the DR650 thread

sounds good, I will look this up too. )) Im 6'2" so I would like a tall seat.

greg

This procedure will work for most other bikes but on the DR650 setting the mixture screw this way will often result in a slight "rich bog" just off idle. If you aren't going to make other changes to avoid the rich bog most riders have good results turning the mixture screw about 1/4 turn leaner than the highest idle.

Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

Thanks,
Canoli

I've been involved with 2 attempted rotations and both abandoned due to the amount of force needed and concern about breakage. This was with the carb held securely in a vice and the use of a heat gun to try and expand the body a bit away from the pipe. We cut them off, and threaded it and fitted a straight pipe to both.

Others have had no problems.

Good luck.

It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone. As a test, with the pig tail, I ran the tank dry. Curly Q did not air lock. Ran the tank bone dry, including sloshing fuel from the right side.

Wait a minute. Which way is leaner, turning in? Thanks.

My experience as well. I gave up and lived with it the way it is.

In is indeed leaner.

Regards,

Derek

the other option is to to buy a TM40 pumper carb

Been there. With carb on bike and heated got about 20 deg. rotation. Tried for more and the tube kinked. Still runs fine 6K miles later. I'd probably leave it be or pull the stock tube and drill/tap for a straight fitting.

For now I'm just going to leave it alone and before I head out to the middle of nowhere try to run my tank dry.

Thanks guys for the info. You just saved me from screwing up my carb.

Cheers,
Canoli

Put a adjustable shifter spanner on pipe and twisted, some force needed but all good.

I posted pics of my Tall SeatConcepts seat here:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19491088&postcount=68917

I love it. I'm 6'1" and it helped a lot. I did 1500 miles in 7 days and it was the difference between torture (stock) and not even thinking about discomfort. Most days we rode 250 miles. (the first and last days were very short)

I got the standard vinyl because the gripper mat'l on my KTM pulls at my pants too much when sliding around. A wise decision on a bike that I tend to sit much more while riding.

Do yourself a favor and get a tall one.

Hi guys,

Is a 2001 dr650SE with 7000 miles for $2000 Fair? Seller wouldn't go down in price. It's a clean bone stock example. I think nada value is about $1600 for that year. Been looking for one for a while. But no luck. Not many people selling. And ppl want $4500 + for newer years in North east.

updated info, it does have extra gas tank and skid plate. I think that's about it.

Thanks in advance

Doesn't sound bad to me. I've found that DR's tend to hold their value more the older they are, assuming they're in good condition. Not because they're any better, but because the bike hasn't changed in sixteen years. So if it's in real nice condition, I say grab it.

FWIW, I paid $2200 for my '96 DR650 two years ago. But in my case it had a ton of mods on it, all of which I wanted, that would have cost me at least $2000 to buy myself. So I called that a good deal.

Rob

Thanks a lot for the info regarding the rear wheel bearings.

Here's what my original bearings looked like after 28.000 km (12.700 mi)








I guess i was lucky i found out they were crap now, instead of finding out during saterday's off-road ride and getting stranded away from home. To bad i wont be riding this saterday, but instead i will be doing an off-road course the 27th.

I've got new bearings ready. Will update during the week when i get it sorted out.

Another question:
The new bearings will be double-seal versions. Is it still necesary to use the extra seals?


Number 4 and 21.

Regards,
Thanas

IMO the NADA prices are not realistic. I've never seen a clean 96-up DR around here for anywhere near $1600.
$2K for a clean 2001? I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Can't hurt, unless you want to cutback on some friction.

I always use double sealed bearings, and then pack grease betwen them and the outer separate seal. Means that anything that gets past the seal, still has more work to do to get to the bearing.

I think that is 17,400 miles

I haven't seen any under $2000 in good condition. I'm sure they pop up from time to time, but IMO $2000 is fair.