We don't offer a 4" light. Do you have a pic of the rear of the light? Might be able to easily adapt a third light in that position.
I'll try and get some pics of the housing opened up this weekend. There is room to spare for typical MR16 Halogens in the upper two spaces. Overall the housing is maybe 2.5 inches deep.
Woa I Really like this, great job! I have a BD 8" La Paz Halogen light and I love the 8" racelight look but want LED efficiency. I'll be following this thread for more info on such conversions. Also, can one order those flush mount adapters for your lights? For instance, I have a TW200 with a 4x6 halogen headlight. I think one could make a replacement light with a lexan or other plastic (metal even) lense bolted into the stock mounting points. The key would be the flush mount kits. A model 30 for driving spot (possibly on dimmer) and 44 for flood on high beam could fit in the 4x6 and look good (imo).
After doing some research for driving lights and reading the posts here on ADVRider, I just started to buy some lights on ADVMONSTER and had to stop shopping after I saw the ridiculously high shipping costs.
Have you paid to ship something yourself since the last price hike? I was amazed the last time I mailed a package how much the post office hiked rates. UPS is also expensive now too, no way around it, it seems. I haven't bought lamps from ADVMonster in almost a year, kinda po'd at myself for missing the very recent sale price on the 30's.
We use USPS Priority or First Class mail. You likely did not move through the checkout process far enough to get an estimate of shipping. Typical cost to ship a pair of lights to anywhere in the US is 7-12 usd.
Any other 12v fused source not mentioned in the documentation? That 12v wire coming from the rotary is a bit short to get anywhere. You mentioned the horn circuit. The horn switch won't work will it?
Since I am trying to wire with highbeam bypass do I need to go by some wire at Radio Shack and some type of spade connectors and run a hot to a relay of some sort from the battery hot and then run from relay to 12v marked on the rotary switch? I guess ground works the same. Bike is in pieces in the garage until I get this figured out.
QFT..... Sanjoh sells a great product. I got in the last 30 sale and man are those things bright. I'm running no dimmer with the lights down on the fork. I leave home in the dark and these lights are soooooo much better to ride with. Sanjoh's a stand up man. I've met him and he stands behind his product. I'll be back for another set once the funds are available.
i don't know much about wiring and such, so i hope someone can help me here. I have bought a pair of ADV 60's and have them installed already, I have a set of adv 30's to add as well.... the questions is, can i run all 4 lights on the same power wires that run to the fuze block? i used 18ga wire and would like to just tap into the same wires.
You should be good with the 18 gauge for that load. It's only around 50 or 60 watts for all four lights IIRC. Someone will be along to correct me if I'm wrong soon though
The horn circuit may work, the switch will not as it is momentary on. What type of bike is it? Which model lights? Switched fused power is recommended. Your description of the relay will work.
Depending on where you draw your power from, this diagram can work: I have a few others here: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/BMW_Wiring_Diagrams.html Jim
sanjoh, do you sell brackets to flush mount your lights? (I'm thinking more headlight replacement as opposed to auxiliary lighting). Also, I'm assuming the latest Model 30 sale at the end of March has ended, correct?
2009 Kawasaki KLR650. Model Lights are dual 44's. Going to try using a relay. I know I can do this! hahaha
