I agree, over priced. BUT, be aware, you will not be the only one watching for the price to come down....
I picked up a rt last weekend and am in the process of setting it up for me. Being 6'6" I'm likely going to need bar risers. Are there any alternatives to raising the bar vertically without replacing the entire top clamp?
But doesn't that push the bars back towards the footpegs significantly? I sure wish the funky handlebar clamps weren't cast into the top clamp.
Photo below is of a set of Renthal fabars that have a 100mm (4 inch) height, but gain a bit more than that in height due to the bar adaptors. You can see that the distance the bars have moved rearward is about half the width of the handlebar; ie less than 20mms, and not noticable in the feel of the bars. Also, by rotating the bars forward to the vertical you can offset any slight reward positioning. Great feel and not too low at all.
Hi all, After snapping my bars up on the side of the mountain behind my house I bought some Pro Taper "high" bars from Dennis at http://www.overlandtrail.biz/. Interesting ride back home! Anyhow, I'm quite pleased with the high bars. They seem about an inch higher. I'm not tall but a bit old(er) (61) and a bit beat up. I find them comfortable (just enough height that my back feels better most of the time and takes a little pressure off my shoulders) but not enough to have any noticeable impact on handling. I certainly think they are worth considering. When its time for new ones they'll be high bars again for me. I think Renthal also has them.
I rode a Montesa 4RT, the new 2T Ossa, and a GasGas, and as a first time trials rider, the 4RT worked perfectly for me. Love at first ride. The 2T bikes were too response for my geriatric reflexes.
Playing with the suspension linkage. Needle bearings at local bearing shop[Applied Industrial Tech] has them for $6.95 each. Number is HK1512 brand name Koyo.
They will be in tuesday. I will take picture and see. 15X21X3. It takes two per hole. I have no idea what "full compliment" means. What ever comes they must be better than what is in there.
This is the box the bearings come in. I got six at $6.50 each. Pressed the old ones out and pressed in the new ones. Worked good with 3 MM left for seals on the out sides. I picked up three of these at Skagit Power Sports today. I made some bronze bushings in case these didn't come in on time[kinda fun]. I don't know if these could be bought at a Honda shop or not as they came from a Montessa dealer. fwiw this worked in my bike.
I spent some time putting around the yard last night and the bike ran perfectly for an hour or so. I attempted to go for a ride today. When I got to the trail head as usual I went to start the bike to warm up. It started on the second kick like it normally does, but only ran for a few seconds and died. I tried resetting the ECU and disconnected the kill switch to no avail. When I got the back home I pulled the plug and I can't see any spark I tried a new plug and still no spark. The plug is pretty dry after a few kick overs and there isn't much fresh gas smell coming out of the plug hole when checking for spark. It was raining today and I transport the bike on a hitch hauler so I thought it might be water intrusion somewhere. I've gone through all the connectors around the R/R stack and coil. There's wasn't an excessive amount of water anywhere. the center pin of the BAS plug was a little corroded so I cleaned it up. I jumpered the outer 2 leads of the BAS and it didn't seem to make any difference. I pulled the BAS and is does rattle a little bit, but it also sounds like it filled with liquid. Is that normal? Am I jumpering it correctly Red/white to Green? Any other thoughts of what might be the cause? Thanks.
Full Compliment means no inner cage separating the needle bearings. It allows more needles to fit in and that makes it better for heavy load applications.
I got a chance to dive further into troubleshooting today. The good news is the fuel pump runs with an external power source. WIth everything connected except the R/R it still have no spark or squirt. I pulled the injector to verify there was no fuel. Going through all the steps in the manual everything checks out accept the pulse generator which reads as an open circuit. I pulled the side cover and the pulse coil still reads open where the wires come out of the coil. Is there anything else that would cause no spark and no fuel? Is there a flow chart anywhere of how the FI system on there bikes work? Anyone have a dead stator with a good pulse coil that is collecting dust?
OIC I'm going to swing by the Bearing shop this week and will ask them about them. I'll take one of the old ones with.
Did you get it sorted Brian? My 4RT just wouldn't start in the middle of an event after lying it down between sections. No spark, no fuel at the injector. Turned out to be the throttle conduit had pulled out by the injection body holding the throttle open slightly - no sparkl and no fuel if you haven't got throttle off for starting. Reinserted cable, two kicks and off it went. Hope yours is something really simple like mine was ... Just a shame I didn't work it out until about 4 hours later. Was a great event as well. My only ever DNF due to bike failure! Andrew
I should know more this weekend. The part I was waiting for arrived yesterday hopefully I'll have some time hooks things back up and see if I get spark.
BTW - I was in Beaverton Honda tonight after work and they had a bunch of discount stuff in a discount area. On one of the tables was what looked like a trip odo/etc. The label on it said "4RT" and the list price was something like $219. The price on the outside of it was $50.