VW Syncro Westfalia - Build Log with Pics

There are a lot of them out there with Subaru conversions, I find myself noticing them a lot more now that I own one

Hodakaguy

Taillights and side markers installed with new stainless hardware.




Time to get the freshly powder coated rear axles together, new Lobro CV joints and boot sets ready to go.




A quick trip to a friends house to use his awesome press....oh yeah, this will make it sooooo easy.




Pressing on the new CV joints with the help of a properly sized Snap-On socket . The splines were lubed with Moly before pressing the CV's on.




Axles assembled. I will leave the band clamps loose until the axles are bolted in place to make sure there is no twist on them.




The CV's will be packed with a quality synthetic grease when I'm ready to mount them up, until then they will be stored.




Got some misc wiring accomplished today as well, wired the starter up and worked on arranging other misc wiring. Lot's more to go.

Hodakaguy

Awesome!

wanna see this thing operating. Fantastic work.

Here's a few pics of one of the larger units, It's a Clark 12 Cyl two cycle engine driving three double acting compressors, it's rated at 4500 HP at 300 RPM.







Geeze, port that thing, put some expansion chambers on and it will make some real power.

Just wondering, any reason why you decided to go with the Subaru instead of doing a TDI swap?

Really

Looking good man. Just got back from a 1500+ mile trip around Florida. Think I'm going to start an on-going RR/blog to load pics, stories, and what not.

I have about 10 boxes of parts sitting around waiting to get installed, but I keep leaving for trips or work. Maybe February I'll tackle it.


-Josh

That's pretty cool! Thanks for the feedback!

Okay, this is cool

A thorough guy like you has probably already thought of this, but with those tight clearances between the starter terminal and the frame be REALLY sure you consider things like engine roll and/or mount deflection due to suspension or etc.etc.etc. That looks like awfully tight clearance and you need to think about ways that starter terminal could get closer during operating the vehicle.

Disclaimer; I have no idea of the engine mounts, where the starter's mounted, where/which way engine roll will occur, how the suspension might allow twist in a crossditch condition etc. on this project and engine/powertrain assembly. But dealing with roll and clearances is an important part of my "day job" so I noticed it and thought I'd mention it.

Yeah I've thought about that as well, I think there will be sufficient clearance (I opened it up a bit more after that pic was taken), I'll keep a close eye on it and if it is contacting I'll open it up some more. I may route the cable to the other side which will gain a little more clearance as well.

Hodakaguy

Decided to switch gears a little and start working on the front end. I need to get the new radiator installed, hoses ran etc before I can test run the engine so I decided to just do the whole front end now.

First I'll install the oil dip stick before heading to the front.

The RMW dip stick to go with their shortened oil pan.




Fitted up to the pan.




Top view.




Ok front end up on Jack stands...let the fun begin.




Here we go




Dust shield looks a little crusty, I don't think your suppose to see through them




To remove the springs I'll use a KTC spring compressor. If you've never used one of these they are the ticket! Sooooo much safer and easier than the small clamp style compressors plus it doesn't screw up the powder coating on the new springs! The kit comes with shoes for several size springs, it's a little spendy but it's cheaper than a smashed face from a cheap compressor slipping off the spring






Compressing the spring. You can see kroil over spray everywhere




Time to remove the axle




Starting to look bare.




Using a puller to push out the axle.




Driver side components.






Time to start on the passenger side. The drivers side retaining bolt stripped...lets see how the passenger side goes.




Nope...It stripped out as well.




Bolt head drilled out, you can just see the line where it's separating in two.




Using the puller to finish separating the stripped bolt.




Separated. I'll get the rest of the bolt out later.




Rust from the dust shield....I'll replace them with Stainless Steel units.




Hodakaguy

You have the bolt drilled centered from the looks of it. I've had great success removing similarly drilled bolts by using a left hand drill bit. Just make sure its smaller diameter than your threads.

Love your syncro build thread. I have lad several early aircooled vanagons, it was long enough ago that I remember it fondly.

A hand held impact driver works well on those fasteners.

Big envy on your spring compressor .


Enjoying the progress, it's going to be a nice machine when you are finished.

Mike

Any updates? I love this thread!

Time to get back on the VW project, been messing with other hobbies but I want to get the bus rolling before spring so it's time to get busy.

Radiator removed.






Laying out the coolant pipes, time to figure out their layout. Would have been nice if they were supplied with stickers showing which pipe goes where.




New SA radiator.




New rad back in the bus.




Steering rack out.




Time to remove the stuck rotor bolts. Drilled through the broken bolt from the back side, the drill bit spun them right out.






Time to remove the CV joints from the axles. The inner joints came right off, the outer joints were a different story. They have an internal cir-clip that holds them onto the shaft, in both cases the cir-clip was up tight against one side of the CV, I could only get one side to expand and couldn't get it to fully release.

Since I'm installing new CV joints and I got tired of messing with it I used a skinny wheel and chisel to remove them quickly




Axles fresh out of the bead blaster.




Removing the bearing race from the hubs






More to come.....

Hodakaguy

Tonight's Progress.

Stock lights removed.




Wiring in Relays for the high and low beams. Should provide more voltage to the lights and let the high/low switch last longer.




Relays wired in, they are sitting on the top right of the fuse panel




Wires soldered onto the new head light plugs, and plugged in to the new light.






The middle lights are a little tricky. You need to temporarily attach the grill to locate where the lights need to go, then mark and drill new holes for the assy. They also need to be adjusted vertically so you need to bend the metal tabs till they are centered properly. Here the new locations are marked and ready to drill.




Old headlights....




And new headlights.....






I really like the look of the round headlights, plus I've read where they put out better usable light. Now that I know everything fits and works I will take it apart one more time, seal all the connections and paint/rust proof the new holes that were drilled.

Lots more to come....

Hodakaguy

Beautiful work...as always