Mine got here quick. And nice ADvice as I tapped into hot behind the headlamp and was getting delta to multimeter. Ran lead back to the batt and got a good match. I blacked the sides in my paint both and used a laying around mount it up - good to know number. Today was overcast so can't talk to direct sun bake out.
Ordered two voltmeters past weekend. Thanks for shipping them on Monday. I'm really looking forward to them. But yesterday (Tuesday), on my way to work, my Goldwing died in the middle of a highway - dead battery or dead alternator. I ordered them one week too late.
This looks like the unit I'm after but I'm afraid the postage to Australia might be a killer. Anyone doing a trip to Australia
Or we could go halves in the postage ? Sanjoh, can you tell us what postage to Perth, West Australia 6152 would be for 2 units? I could then send one to Greendog75 Cheers.
I like the way your thinking Rossguzzi. I'll wait for Sanjoh to reply and then I will PM you or versus versa
Got my voltmeter in the mail and installed it this weekend. Thanks for the quick service. It's in the panel to the left of the windscreen, above the speedo: In my dark garage: Haven't ridden with it in the sunshine yet, but I expect it won't read so well. May be a good excuse to buy a tinted windscreen... Anyway, I'm very happy with it. The wires were long enough to tie into my power outlet, which runs thru a switched/fused relay. I only wish I could buy a bezel for it to hide my hacksmanship.
Here's a temp gauge ( outside) they also have the volt meter for 23$. Now if I could find a led amp gauge match. http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/mini_led_digital_thermometer/64332
I just ordered one. Looking forward to the install. I'm a little concerned about the security of your site. Your home page says yahoo has blocked your ISP from emails, then when I got your email acknowledgement but it's stamped with Warning: This message may not have been sent by: your email. I'm assuming it's just the storefront you use, but would you please make me feel safe and secure? Signed, paranoid schizo
Your information is safe! The site is hosted by the same folks that make quicken and quick books, Intuit.
Ordered mine today along with a on/off switch. Looking forward to the install and rideing with a little peace of mind. Thanks for selling this product. Install pics to fallow .......
Just received and installed mine last night. I was concerned when it read 11.9v (engine off), so I found this thread and read the comments about the inaccuracies/normalcies, etc. Based on my understanding of the issue so far, this is to be expected and I have to live with it. BUT since it supposedly can still be a useful tool, I'll need a little bit of hand-holding to understand it/how to use it with inaccurate readings. My limited experience tells me that when my bike ('08 Ninja 250r) reads UNDER 12.2ish V with the engine off, the battery is dead (won't turn engine over). All my control readings were taken with the same multimeter (Ideal brand from Home Depot, probably $30-40). New battery reads 12.65ish+V (engine off). My current battery is still strong, and I left it on a Battery Tender last night for this test. With engine off, but key in 'on' position, the ADVmonster Voltmeter settles at 11.9v, while the multimeter reads 12.60V. With the engine ON the readings are as following: ADVmonster meter = 13.3V; and multimeter = 14.8V. This SEEMS like a pretty big discrepancy to me. I realize this was a very inexpensive FARKLE, but had I bought a more expensive voltmeter, would I be seeing more accurate results?
Good question... I have a couple leads under the nose fairing that I connect a few accessories to. This way I'm only splicing into the bike's wiring harness once. It's been a couple years since I spliced into the switched power, so I'll have to check the diagram to say for sure what it's to/from. I do remember the splice was made on a wire that runs past the thermostat.... I know that doesn't tell you much. The neg/ground is EITHER from the headlight, OR can be traced back to the grounding bolt in the frame that the starter is connected to. Wish it was in front of me at the moment, but I hope this gives some clues. Sorry so vague.
It's best to check the voltage in the same place when comparing meters. It is not uncommon to have a 1+ volt drop when checking after the regulator/rectifier. Many bikes come from the manufacturer with undersize wiring and/or connectors. I owned an 02 Triumph Tiger 955 for 40k miles, during which I replaced the wiring between the battery, reg/rect and it netted a 1.1 v increase in charging voltage when running above 3k rpms.
Good to know, thanks. I soldered and wrapped the connections, so I probably won't get to it this week; but I'll put that on the list for next time my bike gets naked.