Kawasaki 650 Thinja notes; parts bin build

thanks! rat pack approved

I cut the tube holders off the LSL clip ons and they bolt into the KTM top triple clamp that I chopped in half. Its pretty crude but it also gave me some great mounting points for stuff like the ignition switch.

The old clip on bars run forward to to a crossbar made from mundane household 3/4 inch copper copper plumbing tubing. (7/8 inch handle bar is the same OD as 3/4 inch tubing). The Headlight and gauge clusters were then simply clamped to the round tubing so they can be rotated/ aimed etc. The tubing also gives the opportunity to mount a RAM or anything else that clamps onto a normal 7/8 inch bar.

I must admit its a cobby solution but it was stuff from the Parts Bin and if it turns out to not be very crashable, it will certainly be easily replaceable. Stuff like this doesn't cost anything but the time spent staring at leftover stuff devising ways to recycle it back onto the bike.

at some point somebody will try a swingarm mod to get more rear wheel travel. The swingarm doesnt bolt onto the engine so it might be easy to find one that fits into the mounts. then one would have to modify or replace the subframe to make a upper shock mount , relocate battery box etc.

The damped front sprocket has nothing to do with absorbing driveline shock like a cush hub, it is strictly for noise reduction.

If you are going to run the bike on the street, especially on street rubber, I would definitely not use a non-cush hub.

The lock to lock steering is a challenge. Be ready to hit the throttle if you are doing a slow tight turn or enter the turn much faster, ala sportbike style, so the centrifugal force will help you keep it upright.

Nice progress on your build.

that true you could lengthen the swingarm thus changing the stroke to travel ratio and end up with a nice travel spec

You rang???

Thanks to all your encouragement I am picking up an 08 650r on Friday. I plan many of the same mods you and Sanjoh have done, but plan to go a few steps further in the suspension dept.

I may make up a swingarm or try and retrofit an MX style. The problem I see is retaining the pivot tube and then grafting on a different type arm. All this is theory as I don't even have the bike yet. I do have a hydraulic tubing bender and a ton of DOM tubing on the way so I may try and hack the original up and then modify it for a linkage type suspension.

Front will most likely be from a late 2000's 450 motocrosser.

The subframe will be replaced by a lighter, thinner custom version.

Not to Hijack but all these threads really help get the juices flowing for what has to be the cheapest build I have ever done. My 650r was $1000 and is an 08 with low miles.:eek1 No title though...

Great job paving the way!!

That sounds fantastic and would address the big issue that kept me from starting one of these builds, too. With a custom rear end you could set up the geometry how you want it. Then if you wanted you could increase ground clearance and lower seat height with the custom subframe.

Go for it!

I'd really like to use an aluminum rear swingarm from something like a YZ, the problem I see is the pivot and how I would engineer that. I do have a TIG welder so that isn't a problem. Other great part of that is that the donor gives the brakes, axle etc. I do worry about alignment but I'm sure I can work through those details.

Opens up a world of possibilities for rear suspension to match the front.

I'll Be starting my own thread shortly...

right on, get to the hybridization!

stinson wanted to see it so he stopped by and snapped a video. the thing is absurd in many ways including how loud it is in the garage. standing position isn't horrible though

<iframe title="YouTube video player" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/UJRGJp0BoEY?rel=0" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="390" width="480"></iframe>

Maybe not clever but frugal, fo-sho. don't look too closely but I had to weld on some plate so the brake clevis hole could be rotated into the versys position. Saved myself 50 bucks.

I'll need to find a ninja replacement brake pedal. I 'm keeping everything to convert it back to a ninja and this is the first ninja part to be harmed in the process so far. Luckily, ninja pedal should be far easier to find than versys pedal.



New wheel for my cush setup arrived so time to lace things up. Woody's had sent me some stainless spokes and ebay provided this Moose Racing rim; $100. I used to work for MR when it was Mom and Pop. (Things have changed a bit)




Now I need to build a truing stand. anyone know a good thread?



Phase One is almost complete. (Phase One being modify bike and see how it rides)

next up:

Make adjustable sidestand. The suspension changes have raised the bike and i now need to place a 3.5 inch block under the foot to park the bike. I guess I could carry a chunk of 4x4 with me but the folks at the feed store might not think that's too cool.

Plan B would be to weld in a 3.5 inch extension to lengthen the thing. Then I would be stuck with having to get another stock ninja stand for converting the bike back to normal.

Plan C is to make the sidestand adjustable. This would allow me to use it in Thinja mode, Ninja mode and thirdly, Sumo mode. I went to the trouble of doing the KTM forks so I could use the spoked KTM 17s I have in the Parts Bin. Here's a fancy solution but for $150 I can probably buy another project bike.
http://www.soupysperformance.com/catalog/item/4408900/7420224.htm

I'm leaning towards the adjustable threaded insert method unless anybody else knows better.

What size wheel did you end up going with?

Now I need to build a truing stand. anyone know a good thread?

I think that lathe you just bought would work pretty good!

I am running a 2.5 by 18. I wonder if the tubliss 18 works on a 2.5 rim.

sidestand progress, not quite there yet. How long is a KLR sidestand?





I just bisected the stand, tapped the hollow tube for 1/2 inch threads and fitted an extension. It's still not quite long enough. It's adjustable but not very elegant

Looks great so far!

It's not officially recommended by Nutech but there are plenty of people running it successfully on their 690s and 950 SEs which come with 18"x2.5" rims. You can choose a tire with a thicker sidewall for extra insurance.

cool, thanks LM.

I was going to build a truing stand but then I saw this in the Parts Bin; the f4i swingarm that came with the shock i used. I've got the rim runout adjusted to within a mm or two axially and even closer radially. how close do you'all get your wheels?



My first lacing job has been kind of fun. I was confounded for a bit during the process as I was looking at my cush Akront supermoto wheel to copy the spoke pattern. I thought I was doing something wrong but then realized that the akront spoke holes are drilled in a different sequential pattern than moose/DID etc

Cool project! Are you going to internally limit the fork travel? I'm a little worried about the ~12" of fork travel and 10.5" of ground clearance.

Building wheels is kinda fun. I've done a few moto wheels and a bunch of bicycle wheels over the years.

thanks BP. I didn't think about the travel situation. might have to break out the old Pythagorean Theorem on this one. i have my triples dropped down about an inch as well.

sanjoh has a similar front end and if you look at this pic, it looks like his forks are bottomed and his heels aren't digging in quite yet.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14945668&postcount=241