New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Big sharp hits like that can damage steering head bearings, so try to get the front wheel off the ground and check for any notches or clicks or play in the steering.

Also your forks may be out of alignment. If you know how to check this you should or have the dealer check.

The offset is different because the forks are different. I think the steering will be sharper- you may or may not want that.

Also if you are running any steering damper, I have been told that it not work on the SMC triple trees. I'd love to know whether it does or not.

Problem is we do not know what alloy they are using.

You can easily triple the strength of a part with an appropriate alloy. Pretty easy to jump from 25,000 to 75,000 psi (707x T6) with an appropriated selection.

Drop forging will add up to 15% and extra life.

Heat treatment is critical to many aluminium alloy.

Paul Jr

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I've been trying to get in touch with the nearest KTM dealer who is in a place called Boe, about a 60km ride from me, but no luck so far. Maybe Google translate isn't so great - pas de fumée française.

Wheels: Anybody tried these. I'm wondering if they're stronger. I've seen some Excel wheels (Wheels with hubs machined the lightest on the market. Wheel with strapping, hub and spokes. - That's the google translation), for 369 Euros but I don't know anything about them. Will I have to get bearings also? I've never bought a new wheel before.

If that is the ST-X, that is the one I have. I replaced the OEM 1.85 with the DID ST-X 1.6. Used same tire as OEM. I just bought the rim and used existing spokes and hub and relaced.

http://www.didchain.com/LXSXDirtstar.html

The stock rims are 36 spoke rather than 32 spoke, so if you are re-using the original hub, you need a 36 spoke rim. If you are using a complete wheel, then the number of spokes is less of an issue. You need only be concerned about axle diameter, hub width, spacers, and rotor mount.

Yes a good point. We have a tool in the lab at work that will tell the material makeup. Might be able to sneak a piece in

Hi I'm on the lookout for a new bike and at the moment it looks like the 690 with RR evo 2 tanks is at the top of the list. I will be buying secondhand so are the any year models I should avoid or be looking out for ? I see a lot of you guys are changing your exhaust. Is this just to get away from the CAT ? If so has anyone removed the CAT from the OE and welded it back up ? (I did this on my x challenge and it worked great) if I did this would the bike need to be remapped ? ( on my BMW it never) . Are the any known faults I should be looking out for when going to see 690 ? What are they like to work on ? Iv never had a KTM so it's all new to me.
Sorry for so many questions
Thanks kito

Just took my new to me 08 out for a shakedown run. Holy crap that's fun. One problem is a leaky gas cap. Maybe its all the wheelies

What is the best solution for that?

Buy a KLR if you need a solution for the wheelies.
Rally Raid & KTM Twins has a solution for the fuel cap.

I've owned a couple KLRs.. I don't think I'll be revisiting that any time soon. This thing is fun!

The main reason for exhaust swap is that the stock boat anchor gets so hot it's regularly referred to as nuclear. It's not safe and it's heavy.

Get a real 690CC bike, swap the can and swap the pleated filter for the UNI twin pod and you'll be ace!

No need to bother with a remap. It'll run like a scalded ape just the way it is.

Dirty

Yer that's what was what was happening on my x challenge. But I'm cheep so just removed about 1KG of unwanted crap from inside the exhaust and it then ran a lot cooler.

The 690 is a thing of beauty. She is like a fine whiskey.. you don't mix her with diet coke. Wings and FMF both make beautiful looking and sounding high quality exhaust for not a lot of money. Call it your birthday present to yourself or something. I promise you will be happier then bastardizing the stock can for the sake of saving a few bucks.

I have a piece of thickish plate glass which I keep specifically to align forks. You'll have to disassemble the plastic slider guards and remove the front wheel.

While you have the axle out, spin the inner/male tubes around inside the female uppers. The inner parts should spin perfectly on their own axis. If they describe a "cone" when rotated (i.e. the ends swing around as you rotate them) then they are bent.

To perfectly align the forks, lay the plate glass across the exposed inner slider and check the tubes for parallelism: if the plate glass rocks corner-to-corner, then the tubes aren't parallel.

Loosen the bottom triple clamp pinch bolts, and slightly loosen (leave snug but not tight) the top pinch bolts. Adjust the alignment buy turning the bars to the steering stop and giving the top clamp a tap with the rubber mallet. Tighten the bots and recheck with the plate glass.

I invented this process, and it has impressed some suspension tuners with the ease and accuracy of adjustment. Of course, you need to buy a piece of glass, which is a slight PITA. You may refer to it as The Roadracer Al Procedure.

That is indeed brilliant! They would call that Jugaad in India.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jugaad

Thanks Roadracer Al. This place continues to amaze.

Love that.