the DR650 thread

It's the "Eye of God" Whelen TiR6 red LED flasher with clear lens as a brake light.

Cool very nice! the clear lens made me think it was a white light.
Is it just a brake light some have turn signals?

I run the Scotts on my Bergs and wanted one for the DR too. The PC one was so cheap, it wasn't worth making my own. Any welding shop with Al Mig or TIg should be able to weld it up in a few minutes. I drilled mine to save a few grams


Steve

All done and thanks for the constructive advice! One of the things I would do different is to maybe grind the little cone off the end or at least grind it flat. I put on some 714 Cushion grips and since they are so spongy the cone would curl the end back a bit. But it all worked out pretty well.

What non constructive advice did you get? With this attitude you'll get no advice about anything in the future.

Steve

Nice Alfredo! When did you join the DR club? Nice looking bike (and tank bag )! Hope to see you on the Dinosaur ride...

My advise was get a new throttle tube it is not worth my time to F--- with a piece of plastic, so I ordered an Aluminum one and I will never have this problem again.
I was using a razor knife and cut the tube a few times.

There fixed just for you Steve. RTS. Steve also.

I agree ... NOT splurging for Race Tech Emulator's IMHO, is being Penny Wise and Pound Foolish. It's such a great upgrade ... and gives just that much more tunability with your forks.

Don't forget to try different weight oil in the tubes and different oil levels in the tubes. Makes a nice difference. The Emulators come with 3 little springs of their own. Soft, Medium, and Firm. So you've got those to mess with. Plus pre load.

The goal should be to ride higher in the stroke yet still be able to use most of the travel without harshness in the last 25% of stroke. Getting the forks perfect for both Road and OFF Road is tough ... but with some fiddling and comprehensive testing and notes you can get close.

Neglecting the rear end is also a mistake. The stock Shock sags too much and rides way down in the travel. The DR will Stink Bug on you and wander off road. It also won't do it's best in deep sand. A heavy spring alone, IMO, is not enough.

I don't worry about brake dive. If you know how to brake on a dual sport bike then this should rarely be a problem. USE BOTH BRAKES. With the rear brake employed ... front end dive will be reduced dramatically.

I went on a really nice ride today my shifts were on and my stops were smooth and this reminded me of my three wheeler days when I was one with the bike moving with the bike when the rear would kick out I would kick it some more and whip it back and forth fish tailing in the sand! not stiff and not moving with the bike and not fighting it !

I have my Acerbis 5.3 tank coming and my Mark 3 Pivot Pegz and will be installing my Gafler SS FT and rear[SIZE=+0] high-performance brake lines [/SIZE]!Later bed time!

Hi Dusty!

Thanks, I bought it back in February from a co- worker...Loving it so far! I didnt know you had one either? Looking forward to the Dino ride, the dr should be perfect for it... See ya soon hopefully!

Heading to Margarita Peak, near Camp Pendleton, California.

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no problems? looks to me like those tires left you stuck in a water hole.

Glad you are enjoying your new bike.

The silly trailwings almost left me stuck in a ditch back home in Iowa shortly after it rained...they definitely don't like mud :)

Nice pic! What tire is that on the back? Thanks Joe

Ya I have two of them This bike is perfect for this kind of ride. Let me know if you need anything before the trip Mini hijak over

Michelin T63

Sorry for the late reply!! Been busy for a few days.

They're no louder than the 700's, at least not that I ever noticed. I have D606's on another wheelset and those things are NOISY (I'll be making a post about those shortly). The 705's stick like a sportbike tire but the 700's do quite well offroad.

The side cases that somebody asked about are Givi E21's. You can get the set with the mounts from Happy-Trail.com (about $400 for the package). I picked my set up used. They're very tough. I've dumped the bike at least a dozen times since getting them and they still work great. I want a set for my KLX250S too because they're tough, small, and relatively light.

Rob

Speaking of D606's... I have a set on my spare wheelset and I've never been that impressed with them. I went for a ride last weekend with a friend, and we ended up on some twisty Nevada trails with fairly soft dirt (not sand but close). I aired down to about 19 F/R and even then, they were horrible. The front end wouldn't hookup and wanted to wander all over the place... then even the slightest throttle and the back end would want to come around too. This was with 15/46 gearing. I was going 15-ish mph because any slower and it'd wash out completely, and any faster and the tires wouldn't hook at all in corners. Letting off the gas ever so slightly is all it'd take to wash the front tire out.

This was surprising since the week before, I was in Death Valley on my KLX250S with Kenda Trackmaster II's and those things were amazing. They hooked up in everything... sand, dirt, rocks, mud, whatever. But the DR was pretty much unrideable.

I've done local rides on the DR with my Shinko 705's and they were better than the D606's in the mixed terrain I rode in. Nothing as soft as last weekend's dirt, except for a few sandy spots, but they did find then too. I don't get it.

My suspension is mostly stock... Intiminators in the forks (stock springs), rear shock was revalved by Precision Concepts some years ago for a 200 lb rider (which is about right given my weight and weight of cargo), but still has the stock spring. I did just add about 1/4" of preload to the rear spring because the shock was bottoming out on larger bumps, and added two clicks of compression. I'll change it back if I have to, but it doesn't seem that like that change would be causing these problems.

Thoughts?

Rob