Klay, I assumed normal "Colorado" geography..... The roads climb pretty high here, but you don't spend much time up that high (the road up to the top of Pikes Peak being a perfect example). I was thinking this guy might be up at 13,000ft for a while...... I've had mine "sustained" at 10,000ft w no probs. Just looking for input on higher...... Chuck
Has anyone mounted one on a stock DR? I have a few ideas in my head just need to go get some parts. I spent about an hour last night just thinking of different options. If you are unfamiliar with these, you can purchase them here. At $5 it is hard to make anything this nice. http://www.agrisupply.com/operator-manual-canister/p/67670/
My rule for tieing down bikes on a trailer is the same as tieing luggage to the bike on a trip, two separate systems, so if either fails, the load will not be lost. For trailering, two straps up front off the triple trees or handle bars if necessary, compressing the front suspension; two straps on the rear, compressing the rear suspension. Either pair will hold the bike upright. For luggage on the bike for road or off road, two rock straps in X pattern and two rock straps or bungies in parallel on the far ends. In 48 years of riding I've watched valuable cameras and other items fall off bikes and bounce down the road. The camera bounced over my head. I've never lost an item and don't intend to.
two of those or two of these would store nearly all my break down tools. These have a neoprene seal.http://www.agrisupply.com/MANUAL+CANISTER+SML+W%2f+NEOPRENE+SEAL/p/70111/
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <wunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Tabla normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Hi there Chuck and Klay. It was my first above 12000 continious long ride so I did think about it, but, nope, I decided to try everything as it was, in part so I could later compare the before and after. I started out of La Paz, to Oruro and then unto the smaller mining towns. There was a noticeable decrease in throttle response making it a little harder to pass larger vehicles up in the mountain passes (aprox. 14000 feet) but it wasnt a big issue since there wasnt much traffic anyway. (Also, I weigh around 185 pounds and was carrying an additional 25-30 pounds). So, yeah, I'd fully agree with your findings and am keeping the stock jets as they are. J.
Good deal. My plugs are a bit dark with sea level jets and constant operation at 7,000ft. I'll leave the jets alone based on your feedback. Note that I have had to swap to a "hotter" plug this winter. As these bikes are recent purchases, we haven't had them out over too big of range of elevations. That'll change come spring..... Have a fantastic trip!!!!!! Chuck
I'm solicting suggestions for making my DR200 as quiet as possible. I know it already is quiet in stock form, but I use the bike to get close to critters for purposes of photography, so I don't want to spook the wary ones. For example, I was able to get to within 20 feet of a pronghorn just before the snow closed things down here. From what I can tell, the major sources of noise is exhaust, intake and squeaks from moving parts. While a water cooled engine might be quieter, I think I'll let Suzuki do that. Anyone else working on the sound of silence?
You could try running a stock muffler from a larger bike or try adding a smaller muffler before the stock muffler.Don't know what would fit.That's all the off the wall idears I got.
Tool tube: My tool tube is the standard black pipe seen on most KLRs. I didn't want it down in front of the skid plate so I have it on the left side. It's a bit gawdly looking but it works well and is out of the line of fire when running rough roads. In it I keep my rolled up benchmark atlas and inside the roll is my tire irons. I wanted my benchmark somewhere it would be easy to get to and yet stay dry. If it was a little shorter and mounted at the right height is can look balance from the back view with the muffler on the other side. The guy on my bike is Sasquatch from http://www.sasquatchrider.com/products.html . He did a seminar at last summer's Hells Canyon gathering and used my bike for the demo because he could easily throw it around. :huh We decided my bike would spend some quality time with him this winter so he could dial in the suspension for me. Since there isn't much in the way of aftermarket things for DR200s he will be fabricating some of what is needed to do what he wants to do. I'm excited to see what the outcome is. I enjoy this bike so much and if he can make it ever better I'm all for it. I did have to throw another challenge in there for him. I want better suspension but the bike can't get any taller not even a fraction of an inch. He took on the challenge.
Had this light guard on my DR650 and thought I'd see if it would line up with the DR200. Perfect. (no affiliation) https://tciproductsusa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=565 $43.95
Hi everyone, I am fairly new to riding and definetly havent done any mechanics before. I have a 2010 DR200. I love my bike and as every newbie does, I placed my bike on the ground a little suddenly and unexpectedly when I stopped on uneven ground.... So consequently I broke the end off my clutch lever. I have the replacement now and want to know if someone could give me step by step instructions on how to do the replacement. Even better if someone has pictures or can scan the instructions for me. Thanks
Easy job..... Take the nut off the bottom of the bolt, pull the bolt out the top. Now pull the lever away from the mount (cable still attached). You'll have to rotate the handle about 90 degrees clockwise so the cable lines up w the slot in the bottom of the lever. Now you can pull the lever "up" and off the cable. When you put it back together, over tightening the nut can cause the lever to bind in the mount. Chuck
Please purchase a service manual.It is worth it. This should be the same for 2010 models as well. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PN6I6K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=manicycl-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002PN6I6K">Suzuki Factory Service Manual / 1996-2009 DR200SE / Pt # 99500-41141-03E</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=manicycl-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002PN6I6K" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />
You need to remove the clutch switch on the bottom of the perch before removing the lever, so it does not get broken. Re-install it last.
I've replaced the clutch lever numerous times and have never removed the clutch switch in the process. As long as you rotate the lever back in you're just fine.
