What would you do if you were me?

So instead of preserving what's left file the stub perfectly flat and square, without touching the flat spot that keys the spark advance, find the center and carefully punch it.
You can check whether you're centered by turning/cranking the engine over and watching the punch mark.
If it's centered it won't move, if it isn't you'll be seeing a circle.
(A light punch mark can be adjusted if it's off center by punching right next to it and letting the punch forge material into the first hole)
Use a small drill to start with and have a helper, with a good eye, tell you whether you're going straight in on the plane that you can't see.
It'll help to remove the front wheel and fender, or go all out and remove the forks ( Now there's another can of worms ).
Slow and steady does it because a broken drill bit is far harder to remove than simply drilling a straight hole. Use cutting oil or at least some sort of lubrication to keep the drill from biting and breaking off, ditto for when you tap the hole.
Work your way up to the right size, tap it and either install a stud or just use a bolt.

Pat yourself on the back for doing a nice job.

Pictures for the rest of us would be great too.

OK .. It's alive ... it runs .... it runs ...

Considering it was only 25F that night, I am very happy about what I saw




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mgumfna_eI




And ....NO, it was hold up by one drop of super glue.

I received the bushing from Paul yesterday, and put it in good use this evening.













It will be tapped with 4 mm threads tomorrow....

Top Shape!

What a brilliant idea. Is the bushing made of aluminum ? Looks that way in the picture.
That certainly takes most of the stress out of a very stressful situation.

Nice job by you and Paul.

Done and Done !!

What's next challange?

So after this drilling and tapping the original thread was replaced with a stud so you could attach with a nut? How come you don't just install a bolt? Would seem easier and no different that what you have. I don't see any advantage to the stud? What am I missing?

It does look great, just wonder about the use of stud.

The stud was loctited into the new threads, and this way ... is much better for future removing. I think !!

A nut is easier to remove than a stud because of fewer threads. I wouldn't trust a bolt that only engages 5 threads but a nut is designed to hold that way.
Also, if the bolt seizes in the hole he just get's to do it again.

Ah. I see your point now. Thanks.

Time for some house cleaning and make some space in the garage ....

Also .. need $$$$ to found this project ...

Starting with this ...





3 hours later ...

Those would be on ebay soon ... PM me if there is anything you can put into good use.










Just like that ... there is one less airhead in the world for good reasons.

But I understand why.

Atleast you didn't cafe it!

OK, this thing is up and running.

She runs like she is only half her age.

It's time to make her looks pretty ...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eV6IsqvZF-U

Thank to jonnycash gave me a /5 frame. Can you see another running /5 here?

Another slash 5 re-born.

i understand!

thanks
dan

Clearly enough someone didn't read the whole thread


Put the frame onto the engine ... it looks good

For some reason, it only took me two hours to put it back which was included a bathroom run, some ice cream, and few texting (damn ... do people ever call each other those days?)

































So .... What would you do if you were me now??

OK, she wasn't heppy about I am working on "another" project so this rolling chassis has to go.

It's on the flea market sectioni, and $500 obo.


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881635

Keep moving forward, don't give up,...... ever. Here is a photo of my newest project, yeah, it's missing a few parts but I'm looking.