Kawasaki 650 Thinja notes; parts bin build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by dentvet, Jan 23, 2011.

  1. 4play

    4play Next?

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    While waiting on the swingarm I started loking at the front. A silightly smaller SM fender & I disassembled the headlight/instrument mount looking at options. I was thinking about using the original gauge mount ala KTMKLX, but that didn't have quite the look I was thinking about having the light that far forward, so I tried the TT X2 off my dirtbike, not bad, but not really a very good light, then I tried my TT 8" HID & it's not bad, even has a decent place to mount the gauges, but no Hi/Lo & not DOT. I'm back to the original light.

    [​IMG]


    http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr60/bkroupa/image.jpg~current
  2. dentvet

    dentvet Long timer

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    The year before i met you, i rode with spencer. Dual 8 inch rounds might be the ticket in az for the thinja.

    I kept the oem lights because they were pretty bright, not horribly ugly and $30-50 on ebay.

    Keep experimenting and you'll find the right setup. Have you confirmed that you have 300 watts to play with? Sanjoh should know. Check out what he has to offer. :deal
  3. 4play

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    I'm pretty convinced the way you had it setup was pretty dang good. I've been on night rides with spencer and yes, those double "D's" throw a bunch of light. My single does fine for off road, I may look harder at it. There is an h4 halogen conversion that lets you swap from HID to DOT legal halogen quickly. I like the oem headlight setup, it has that angry bird attitude :)
  4. 4play

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    I mocked up the inner fender, I had plenty of room for the computer behind the battery box.

    [​IMG]
  5. 4play

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    Any of you guys have a lighter smaller ignition switch idea? Since I'm not using the steering lock, I see no need to carry this thing around.
  6. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    I'm debating getting rid of the key entirely and using my highway dirtbikes buttons to fire the bike.

    But then you lose the key lock for the gas tank unless you have the key with you.
  7. Dirigo

    Dirigo Curious

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    Just found this thread. Interesting to see the Thinja change hands, but benefit from the skill and talent of the owners. Subscribed, thanks for posting your work Gents!
  8. 4play

    4play Next?

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    Making progress

    [​IMG]

    Made a mini roll bar for the instruments from the original instrument mount and fairing brace.

    I'm starting to dig the round headlight

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
  9. 2fast4u

    2fast4u What the hell!

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    Nice work. I don't think you will break a foot peg off that mount .
  10. 4play

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    I still need to machine a pivot for the brake pedal, once located I'll cut & weld the pedal arm to get it where i want it, plus add a larger probably folding tip. I did machine the Engine guard spacer a bit, but I still have concerns about the end of the bar being a false brake. I may add a tab/guide to the brake pedal tip that keeps my boot from getting on the bar.

    I am going to drill the plates to use the center frame hole as well, just getting everything located.

    [​IMG]
  11. 4play

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    I was feeling pretty good about my pegs, all engineered just lacked a little labor...wrong

    I welded the peg bracket on this side & mounted the shift lever.

    [​IMG]

    It looked good so I couldn't resist swinging a leg over & I felt it flex a little :huh

    I got off & with all my manly 230lbs applied I'm getting up to 3/16" flex at the very end :cry

    Looking from the rear, that 3/16" plate doesn't look as beefy as it seemed before.

    [​IMG]

    I'll need to make a brace to the crossmember (where I laid the conduit) if there is room with the swingarm & chain or lose the muffler & tie the two pegs together.

    One step forward, one back
  12. 16VGTIDave

    16VGTIDave Reaver made me do it...

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    Could you weld a gusset onto the back of the plate between the bolt above the peg and the peg mount? Just thinking out loud...
  13. 4play

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    So, I went back out & welded the right side mount & climbed on again.
    It's really not flexing that much, I think I can run a piece of 1/8-3/16" strap on edge on the inside from near the peg mount up past the middle bolt & make it plenty ridgid enough. I really want to keep the peg brackets as a bolt on. I'll wait until I have the swing arm mocked up before I do anything. The 1.5" lower than versys pegs feel really good & makes room for my toes behind the engine guards. The pegs wound up 3" farther back from the front axle than my KTM, but the KTM seat tank allows me to sit farher forward than the Ninja fuel tank will. Top of the stock seat to the top of the pegs is 1/2" shorter than the KTM with the same fastway footpegs. I'll have the seat re done to match the Versys tank & add some comfort. I've used Fisher for custom seat work, do any of you have somebody to recommend?
  14. 4play

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    great minds think alike ;)
  15. 16VGTIDave

    16VGTIDave Reaver made me do it...

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    In the last pic, I noticed the nut that you are using as a spacer, and all the room behind the plate, and I got to thinking. And I have been looking at my bike and pondering how I might be able to relocate my pegs lower. :wink:
  16. 4play

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    For anyone who wondered about the difference in seat fit between a Ninja & a Versys tank.

    [​IMG]

    Sitting & standing, I like the Versys tank better..

    [​IMG]
  17. sanjoh

    sanjoh Long timer

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    Any other mods required to use the Versys tank?
  18. 4play

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    The mounts are the same, it slips right on.
    JDRocks had to use the Versys slightly longer fuel line, because the Ninja fuel pump is clocked differently. The 5 bolt flange is not symetrical so you can't just reposition it.

    All I've done so far is bolt it down, but as far as I know the fuel line is all that's required to install the tank on a Ninja. The seat fits the mounts, just has a gap..
  19. ben2go

    ben2go Long timer

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    You could build the seat foam out to match the tank.May look odd tho.
  20. 4play

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    The seat is a non issue for somebody like
    Fisher, it'll look like OEM or better when he's done. I was going to have the seat redone anyway, for comfort and to get it all one color.