New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by The Jerk, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10,040
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    Nice bike, good luck with it!

    And the faster green one too. :D
  2. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10,040
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    Here's a question for the owners of the 2000 models.

    We know Kawasaki made some changes in the second year. If you've ridden a 2001 model, were the changes/improvements noticeable in everyday riding?

    If so, in what way(s)?

    Just curious in case I ever need to get another one.
  3. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
    Oddometer:
    19,047
    Location:
    SWFL WNC
    I've had both the 2000 and 2001 W650 and IMHO I would buy either one if I needed another W650. I happen to like the color of the 2001 better but no big deal.

    I would be hard pressed to tell the difference (while riding) between the two except for the better ribbed seat on the 2001 not that it is so great. That can be fixed on the 2000 if needed.

    If I remember right the 2001 has a little larger front axle, about half a degree more rake, and thinner tank pads.
    dbyker likes this.
  4. OaklandStrom

    OaklandStrom Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,624
    Location:
    East Bay
    Fast is not how I'd describe it. I wasn't keeping up with Wee Stroms unless the road was *just right*. Bumps, high speed or tight corners involved me watching bikes in front of me get a lot smaller.

    Tons of fun, just not the right bike for the conditions I was in.
  5. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,147
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    A couple of suspension upgrades help. Never be a Gixxer, but I never wanted one of those anyway, :lol3
  6. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10,040
    Location:
    Cin City, OH

    I think there were a couple more, been a while since I last saw the review or the brochure with the differences, but one was that they also changed the angle of the gauges for easier viewing.

    Good to know, thanks.
  7. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10,040
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    Fast is relative. Had the other bikes been, say, Honda CT90's, you'd have been the speed demon. :D

    Unless you were off road, of course. :lol3
  8. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
    Oddometer:
    19,047
    Location:
    SWFL WNC
    Oh yeah, I forgot about the change in the gauges mount.

    Now if the W800 ever enters the picture in the USA, that is a horse of a different color.
    Not that the W800 is that much superior to the W650 but it would be new and finding a nice W650 is getting harder to do.
    Took me a long time to find a good low mileage unmodified W650 last year.
  9. OaklandStrom

    OaklandStrom Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,624
    Location:
    East Bay
    What are people doing for suspension upgrades?
    And where do I find a bolt-on 6th gear? :evil
  10. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,147
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    Well, you're out of luck on the aux 6th, but you could put on a one-tooth larger countershaft sprocket and gain 300-400 rpm in 5th. Easier cruising, a touch less acceleration.

    I put Race Tech Emulators and springs in the front, and Hagons on the rear. If I did it again, I'd probably put IKON's on the back, or maybe spring for top of the line rear shocks. Race Tech, Olins, etc. Frightfully expensive but really good shocks. (Put Olin's on the GS. Huge difference).

    Also have a Superbrace on the front forks. I think they help some, but the fork upgrades should be higher priority. I also raised the front forks in the triple trees about half an inch. That didn't cost anything!

    Good rubber is a must too. If your bike has original tires on it, they'll be hard as a rock, with an equal lack of traction. Not to mention the dry rot!! Quite a variety of opinions on tires (like rear ends, everybody's got one . . . ). I have Metzler Lasertechs and think they're OK, but nothing special. Next time think I'll go for the Bridgestone BT-45s.
  11. bikersnotz

    bikersnotz Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    49
    Location:
    Montpellier, France
    I've been considering the progressive 970 series. I've sent an inquiry email but I think they are on vacation this week. If I hear something good back I'll be sure to share.

    Also ordered a set of progressive front replacement springs. I'm not sure if the emulators are better, but I have only basic tools so I'm limited.
  12. OaklandStrom

    OaklandStrom Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,624
    Location:
    East Bay
    The tires aren't original, but are at least 5 years old.
    It's my wife's bike, and she's not going to wear out the tires, unless she drastically increases her yearly mileage. So, I'm thinking of a really good tire for any weather condition (unpredictable rain around here). I don't really care how long it lasts, as long as it sticks well. Open to suggestions.
  13. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    80
    Hello everyone! I'm about to change the oil and filter and I read earlier in this thread that the filter cover is sometimes an issue. I was looking at this filter:

    http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=KN-204

    It says that it fits a 2000 W650, but I just wanted to check to see if anyone had any recommendations. Also, I know this is beat to death on loads of other forums, but are you guys just running regular 10-30W or 10-40W non synthetic? I'm at 4700 miles.

    Haven't ridden since May due to a painter taking 13 weeks longer than initially quoted!!! I think I'll finally be getting it back this weekend.
  14. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
    Oddometer:
    19,047
    Location:
    SWFL WNC
    A bible on motorcycle oil filters is at
    http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html
    The 5 list is for the W650
    From That Site:
    "W650 2000-2001 [5]

    [5]
    These Oil Filters
    have 20 x 1.5mm threads,
    14 psi by-pass valve,
    anti-drain back valve,
    2.3" O.D. gasket
    2.5" to 3.5" long.
    If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters." Note that this is his recommendation.

    Pick one of his recommended ones. I use the 3.5" filter and to retain the chrome cover (which isn't necessary) I use longer bolts.
    For oil I use Shell Rotella-Synthetic-5W-40 but there are many opinions and choices.
    dbyker likes this.
  15. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,147
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    Roger Rotella synthetic. I use it too.

    I spring for genuine grade-A number1 Quacker filters from my LBS.
  16. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10,040
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    I elected to forgo the filter cover in the belief that it was blocking cooling air from reaching the filter. Probably my imagination, but it sounds good. :D

    As far as lubricant, Castrol Motorcycle oil, 20W50 in the tropical summers of the NE.
  17. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
    Oddometer:
    19,047
    Location:
    SWFL WNC
    Speedo66,
    I have often thought about leaving the chrome cover off but I would probably never be able to find it again.

    I wonder if these wrap around aluminum finned oil filter coolers would help cool the oil? I do have an oil temp gauge but it would be hard to get a good test.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/quD4fs8RWFSb7cuP1CaFNdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OT_Aq776iKo/UC2TzvXMVaI/AAAAAAAABHw/5yS5zr5tsaU/s800/%255BUNSET%255D.jpg" height="211" width="239" /></a>
  18. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10,040
    Location:
    Cin City, OH
    I just stuck the filter cover in the same bag as the other items I removed, i.e., the high handlebars, the original grips, the tail light, turn signals, etc.

    I'm assuming the fins on those coolers would help in heat transfer, at least the natural colored one. :lol3
  19. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
    Oddometer:
    19,047
    Location:
    SWFL WNC
    Yep, I got all that stuff around here some where or there (SWFL or WNC).:rofl

    The W650 is such a sweet bike to ride.
  20. Burninator

    Burninator Zed's dead

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    300
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    Recently bought a near new 2000 W650. I love this bike! However, there are a few things I'm working on improving. I ride to work, but my commute is under 2 miles. I know, I know. I should ride a bicycle, run, etc. Screw that. That's what a motorcycle is for! Much more fun. However, this bike is cold blooded, as I'm sure you all know. 5 minute long warm ups with full choke, all while the bike makes a huge racket in my garage. And it's summer!

    I've found a relatively cheap way to greatly reduce warm up time. First step I did was to turn the fuel air screws out 3 full turns. My bike is completely stock.

    Second step was to purchase a Model 9 125 volt, 120 watt engine heater from Wolverine ($53.95). http://www.wolverineheater.com/product-p/9.0.htm. This model just barely fits, with the cord attachment point sticking off the back side of the engine casing. No problem, I just used the supplied high temp silicone to fill the gap. This sucker heats the entire engine, from top to bottom. No more cold starts. I just plug it in over night, and in the morning, start the bike with full choke as I put on my helmet and gloves. No more bucking and sputtering. Hid the pig tail under the seat.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]