Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

Clutches from 2000 to 2007 have changed.

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Yeah, and? My 07 clutch is buttery smooth and has just the right amount of resistance. I've seen a lot of people wanting to go to a hydro clutch, never understood why, those things are horrible, spongy and no feel to them.

But maybe that's just because I've only ever had one bike with a hydro clutch (which I changed to a cable LOL)

not worth it for the extra capacity but worth it to me for convenience and an extra bit of bling!

StolenFant • Yesterday 08:28 PM
Clutches from 2000 to 2007 have changed.

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Yes they sure have. The 07 clutch has 07 springs, 07 plates, 07 cable, and an 07 lever. The 2000 model has the same items but they were made in 2000.
Try a good cleanning, lubracation, and adjustment before condeming.

Isn't it funny how some folk just want to change for the sake of change?
They always rip on and want to change the easy stuff like side stands and seats. Instead of servicing the steerhead bearings they add a steering dampner.
A hyd. clutch is great! Hey, less moving parts. But of course the master and slave cylinders take alot of wear as a result of use. The clutch is used much mpore than brakes. The seals and cylinder bores wear. My K1200 has a hyd. clutch and at 64K miles it is still working smoothly.

Getting the cable aligned properly at both ends so it doesn't rub against the end of the housing making a corner when it's under tension, and cleaning and lubricating the lever and cable makes a huge difference. Mine is buttery smooth, and I'm not worried about wearing it out. The effort is on par with, or lower than, the hydro clutches on new bikes at the dealer.

I lube mine all the time and the pull is fine - how do you align the cable and keep it so?

That thing must work like a block and tackle. I too have no trouble with clutch pull on the 610. My OEM cable broke at 2k, but the motion pro +2" I replaced it with has been great for 5k+ and I also haven't had any trouble finding -N- ever! I think it's important the cables routed proper (a zip tie) near the lever to keep the cable from bowing helps.

Edit: with the pad and risers I don't have it zip tied anymore. It lines up very nice by itself now. I think like most of us, I too run the cable up through the top bar clamp. I did spend some time fiddling with the bottom cable mount when I installed it, marketing sure it wasn't rubbing on the cable housing. FWIW, don't spend the money on one of those fancy cable lube things. They make as much of a mess as spraying the lube in with a straw. this stuff works good! I use it for almost everything.

This is how the cable should mbe routed.

Does the cable run inside the radiator next to the frame or to the outside?

I bought my bike used and its on the outside of the radiator,,,

Thanks!

It should run inside by the frame and up over the rad if I remember correctly. I zip tie it to the rad fan housing to keep it off the head and then up, but DON'T pinch it between the the rad and frame. I got mine back from the shop once like that and had to take everything off down to the right rad to reroute it.

That's a clean bike!! I'm mean that in a good sense. It's cold here so I'm not washing mine and it looks like the "red headed step kid in the corner".

Thank You! But it's not always clean!


You can also see in this photo that the cable route is behind the right radiator. But not between rad. and frame.

The bike cleans up well:

Handlebar lever end

Lower end

Got in a little 4 day trip to Baja with my son after Christmas. The 610 is a worthy dual sport mount for Baja that I wouldnt trade for anything.

Lower end is easy - but the upper needs a machine shop??

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Hello guys. I am joining the group. I just traded one of my street bikes for a 2006 TE610 with and extra set of sumo wheels, dirtbag setup, spare parts and almost an entire spare engine. Of course I have inherited the subframe issues.

The exhaust mount seems to have been broken and repaired with a homemade metal bracket. The battery mount seems to have had metal added with screws to strengthen it. I will have to look at it closer later. The brake light did not work when I got it. I found a lot of dirt in the space behind the light. I cleaned the connections and put a thick layer of dielectric grease on them and got it working again. There is a chance I might change the whole light out in the future. The left mirror mount is broken. It should be an easy fix. One of the mounting points of the front left header cover is broken. I guess that I will have to have that welded. Is the exhaust pipe stainless?

The main problem that I have found is that the subframe is broken on the left side on the extension that sticks out past the seat in the rear and holds the rear fender and rack. I guess that my only option is to take it apart and have it welded. Is that the best course of action? What should I have to tell the welder for the aluminum for the subframe?

Thank you for any directions and ideas.
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It's a super-easy part to knock out if someone has access to a lathe. I did, so I did.

I'm selling one!

Subframe failures with many enduro type bikes are common - this is a weight saving area and often they are only designed to hold the fender and maybe lights and plate. Many then fit a rack or extra gas tank and they FAIL. This is very common on the 610's and 630. When you have it repaired you must have it gusseted for extra strength. There is a very good thread on it on the Cafe Husky website (albeit for the 630) uit applies to 610 as well. This will also allow you to use a rack if you wish. If you simply weld the break the chances are good it will break again next to the existing break.

Oh and check your battery cage while about it - also known to crack.