the DR650 thread

While taking it apart, I did notice a few things that escaped me the first time I opened this up. The first is the main needle. It almost looks like it's bent or crooked.


Having never seen a different one, I'm not really sure if this is wrong or not, but there it is. I also noticed that the O-ring that sits on my float assembly - the larger of the two O-rings that goes underneath my float weight - is able to spin almost freely around in it's notch. Probably worn out. So it looks like I'm going to have a bit more of a shopping list for the procycle folks.

Many thank for the link!

What are you using above the hub and below your "wing-nut"? Some kind of spacer? Large Socket?

Again, thanks. LOVE the idea!

That thing is definitely bent!

What in the hell would have done that? There's only one place where the damn thing could go when putting it back together, and I've never had to force anything when working on this carb. Oh well. Looks like I'm in the market for a new needle in addition to O-Rings.

I wouldn't worry about that too much. What I would worry about is if the float cage does not fit snugly in the carb body, i.e. it falls out by itself, and/or requires zero effort to install, or if the o-rings otherwise exhibit evidence of hardening, shrinking, deformation (i.e. no longer having a round cross-section) or cracking.

Regards,

Derek

Might I suggest an adjustable one?

Regards,

Derek

Ah. I had to use a little bit of effort to pull it out. It was definitely snug in there. So when I was putting the float assembly back into the carb, I was pretty strictly following the pictures from that BST bible post. When it was perfectly horizontal, the float was swinging out away from the carb body. When as I tilted it up to 60 degrees or so, the line on the float was running parallel with the edge of the carb body. Then, when I put the carb flat on the table, the float fell into the body like the pictures showed. I'm awful at explaining anything, but this is what I'm referring to:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

You definitely may. Any preferred source that I should snag it from?

I'll back you up on that. I had a friends DR with the TM40 carb that was kicking my behind with running problems. One of the problems was no adapter ring and the second was the tip of the mixture screw was broken and stuck in the bottom of the hole. No air could pass through and it created some strange running problems.

So with everything put back together again, jacked up needle and all, I got it back on the bike, and she fired up like nothing had ever happened. I let it warm up, verified that it idled without the choke after a minute or two, and took her for a ride. Knowing I have a messed up needle may be inducing some bias in the testing, but the fueling feels a little odd now. Nothing I can really put my finger on, but that's getting replaced, so we'll see. I've also noticed that it pops a good bit on deceleration/engine braking. It's not terribly annoying, and I might just be noticing it now because I usually ride with earbuds in place. Should I just hold judgement on this thing until I get the needle replaced? Thanks to everyone for chiming in on yet another of my little projects.

Well, http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek

What angle-drive screwdriver are you using? A quick glance around the hardware stores in my area showed a few right angle screwdrivers, but they were all quite stubby. If there's a nice, thin one, I'd get that in a heartbeat.

What is interesting about this is that, all other things being equal, which of course they almost never are, if the only change is the tyre width, keeping the same type and construction of tyre, and the same air pressure, as the tyre gets narrower, the pressure at the patch increases, which flattens the contact patch. The net result is that the surface area of the contact patch is more or less the same, but its shape gets progressively narrower and longer. Arguably more relevant when talking about 4 wheeler tyres which of course have a nominally flat tread.

A wider leading edge to the contact patch creates more flotation on soft surfaces. In fact sand is like going up a hill all the time. The tyre sinks in and is always climbing up the front edge. Make it narrower, and its a steeper/deeper face to climb out.

A longer contact patch can add stabilty compared to a wider one. Its why we prefer 21" fronts to smaller ones with wider tyres on our dirt bikes. The contact patch isn't much different in size, but the shape is longer, hence more directional stability.

Make sense?

Hey guys, anyone know where I can get a black rear fender? I've been changing plastics and I've ordered the rear black twice and both times they email me a couple days later canceling the order because its not available. What gives?


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Procycle?

What he said: Procycle. They do full plastic kits and regularly keep black in stock

Thanks ill have to call them. I've seen their full plastics kit but I don't need all that, or want to spend that much lol.


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I use a Kawasaki 57001-1239, which fits in very tight spaces because it has a cable inside a 90 degree bent tube. If you want a cable drive that's more readily available (and really inexpensive) there's the K&L 35-1968, but it's bent just a bit less than at a right angle. Then there is the Motion Pro 08-0229, which is gear driven and therefore not as compact, but has the benefit of using bits, so you can put a variety of different tips on it.

Regards,

Derek

I found this Sigma jet kit on eBay. Haven never heard of them but I haven't looked a lot lately.


Has anyone tried it and does it work any better than the Dino jet, I never could get the Dino jet to work with out stumbling off closed throttle. Every one tells me the Dino jet needle is the prob but that is over my head.

Any other suggestions on a jet kit to try that works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-11-Suz...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d028de276&vxp=mtr

It does to me, but you seemed to use more words