The Toolkit Thread

Absolutely. It's not that difficult, particularly if you do regular tire changes with the same tools for practice. I've changed many flats on the trail (only one was mine.)

I always take tubes, and patches, but I never use the patches. I'm sure patches work for some people, but I've seen many try and fail. Fixing a flat is far less fun the second time.

Motion Pro make some nice light levers which I take with me as well as at least one tube which I can use in either tyre. Rather swap the tube out and be on my way whilst the puncture repair patch is healing.

^ I learned to work on moto tires/tubes recently using one of the giant, aluminum handled 18" tire irons plus 2 of the cheap-o steel 8" shorties. the 18" helps particularly with getting old, cold, hard OEM tires off. Taking that big mother on the bike is obviously not an option.
With that I learned the overall method of doing the tire correctly and not pinching the tube.

The key to doing moto tires is getting the opposite side bead into the well of the rim. This is very different from bicycles (road, XC or DH).

For my trail pack, I carry one of the nice aluminum Motion Pro levers with the hex for the rear axle nut, plus the 2 cheap-o 8" irons. 3 irons is better than 2, in my opinion.
I also have one of these, which I haven't tried yet, but is small, cheap and light and seems like it could be helpful :
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Trail-Bead-Buddy/dp/B00678NEUM

look at the motion pro wrench/iron



tom

Thanks everyone - very helpful.

As far as an emergency tube that would satisfy both front and rear tires, any recommendations for selecting a size?

Ride safe, ride often,

RS
:)

​

The larger front tube size can be used in the rear tire as well when necessary.

On the trail I use some of the shortie 8" tyre levers, with a pair of those the front tire is easy enough but they are too short to change a rear easily.

Of course I changed out the factory ring spanners for some quality Koken ring spanners, the new spanners ring section fits over the shortie levers and gives the leverage needed to change a stiff rear tyre with little trouble.

Tool friends, I have a question, since we're talking tires.

Why do guys use these:


Instead of these:

i dont see first picture but my snake has valve tool on it

Cause the tubes they bought don't have caps with the tool?

So they can have another spendy MP tool?

So they can run it in a power screwdriver and do dozens in a flash?

I do AC work and all the small valves use automotive style cores (different compound tho) and about half the heavy brass caps have the tool, the other half don't. Depends on whose valve it is. But AC guys have the same silly tool and a lot of small screwdrivers have it on the butt end. I now have dozens and dozens of really nice brass core tools from salvaged caps.

I use neither. I think this cost me about $2.98.

Thanks guys. I have the MP tool, but then hit myself on the forehead remembering the valve caps with integrated remover. I wasn't sure if I was missing something.

So now I have 2 tool-caps and one fewer tool in the tool roll.

I used the snake... but after watching this vid (look at 2:00 min) I don't even bother anymore.

I use the snake kind, not either of the above... The reason I do not use the cap style is I want to ensure I have one in my kit I can find, and the caps tend to get lost eventually...

As for the bead breaker tire irons, I travel with these...

I haven't had trouble with getting the valve through the rim, most recently with Shinko 705s front and rear and a Pirelli Scorpion Rally up front. Yeah, it took me maybe 30 secs, but it didn't seem to merit buying the snake tool.

I suppose it is harder with full-on street tires.

I've found it most helpful when trying to align the rim lock with a tube tire. It's always easier (for me, anyway) to use the snake on the valve just to keep track of it. I have big hands and hate to pinch them between the tire bead and the rim while aligning the rim lock or just trying to keep track of the valve...

Of course, it is not a necessary tool, but it sure makes the job easier for me...

Exactly how I do it. I have a couple of those snake things and I've never had to use one.

I always just use two tire spoons reversed and work them around. I have tried to find a review of those but no luck. How well do they work?

hmm, so far every time somebody ran a flat on a ride the beat broke before the bike stopped, but I guess you could get a flat while parked.

That's one think I should think about for solo rides (otherwise I just use the kickstand of another bike anyway)

Interesting to hear that someone else had the same issue as me and more importantly you found out in the comfort of your garage.

Once welded it's darn reliable and functional. I've been using it for a solid year since the welding, in the field and garage and has worked a charm. It should only cost a couple bucks for your local welding shop to put a bead around it and fix it right and you'll be a happy pup with the space it saves in the toolkit. A shame that Motion Pro is aware of the issue but has not changed the assembling methods of the piece. If it does not work 100% I would not bother packing it in a tool kit as tools are usually needed when shit goes wrong and reliability of the tool is a must have.