Overgrown Offroad Zombie

Aftermarket suspension tuners are also going for a full soft ride, I'm not. I'll probably go with longer pre-load spacers to get it to coil bind before the engine hits the ground.

<BR>Sorry to bother you.

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Oh come on, Jim. Didn't mean to hurt your feelers, sorry.


I mean lets think about it, nothing has changed except the bike lost 100 pounds. If the engine wasn't supposed to be a stressed member, then why do they still build them that way? I can't believe that the original design of the front suspension works at all with those little struts that the coil hangs on to keep the whole front end from hinging over on itself.

Hey Poolside, I found a degree wheel on the 'net. I'll cut a hole for the crank snout and bolt it to the front cover, should work pretty good. Once I find 60* BTDC I'll mark a flywheel tooth so it's easy to find.




Also found some diamond scrap to make a center stand skidplate, I'll weld tabs to the stand and bolt the plate on.

Made up some shim blocks for the front seat mounts, about 3/8" taller than stock. I'll probably pull the tank pads off since they don't match the lines of the seat now.

Universal from UFO, haven't put it on yet because I don't want welding spatter on it:




Headlights just got here:

Rob......Just.........

Thanks, having fun with it.


Finally got an email back from SuperPlush, .49 is about as stiff as I can go with these forks. I could cut a few coils to increase the rate, then take up the room with longer spacers if needed. I should be pretty close with the .49 rate I think, this is a two-up dirt sight seeing bike, close is good enough.

Excellent idea, attaching that degree wheel to the front cover.

How are you with a small soldering iron? You'll need to solder a resistor, LED, and a couple of wires together.

More whiteboard stuff:

Check the balance on the front hub. Maybe roll it on a hard level flat surface to see if it is already balanced. You know, see if it has a heavy spot.

You'll be removing 15° of metal from the 'timing window', which will change the balance. At thousands of RPM, that imbalance will make a buzz. If the hub is already balanced, then re-balancing it will be simple enough.

To check for a heavy spot, rolling the hub on a glass plate would be ideal. Many surfaces are not perfectly level. Use a ball bearing to determine the direction of the slope of the surface. Then roll the hub on a path perpendicular to the slope. That way the slope doesn't influence the balance check.

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Damn you are smart!

Jim

http://youtu.be/G8kkDwxD-co

I need to pick up a new iron as mine croaked awhile back, but I can melt solder.

I've got the hub on the desk in front of me and the timing gap is right across from what I now know is the balance window on the front...learn something new every day!! Makes perfect sense now that you mention it, won't be any problem to balance it out!!

Yellow fork boots got here today. Figured out the exhaust and started building that.

Buddy came over and did a VIN verification on my non-plated XRR, I might have to jump on that for a day so I can get a lamp inspection done...I miss not thumping.

Looks like we're getting a break in the weather soon, that's one of the hottest Septembers I can remember since living here...July and August were pretty nice for a change.

Not bad...

For a guy with a headache.

Looks like it's coming together nicely Rob.

Now get some studded leather, spike heeled boots, dye your hair, put on that special Motley Crue facepaint and ride that thing to WMRS next year!

A couple more things about that. The Hall sensor plate must be in place during the hub modification. The paper degree wheel must account for that.

The Hall sensor is adjusted before the paper degree wheel is attached. After the degree wheel is attached you will not need access to the sensor screws.

I don't know if you plan to use the degree wheel with a scribed-line pointer on the hub. If you do, the above will be relevant.


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I was thinking of using the degree wheel to find 60 BTDC, making a pointer, then getting the degree wheel out of the way.

You lead, I'll follow.

Gotta run to work.

Still waiting on carb manifolds and the ignition box, I hope Volker didn't forget me. :eek1

Well I don't know, we're both doing a little of both. You're the guy doing the work over there, I'm taking cues from you as well.

About the degree wheel and pointer and related, you get it just fine. I didn't know how far you were going with that paper degree wheel. One mark at 60 BTDC is enough.

Whiteboard stuff:

- I think BMW sells what they call a 'repair plug' that plugs into the Hall sensor cable. That will save you from cutting the connector from the factory harness, or conversely, cutting the connector off the sensor cable and splicing the wires directly.

- This ignition system uses only one of the Hall sensors. That leaves the other sensor that might be used as a backup. See if the sensor plate can be mounted 'upside down' to the front cover. This way, if the first sensor should fail, you can rotate the plate 180 degrees and use the second sensor.

- There's one more but I just forgot what it was

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Yup, just using the degree wheel to find the 60 and mark it.

I'm cool with cutting the plug off the hall sensor and putting a new end on it. I have some ready made deutch connectors ready to go...two wires? I can make a three or more if needed.

Cool, a backup sensor!!


I'll work my tail off tomorrow, it's progress time. I'll have to mock up the carbs the best I can and get my final tubing welded in...still no manifolds, I think the shipping said Oct 6th as the latest delivery date.

Forgive me for asking, but what are you gaining by doing the mods?

$3,000 and a weight reduction of 149 pounds.

And I support that kind of initiative. The thing is the sensor cable is shielded, and for many reasons it would be better to break the shield after the connector than before. The primary reason is you'll then have a known-good timing input to work with. And to both our advantage, troubleshooting from 400 miles away is something I'd like to limit. If I was there, well, it'd be a different story

149 pounds? Wow!

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