Triumph Tiger 800

Unless you find out what the correct play translates to when on the center stand, record it, and then set accordingly.

Here's the method I've used for decades:

1. Adjust chain properly. This can be done on the side stand as per the manual, or you can use a ratchet strap to compress the rear suspension until swingarm pivot, countershaft and axle are in line (the chain's tightest point in swingarm travel).
2. Place the bike on the center stand.
3. Take any tool from the bike's toolkit and find an identifiable spot (bolt, casting, seam, etc.) ~midway (where the most chain slack is) on the bottom of the swingarm to use as a reference. (or, mark a spot with a punch if nothing is readily available)
4. Put the top end of the tool there and mark where the top of the chain crosses the tool. (Scribe, Sharpie, etc.)
5. Lift the chain up and mark tool again where the top of the chain now crosses it.
6. You now have a custom tool that provides an easy reference point for chain tension measurement on the center stand. (I've done this for years for many chain drive bikes)

I know this is traditionally the case esp. with dirt bikes with longer travel but as I mentioned a few posts back this is not the case for me with my roadie. The chain is tighter when on the center stand. Is it really different on the XC or are people relying on past bike's experience to make that assumption. I'm just curious.

Definitely agree with you! I am just curious to know what it is. But when it comes to a bike like this, trial and error costs too much with things i don't know enough about 

My first thought with the issue was the chain as well!

I've also always heard and read to do it on the kickstand but as time goes and do maintenance on more and more bikes, i've personally learned that it varies. My xr250l and klr were both on kickstand but some of my friends' road bikes were centerstand... it just depends. I haven't purchased my tiger yet, will be when they get a white one in stock so i can't speak for that...

The chain is at the tightest point when the countershaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle are in line. At that point there should be free play in the chain. About an inch or so. Unfortunately there is no easy way to get things lined up to make this a convenient method.

When you put it on the sidestand there is nothing magical about it. In fact it likely introduces more variables.

Is the parked bike fully unloading the shock?

Partially unloaded, but to what degree?

Is the bike on a slope that might affect the suspension load?

Is there luggage affecting the shock compression?

All of this will affect the chain tension when on the sidestand, though probably only slightly. However, this is how most riders will have to check the chain, so the manufacturer give specs to do it this way that probably have quite a bit of margin for error built in.

Bottom line, better to err on the side of too much slack rather than too tight of a chain.

Looking to install a set of Rox risers on my Tiger 800. Please can someone let me know the size of the allen head that is needed for the upper 2 bolts. Noticed that I don't have that particular size in my tool kit, so need to get just that specific size and instead of making a few trips to HD, thought I would check here.

Bolts are:

M8X1.25X30,SLV
M10X1.25X60

Meaning you need a 6mm and an 8mm allen. I'd get something like this and be done with it. I actually have all the sockets I need but they are from similar sets just a different manufacturer (Hazet in my case - I always buy tools when I'm in Germany or have friends bring them when they are coming to visit ... ).

Great, thanks Cug.

I am speaking from experience. The chain is significantly tighter when adjusted on the center stand.

The other day I had it up on the centerstand and decided to check the chain tension. Hmmm... a bit loose. So I whipped out the tools and adjusted to the loose end of the spec like I always do. Finished up and dropped it off the center stand. Then checked it one more time.

Whoaa. Way too tight. Check the manual. Sure enough, check on side stand. Readjust and move it back to where is was in the first place.

It's only significantly tighter if you adjust it to the specs which states it is to be adjusted on the side-stand.

You can adjust a chain on the center OR side stand and it be in spec, you just have to be aware of the procedure. It's poppcock to say you can't adjust the chain on the center stand - that's how I've always done it.

On a related note, I'll take a slightly loose chain over a tight one any day...

This is exactly what I was trying to convey in that procedure above to make a tool that shows the spec for adjusting on the centerstand.

As the swingarm rotates further down, the chain will be more slack than it would on the sidestand and this must be taken into account.

Adjust it to spec on the sidestand, then put it on the centerstand and measure the freeplay for the NEW spec to be used whenever adjusting it on the centerstand and you are golden.

Not exactly rocket science, but it can be confusing when how the slack changes at different points of suspension travel isn't fully realized.

Take a chill pill my friend. I was only answering the gentlemens question. I never said one shouldnt take your most accurate advice. I only said there was indeed a difference.

I also agree that it is best to run a chain on the loose side.

While on the subject of chain adjustment, has anyone noticed their adjustment blocks on the swingarm not being symmetrical? I had the back wheel off the other weekend to put new tires on, and when we were getting everything reinstalled, my buddy noticed that the adjuster blocks were significantly different in their position on the swingarm.

On the left side, you can see that the block is just a couple millimeters from the end of the swingarm:


Whereas on the right side, there's a good half inch from the end of the swingarm:



We measured the axle to swingarm pivot over and over, and everything seems to be correct there, but it seems weird that they'd be spaced so differently. :huh

OK. Then there appears to be a difference between the Roadie (or at least my bike with -2 in the back plus lifting links) and the XC.

FWIW, I am fully aware of how to adjust my chain etc... I was just interested in this data point for the XC.

I go by the indicator dots. Appears to be perfectly aligned. No bad manners, no vibes, nada.

I gotta think you've got it adjusted correctly (properly aligned) as you'd have to try to have it that far out of whack. My bike is not like that.

One word for anyone having trouble adjusting their chain, shaft. Go buy an Explorer or Tenere or GS. I used to be a shaft only kind of guy, hated chains. BUT my wife has only ever ridden chain driven bikes, SO I was stuck with chain maintenance anyway. I realized a few years ago that it really doesn't matter what drive a bike uses, I just buy the bike that I want to ride. And modern chains are pretty damn easy to maintain.

I do as a few have suggested. Adjust on the side stand, put it back on the center stand and re-measure so I know where to adjust to next time. Also check the frame alignment notches or detents on a new bike to see if they're accurate.

Best way to check tension is as one poster mentioned, line up the axle, swingarm pivot, and front sprocket. Use a tie down over the seat to the swingarm. Once they are in line you should have just a slight bit of slack, about 1/2" is plenty as the chain can never get any tighter at that point. Release the tie strap and then put your bike on the side stand, center stand, whichever you prefer and use that as your chain tension.

On our sons dirt bikes we just used four fingers between swingarm and chain, now those were run loose.



How to do it with pretty pictures...
http://www.easterndirt.com/?p=207

Great tip at the end for making a small wooden chain tension tester.

I'm not at home so I can't look at mine but is there a chance you have one of those blocks upside down? I had the dealer put mine on upside down last year and I had to fix it when I got home. You can't see the marks if it is upside down. Just a thought.

Hmm, considering I didn't realize there was even an upside down, that's entirely possible. I'll have to take a look later, thanks for the advice.

And while I know it's not a very popular solution for whatever reason, if you install a Pro-Oiler and set it up and use it correctly your chain adjustment become pretty much non-existent. Mine gets adjusted when the wheel comes off for tire replacement which is about every 10-14k miles.

Yep. Left side is up side down. Won't hurt anything since the chain tension adjusting bolts keep the alignment.. Just change it the next time you have the axle nut off.

Right Side



Left Side



Pics make it look out of alignment but in reality it's good.