidying up previous "enhancements".

I had been searching for some replacement shocks, and it seems the Klaus is the man to talk to http://www.epmperf.com/. I'm going to try a pair of YSS piggyback shocks. Actually the least expensive option for piggybacks I have found (even though I am in France).

Also found an online source for the shop manual. http://tbit.ws/99097290

You should join the Yahoo Group. W650riders@yahoogroups.com <W650RIDERS@YAHOOGROUPS.COM>; <W650RIDERS@YAHOOGROUPS.COM <W650riders@yahoogroups.com>They have resources and links section for members. A PDF of the shop manual is there, along with lots of how-to articles, parts diagrams, etc.

The back-and-forth postings in the forum get a little off-topic sometimes--and you'll detect some interesting opinions, but the Group is an excellent source of information and advice.

I'm already all up in that.