I placed my order Wednesday evening and the postman delivered my lights Saturday, just in time for me to play with them over the Labor Day weekend. I also bought the LED flashlight, which is very cool --
Just got my second order, quickly and efficiently. Great lights. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
any ideas on mounting a pair to the forks of the 08 KLR? could i beg a rotary switch that could handle 4 60's ? even better if the knob could come off so i could put the box behind my dash plate
Did you try the flashlight at night? Thanks for your business You can mount them on the lower fork leg by removing the stock side reflectors. Or pick up a set of turn signal relocators for a 41mm fork. As much as I would like to sell you 4 model 60s, you just don't need 4! Unless you are wearing your welding helmet. Please try a pair and if find you need more light we can talk.
Hi Sanjoh.. looking forward to hearing back from you!! Can't wait to try out my mount ideas...... just need to find out if the total throw for the 60 model 'flood' is longer than the 30 model 'spot'. I was thinking one of each (1 mounted as spot on top fairing of my KLRto give maximum distance, the other where my orig fender was mounted so it will turn with bars) ..BUT if the total throw of the 60 flood is just as far..then I will spring for 2 of those with a rotary dimmer. Thanks :)
I have a question about the available mounts: You offer a Heavy Duty bracket: And a crash bar mount Do you need both to use the crashbar mount? I know the light comes with the "standard" bracket, but do you need a bracket and a mount? Thanks. PS: I wish the rotary dimmer knob came off too. A panel mount would be very nice.
Email reply sent. The model 60 has more throw due to having over twice the lumen output as the model 40. You do not need both. The crashbar mount is intended to provide a platform to mount lights on a round tube, the heavy duty bracket is an upgrade to the standard bracket which is an integral part of the light.
Those are my pictures above. I just returned from my first night ride- HID's 55W low and high and 2- M60's to fill in the other areas. I wired it so in low beam the M60's adjust and in highbeam they max blast. John did a great job of immediately getting back to me with any questions I had. Definitely recommend!
Just came back from an impromptu saddle sore ride and the 60s are the bomb. A grounding issue took them out for a spell and even with dual hid low beams it was dark. These lights are not to be missed. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
The bracket I made rests along the fork leg, 4000+ miles and no movement, no bouncing. This is a road bike with a sidecar, so no washboard dirt roads encountered. Now if you want to talk about tightening the pivot screw on the light bracket........ :eek1
Wouldn't it work better to flip the mount around, so the center of gravity of the body of the light is directly over the mount rather than in front? It would have less leverage on the pivot screw that way.
G'day Sanjoh, Back in October of last year I purchased a set of model 44's off you. Only got to fit them to my bike in Feb of this year. For the first couple of months they worked fine. My bike is a 2010 R1200gs. The lights are fitted to a PC8 Fuse block with a IQ-170 from Skeene Products and a mini switch from Cyclenutz which is used to turn the lights on. I sent you a post a couple of months ago regarding the flickering in one of the lights and you told me not to worry. Well a week ago the other light went out totally and the other lights flicker is getting worse. Decided to pull the tank of last week and check all the connections again. Everything checked out fine. Disconnected the mini switch and ran the lights through the IQ-170 same problem. Disconnected the IQ-170 and ran the lights connected to the battery same problem. I understand from your website the lights had a limited warranty and I am well outside that time frame. I am more annoyed that other people are having a good run from them. I suppose Chinese manafactured items can have variable quality. Only three weeks ago I had to replace a ballast on my 35w HID from DDM which I have had on for the same time as the modell 44's. Sanjoh, I don't no what to do here. Do I purchase another set and take the risk??. Can I send them back to you to have a look at or do I bin them and go for a set of Clearwaters. Any help would be much appreciated Sanjoh. Simon.
Hi Simon, If you purchased in October of last year, the lights are still under warranty. Please contact me by email sandjoh@gmail.com for further instructions.
Tried that, don't remember why it didn't work, solution was to remove the bracket once the lights were aimed. That gave me access to the bolt & jam nuts. Lights haven't moved since.
Order placed! Can't wait to get these 60's mounted up, and to test out the flashlight! They'll be WABDR tested the last week of the month. Pics will ensue. Thanks. Rainier_runner
Finally got a chance to get some pics of the model 60's on my '00 1150GS. Back wall of the garage is approximately 55 feet away. These pics are a very accurate representation (to my eyes) of how the output of the model 60's really look. Everything shot in full manual mode using a Nikon D90 and a Tamron 18-50mm 2.8 lens. No editing of any kind aside from JPG conversion. I don't see how you could beat the performance of these lights at anywhere near the price. ***The only disclaimer is that in these pics the projection angle of all the lights is slightly lower than they would be if I were sitting on the bike***. . Pic 1 - Nothing but ambient lighting courtesy of City of Chicago Pic 2 - 35W HID low-beam only Pic 3 - 35W HID lowbeam and advmonster model 60's at 100% - SHAZAM! Pic 4 - 35W HID lowbeam, 55W halogen highbeam, advmonster model 60's at 100% Pic 5 - advmonster model 60's at 100%, no lowbeam or high beam
Hey Sanjoh - just had a small rock go through the front lens on a 40 . The glass broke into shards which is not the safest... Replaced the lens with an old one from a 10 that I had lying around - what are the chances of future lights having a lexan or polycarbonate front lens? Don't think it would add too much to the cost... viz
Sanjoh, I got your lights in yesterday (Holy crap! FAST shipping. I ordered Thursday afternoon and they arrived at my door on Saturday with standard shipping selected!). I went to install them and realized automotive wiring is definitely not my thing. I want to wire them independent of any of the headlights so that I can flip them on and off regardless of whether the high or low beams are on or whether the keys are on, etc. In my simplistic mind, it makes sense that I can just add an inline fuse and switch to the hot wire and just run the negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery. Here is a quick diagram of my proposed wiring plan: Would I need a relay or a voltage regulator or anything? Is that diagram complete crap? If anyone else has my answer, please feel free to jump in. This isn't just directed toward Sanjoh.
