To Aragon in Spain

;-)

We know very well that the refugio-owner is not representative at all ;-)

There ar so many countries we still would want to visit, but the problem is: every time we think: why not Spain? there are many places we want to see again, to explore in more detail, and it always worthwhile.

The following morning, we explore the streets of Tarazona, in search of a bar, for a "desayuno", some breakfast.


We find a bar that serves coffee, and one of the customers has this T-shirt with the number of Pedrosa, one of my favourites (because he's incredibly tough to return again and again, because he can really ride like an alien, and because he has to find out everything completely on his own: his weight makes that rules of thumb of others don't apply to him).


We did once explore the Jewish and Moorish quarter of Tarazona, on a hill, next to the river. Now, we explore the other side of the river. This is the cathedral. Closed: a restauration is going on.
But that's not the only reason. Tarazona has lots of "Mudejar" buildings: buildings by Moorish (Muslim) architects, very beautiful. But some people of the town don't want too many of those buildings open for the public, the woman of the tourist information tells us.
Maybe it's because now, the wine-makers are the ones who bring in the money, and hence have the power, and when Tarazona would become touristy, it would be the horeca?


This is the tower of the cathedral, and you can clearly see that it looks like a minaret.


The bullring is very special too: it's a sandy round "square", enclosed with houses. Those houses are inhabited. When there is some show on the square (I don't know if there still are bull fights here), the inhabitants have the best places!


This is a view of the Jewish and Moorish quarters, on the hill. You can surely see the beauty of Tarazona!


Then we get on the bike. On one bike, because we will return this evening.
First goal is the Monastery of Veruela.
When we arrive, it's lunch time, and there is a pleasant and well-visited restaurant just opposite the monastery.


This is the monastery at the outside. You can see that it is built like a fort.


Inside, everything is bare: here too, the people in the surroundings were oppressed, and lived very poorly while the monastery got richer and richer. Some day, there was revenge...

Now, those splendid rooms are used for exhibitions.


In some places, you can see there were fresco's on the wall.


One of the best places in all monasteries is the "claustro", the inner courtyard. Here as well.
The gallery on the second floor has been copied on the Ayuntamiento, the town hall of Tarazona!


It's strange to see such a somber church. Churches in Spain are often full of colour, images, paintings and statues. Here: nothing.


We ride through the region, called the Moncayo. Behind us, you see Añon de Moncayo. You see cranes for building houses, and the strange thing is: the only road to and from this village is the road you see! extremely narrow.
In the village itself, the streets were very steep, and it was difficult to see what the main street was. I can't understand how those cranes got there!


We enter Los Fayos, where we once thought we could see a church built in the rock. We now want to find out what it is.
As you see, Los Fayos lies at the feet of a very steep rock.


We climb through alleys and stairs, and arrive at the site. What we thought was a church, is something else: the remnants of a cave.
Once, there was a castle, a castillo, on top of the rock. There were caves, so the inhabitants of the castle could go to Los Fayos without anybody noticing.


This is Los Fayos. You can only come here by stairs. Imagine having to bring a washing machine to such a house!


The sun sets as we ride on. The colours are wonderful.


Of course, the SuperTenere has to pose.


We then take the road to the Santuario de Moncayo. We once had lunch there.
The road ascends, up into the mountain, and after a while, becomes unpaved.
Especially the last stretch is steep and narrow, and you would have an enormous view at daytime.

The restaurant is closed: it's open only for lunch.
When you are here: it's a great spot to have lunch!


Back in Tarazona, we find the perfect Bar.
We eat here, have a beer, and a talk with the very friendly owner.
A bar in Spain: the best place to hang out during the evening!

Tomorrow, we will ride on.
More foto's on http://www.sylviastuurman.nl/stories/aragon/dag13/

Wonderful ride report. Thank you.

The next day, we leave Tarazona. Here is our hostal, Hostal Palacete de los Arcadianos. It is housed in a big building housing many families, which gives you the feeling that you are an inhabitant of Tarazona, for a short while.


We take the N122 to the west, and the road is impressive at first.


From the moment we enter Castilla y Leon, the landscape changes: no rocks anymore; vast fields which will be bare and dry during sommer.


We turn left to Agreda, and the same happens: rocks during the first stretch, and then flat and straight.


When we fill up the tanks in Agreda, two other motorcycle riders arrive. They are Americans, they tell, and have no clue where they are.
At first I understood that they were looking for Madrid, but they told me later, by e-mail, that it was the other way around: they were escaping Madrid. In that case, they were riding in the right direction.


The road is straight and boring, so I take a side-road, to the left (the east, that is).
It's the CL101, and it seems to bring us to the mountains.


It's a very pleasant road, and the funny thing is, we encounter the same group of motorcycle riders that we saw in the Pyrenees, a few days ago.


This is Beraton, which, as you see, doesn't have a growing number of inhabitants...


The road now becomes very very beautiful.


Then, after a blind corner, the landscape opens, and we see a ravine before us.
The road will take us to the bottom of that ravine.


Descending into a ravine means hairpin after hairpin.
Above us, the Vultures soar.


This is Purujosa. You see how the villages blend in with the surroundings.


We cross the river Isuela.


And find a great spot for a pause.


This Griffon Vulture was sitting very close by, all the time we had our pause. We didn't scare him or her at all.


Then, on the road again. You see what a splendid road it is.


After a while, the rocks disappeared. Instead, we rode through rolling, bare hills, corner after corner.


The road stopped at the A-1503, which we took to the left (the east).


Here, we ride through Jarque de Moncayo, with its castle.


In Illueca, we see this palace-like building on top of a hill, and I remember that there is a hospederia in that building. It seems a good place for a lunch, so we ride to it.


The building is beautiful, and the lunch is excellent (and incredibly cheap as well).
We tell each other that this is a place to remember, to book a room here, on a future trip. Then, we both have the same idea: why not stay here for this night?

It proves an excellent idea.
The name of the Hospederia is Hospederia de Papa Luna.
Papa Luna: Luna is the family name of this pope.
Once, in the history of the Catholic church, there were two popes; one in Rome, and one in Avignon. The one in Avignon was recognized by the whole world, except for Italy; the one in Rome only by Italy. Papa Luna was the last pope of Avignon: during his "pope-ship", the pope of Rome became the "real" pope, and he was from that moment on, called the anti-pope. Papa Luna.
This palace was the place were he was born.


We stay here, admire the magnificent views (there are photo's of it on the next day I think), take a bath and a rest, and spend the evening in the bar of the hospederia.
The bar is, I have the impression, the "place to be" for Illueca. It is very lively, and we feel as if we belong to the people here.
We have some conversations, in our broken Spanish, and it turns out that the cook (who is very very good; the food here is extremely tasty!), from Morocco, has lived in the Netherlands for two years. He speaks English, and one of the other people even better. This makes conversation far easier.

For anybody who thinks about going to Spain:
this is a very beautiful region. It's relatively close by. And this Hospederia is great value for money. I recommend it with all my heart.

More on http://www.sylviastuurman.nl/stories/aragon/dag14/

I don't know where are you now, but anyway I'm in Pamplona and know very well all the area.

Let me know if you need any suggestions,

Javier

Wow!!
What a lovely report, gourgeous bikes and scenery, awseome

Hello Javier,
This is a ride report about a trip we made in 2010. But we come to Spain often, so, maybe, some day in the future..!

This is our view, the following morning, from our room.


And this is where we had breakfast.


We ride on, to the east, and the weather is... difficult.


Here in Codos, we wanted to turn left, but the road was completely blocked. We couldn't get through, not even through the village.


So we had to ride straight on, and we came on this long and straight road, with dark clouds gathering.


Here a donkey is practising to become an Osborne bull once!


Is it a rock? No, it's a Castillo! The Castillo of Langa de Castillo.


Our road becomes a real Tenere- and SuperTenere-road.


It's a great road!


At some point, we begin to see open mines, like this on on the left. We see lots of them.


Here, near Huesa del Comun, we see the ruins of the Castle of Peñaflor, high on a ridge.


Then, wherever we look, those strangely coloured rocks.


After a while, following the A1401, we see an enormous open pit mine in front of us, near Ariño.


After these mines the road stays perfect.


Albalete del Obispo


In Hijar, we find this road restaurant with a strange name...


Then, not very long after Samper de Calande,


we ride through the vast plain of the Ebro.


We cross the Ebro near Caspe.


For a while, there are hills (and sheep) on the A2410.


And then the road turns straight again...


From time to time, the road has a surprise, but often, it turns back into straight again.


Here we ride under the Canal Aragon Catalunya , and after the canal, we are in the mountains: corners!


Corners and weird landscapes (mark the antenna behind the rock).


We have ridden for a long time, and eventually, on the N230, the SuperTenere stops: no gas!
Of course, my Tenere comes to the rescue. It is far more economic than the SuperTenere, and could easily ride on for 100 kilometers or more.

Ernst takes it, finds a gas station, and brings some of the precious fluid to the tank of the Tenere.
It did a lousy 21.7 kilometers to the liter: nothing compared to my Tenere ;-)


Now, we are at the feet of the Pyenerees: views and corners, and perfect tarmac.


This is the Col de Montllobar. Everything is perfect.


We start to look out for a hostal. In Pobla de Segur, we don't find anything, but there is this lovely ayuntamiento: Casa Mauri.


We ride into the Pyrenees, with a setting sun.


Then, in Baro, we spot this hotel: Fonda Farré.
The owners are very friendly, very very friendly.


We are the only guests at dinner, and Jaime makes us delicious food.


This is him, and if you would like to taste Spanish food at its best, you can do it here!

More on http://www.sylviastuurman.nl/stories/aragon/dag15/

Excellent ride report and piccies! Thank you for showing such beautiful people and places ...or vice versa
-zie egret.

We leave Fonda Farre after having promised to come bacj one time.
We ride to the south: in Gerri de la Sal (photo), there sould be, according to our map, a narrow side road that we would like to explore.


We find the road (I have to turn in Gerri de la Sal and ride back, because the turn the road takes is extremely sharp), and the roads climbs rapidly, and is glorious.


After a blind corner, I have this close encounter.
I think the driver was taken by surprise as well! The photo shows that he had to turn the steer suddenly to the right to avoid me: he did'nt reckon there would be anyone on the road but him...


After this beautiful side-road, we take the C-13.


In Tremp, we turn to the left. This building in the back is the Basilica de Mare de Deu de Valldeflors, which shows the name-giving talent of the Spaniards!


The C1412 is long and straight, but you can see the mountains where we're heading for.


Then we turn left. Here is the Sant Miquel de Conques, high on its hill. The village it belongs to lies at the other side of the hill.


This sign makes a very good promise...


And the sign is right: it's one great corner after another.


With great views of the Pyrenees.


Somewhere along this road were painted zebra's.


Great landscape.


Perfect place for a rest.


The corners don't stop, even when we come lower.


The Congost de Tresponts, to the north.


Here, we are passed by my other bike, the Derbi Mulhacen, very rare, in the wild!


We then ride the same stretch of the N260 that we took earlier during this trip.


And in the end, we take the C-13 to the north.


After a while, we see the first hairpins of the Port de la Bonaigua.


We climb, hairpin after hairpin.


There are horses on the road.


When we go down again, the views are superb.


We are now in the Val d'Aran, and find a place to eat and sleep in Salardu.

What a great report. Thanks!!!

Actually, I'm going to the Pyrenees in two weeks time. Any chance you'd post your route on a google map? I wouldn't go beyond your route.

Awseome report, lovely photos and fab commentary. In one of the photos, you explained how the photos were taken, with left hand holding the camera, is that it?

We have the route in kml, but it's huge: we'll have to adjust it to be able to post it in google maps. I'll try, but I don't knwo if I can do it on a short notice!

When we wake up, the roads are wet and there are low clouds.


No problem!
We are not in a hurry to leave Spain, so we wait a while.


This is Vielha: the last place to fill our tanks with cheap Spanish gas.


We climb into France, using the Col de Portillon. Wet...


with trucks...


and bicycle riders.
But it's a beautiful Col.


The border is on the top.


And then you descend into France.


In France, the sun starts to shine.


There are old fortified towns like Cazères.


When the clouds start gathering again, there is a rainbow.


At one moment, the rainbow seemed to end next to us, near the road.


Sun, dark clouds and a patchwork landscape: a good combination.


It gets dark...


We find an auberge in Requista, where the owners try to make us forget our longing for Spain: thay bring us food long after French dinner-time: French-style tapas (fromage et crudité's).

More on http://www.sylviastuurman.nl/stories/aragon/dag17/


The next day, we come through French old towns like Espalion,


or Laguiole (the town of the knives).


There are beautiful roads (here, we are in St Bonnet de Condat), but it's difficult to fully enjoy them when you are on your way home!


But who could resist a road like this? We totally forgot that we were returning.


Symbollically, just at the point from where we would take the faster, bigger roads, Ernst forgot to put his foot on the ground at a stop, causing both his and my bike to fall down.
This whole trip I had done my best *not* to fall down at stops, which is a big task, considering my short legs and the height of the Tenere. I was angry, and the photo shows it very well ;-)


From then on: fast roads. Fast roads means: camera's...


We encountered many motorcycle riders.
At some point, it was as if all motorcycle riders from France were here.


This was the reason ;-)
It was very much fun, to wave to so many fellow motorcycle riders!


Hour by hour, we were getting closer to home.
This is Nevers.
The rest of our trip was just getting home...

I would never want to miss the ride to the destination: the landscapes becoming more and more unfamiliar. But the ride in the opposite way, when everything starts looking more like at home, often feels like a duty: I often long for teleportation on the way home.
We have to find a way to choose a very different route for the way back, through the Alps, Switzerland and Germany, for instance.

But anyhow, Aragon is a fantastic destination!

More on http://www.sylviastuurman.nl/stories/aragon/dag18/

Please don't go to any trouble. I'll just stick to the general area and seek out specific roads you've mentioned in this ride report. The C13 looks like it'll be a lot of fun

Thanks again for the report.

Great roads:

- The GI-402 / B-402 (through La Pobla de Lillet)
- The B-400 (through Saldes)
- especially ther L511 (Coll de Boixols)
- and yes, the C-13 (from Tremp to the west).

But you can't go wrong, in that area ;-)

And the Col d'Ares was real nice by being o so different a great road with the feeling of a hidden smugglers route

wonderfull places and good/simple writting style.total=excellent!!!
keep travelling both of you....

That was a wonderful Sunday afternoon diversion.

Brilliant RR & kudos to the photographer for taking such great pictures one handed while riding. Bravo to the both of you.