the DR650 thread

If you want to do this right, get some header wrap at a speed shop, auto zone, etc. More better.

Still analyzing the situation, but I think I would rather have the pipe hot than the nearby oil lines and cylinder base. People wrap their exhausts on hot rods to keep the engine cooler, so same principle. I am most worried about my poor leg when the temperatures are high.

I saw the header wrap at Autozone by the same company that seems to have the market (Thermo Tec), but the danged stuff was $50 for a package and I would have to hand wrap it around the pipe. The starter blanket is basically the same asbestos fabric without the tougher housing. I may order one of the clamp on tailpipe shields from Thermo Tec which would have been the ideal solution. I actually got a curved tailpipe extension with the idea of cutting it in half and making my own shield that matched the curve of the exhaust pipe and had the asbestos fabric inside, but the first solution may be okee dokey.
I think the hottest part of the exhaust pipe is the curved part where in comes from the head and makes the bend and that putting insulation on a 10" part just over the clutch housing wouldn't cause any problems. You see hot rods with the exhaust pipes wrapped to keep the heat off the rest of the engine and electrical.

...strange..I have never noticed any undue heat from my 06, but then i always ride with pants and boots...
RCF

So I "rebuilt" the fuel cock on my 92 DR650 today. While running, fuel was spitting from the plastic layer of the vacuum assembly. (I really have no clue how this vacuum assemble works. On the inside, it looks like a tiny maze of plastic and rubber..)

I inspected all the rubber parts, and they seemed to be intact and pliable. So I just cleaned em, and put em back in. I replaced the spring inside the vacuum assembly with a stronger one. Not sure if that was a good idea or not, but i figured it would cause more congruency between the parts.

SO when i put it back together, the leak was stopped! hoorah.

But now, apparently the vacuum is not functioning...

The bike will start if you prime the engine first, but once the petcock is switched to "on" the bike cuts off after about 30 seconds. I watched the fuel line while in the ON position, and there was a static bubble in the line, leading me to the conclusion that the fuel was not flowing. Turn it to "prime" and the fuel flows again.

My question is, is it safe to run the bike while
in the "prime" position? I know it said in the manual to not let the bike sit in "prime", as it will flood the carb.

Will running the bike in "prime" cause any problems?

I know most of you guys have the newer DRs, do they have the same fuel valve?


Thanks for any info.

Hey Zapp! I'm not small or fat but I'm bald and old. A 97 with 4,000 miles? I think I know who's riding in their back yard. Stay in Jo Mama!

Put the stock spring back in. There's not enough vacuum to over come the extra spring tension. Hope this helps.

Swag -

> is it safe to run the bike while in the "prime" position?

Yes. You now have an old style petcock with "PRI" acting as an "ON" postition and "ON" which is acting as an "OFF" postion. Should work fine.

Rick

thanks bumpathump and racer. ...And i thought i was a genius for putting in a new spring

I think I may just leave it with no vacuum for now, just put it on prime when I wanna ride. Eventually I will get it fixed, but I've had enough trouble with this piece for now. At least it doesnt leak

swag

OUCH! 33 miles per month max. I'm not small or old Zapp, but that's pretty light riding even for the backyard...

Please post a pic of your "Ruckus". Never seen one...

Can anyone explain how to mod the carb on my Ruckus?

Don't bother. Converting to fuel injection is simpler...

Yes, that is the problem for me. I wear low top hiking shoes when riding and when in Florida wear shorts a lot. Anyway I fixed it good with the latest mod. I took the starter shield from Thermo Tec off the exhaust pipe and folded in into four layers encased in a piece of dryer vent pipe (thin aluminum). The width of this new shield is about 2" and about 10" long. I hose clamped this to the exhaust pipe near where the factory shield is and it works great. I can lay my hand on the shield now and it is cooler than the clutch case. When I am riding in Florida on the dirt trails with the temps above 75-80 for awhile, I previously had to keep my ankles away from the area of the exhaust pipe. Now I can keep my legs in tight to the gas tank for proper control.

Well if the shoe don't fit, don't pick it up!

That's just the miles on the '97.... It gets time-sliced with my other two... the WeeStrom and the Blue Goose 02 DR. Eenie Meenie Mieniee..... and there is a small space in my garage... just about right for another 2-wheeler.....

did the zuk gel seat and.....IT WORKS GREAT!!!! all you soft ass boys telling me not to bother lol.....im 45 years old and guess im tough assed .cause it felt like a dam pillow to me .even a bit lower and wider .cant go wrong from where i sit !!!!thats all. great cycle,been in the high 20 low 30s every morning and it fires right up. but i do have to ride fist couple miles with the choke on !!

Just wait until your "old tough ass" squashes all that gell away from where your butt sits. Time will show you the weak points of that seat.

i weigh in at 176 lbs. that gel better not sqeeze out with me on it. a little butt imprint wont be so bad. but i hope your either a big guy or wrong!!but im keeping the stocke just in case your a wise old timer that i shouldhave listened too!!

Call us back after you've done a 300 mile day.

That gel seat ain't it, IMO. I've got a Corbin on order. Won't be here in time for a 300 mile ride this Sunday, though.

i did 600 on a busa with stock seat not bad .did 400 on a zrx with a stock seat... didnt want to get back on.so we will see . im planning on taking my 145 pound wife for a 200 mile ride.think shell jump ship? sh es ridden over 100k with me on other cycles .