That doesn't look like a carb part. Are you sure it wasn't there on the floor beforehand? Looks like a curtain hook. You can look at Bikebandit for a carb diagram: http://www.bikebandit.com/2001-suzuki-dr200se/o/m5826#sch242686
That's good news. I was hoping that was the case however a couple other pieces fell out too and I did find their places so I was worried I wouldn't get this back together properly
I just used about 100 of those damned curtain hooks.I hung to sets of curtains that have the pull strings to open and close them.How it made aboard a motorcycles is way beyond me.
2008_DR200SE_maintenance One of my DR200SEs ended up sitting unused for about a year, with a tank full of gas. To get it going again, I started with the battery (a flooded acid) which was empty, so I tried adding some acid and charging no go. New battery in hand, I checked the oil level, which looked OK (no sign of gas leaking into it) cranked it over, and no go. Next, I changed the oil, pulled the carb and sure enough it was looking gunky. Both the float bowl and top of the carb had stripped screws (thanks previous owner) so I cut slots in them, got them out and replaced them with socket head hex screws. Inside, the carb was gunky (needle valve was literally blocked shot) and the screwdriver slot in the pilot jet was stripped to the point I couldnt get it out (thanks again, previous owner). Everything else came out OK, and I took the carb body in to a local shop where they drilled, tapped and extracted the jet. After a soak and blow-out, I re-assembled the carb, got it back the bike with the pilot screw set 2 turns out. After sitting overnight, the gas tank was empty and the crank-case full. Looks like the petcock had started leaking, but the blocked needle valve kept the gas in the tank. Next oil change, and the addition of a fuel cut-off valve between the petcock and the carb. The bike started and revved fine. Once there was a load on it though, acceleration, there was a little bit of surging, as it wasnt delivering power through the full ramp-up. Once it warmed up, it wouldnt hold idle. I brought the pilot screw down to 1-1/2 turns, and checked the floats. They were just shy of 14mm, so I flexed the tab on their arm and got them in right at 13mm. Idle was now good, but still, when I hit the throttle on the road, I d feel these drops in power while accelerating. It was rideable, but not perfect. Next check air filter and spark plug. Wouldnt you know, the air filter box had gas in the bottom, and the air filter was soaked with it (and starting to deteriorate at the bottom). The spark plug had dry soot on it, and I replaced it (checking the gap). I grabbed the air filter off another bike, and boom things are worse. It starts, it idles, it revs, but when I take off under load, it cuts out more significantly. Ive also checked thoroughly, and there are no curtain hooks anywhere in the bike. Any tips of other things to check would be greatly appreciated.
If the float needle is still flowing after you cleaned the carb, it still needs attention. it should be able to stop any fuel flow. If not, it may be rich. The leaking petcock is suspect as well. Sometimes the vacuum diphragms will leak, and the engine and/or airbox will fill via the vacuum line, regardless of whether the carb is getting fuel. The jets and passages in these carbs are tiny, and sometimes take more than one cleaning to unblock a stoppage.
I think one of the best moves I did was to add a fuel filter between petcock and carb. Even after I cleaned the tank twice it still catches junk. I consider it the first line of defense in what your fighting now. I try to run Stabil or similar gas treatment in my small bikes as they don't get frequent use/fresh gas. End of season: disconnect the fuel line before carb, turn petcock to "prime" and empty the tank into small clean container - fuel goes in my truck.
Just saying hello. Picked up an overpriced 01 this week to commute and blow off life. First DR but not first bike. Fun rides these 200's. I kept it at my shop last week but have since brought it home so I can get something done at work. Joe
I decided that the front end suspension wasn't really lighting my fire. Apparently, for all the years that the bikes been around, Racetech had never done one. So, I sent the front forks off to Racetech's R&D department. Got the bike back together and took it for some single track riding this past weekend. What a huge improvement with the new springs and gold valves!
If you don't mind me asking, what did that run you? I've been dreaming up putting a KTM 200 front end on this thing, with a big 8'' Baja Designs race light and a works performance rear shock. Light weight do-it-all set up. LOL! Just too much $$$ for that though. I got my bike running right now, bumped up the needle one notch and it's great now. Quick ride around town and no bogging, gets up to 45MPH no sweat! Renthal CR-high bars are great, FMF exhaust is LOUD! though. Kenda K270 rear is nice, need to get one on the front now, too. Saw what I think was a DR650 today ride by me, same color combo as my bike. Fun little bike!
Mine probably isn't the best reference point for price, since part of the deal was they would have them longer and provide a discount for being the guinea pig. Looking at the invoice and comparing to other bikes that I had done in the last year, I would estimated total package was +/-$500 (parts, labor, fluid, return shipping). BTW if you do end up shipping to them, the forks fit nicely in a long gun pelican case..
Yes, it is possible to achieve the rated mpg for this bike... My last ride came in at 106.2 mpg for an 80-mile round-trip. I have been trying to break the 100mpg barrier on this bike for some time now. Usually get high 80's to low 90's on it, and a couple of nights ago and found the time to do an evening ride, with relatively calm winds and flat terrain with good pavement. The trick is to go SLOOOOOOWWWWW: about 38 mph is ideal on my (stock) gearing. I do have a Spitfire windshield, which does help aerodynamics a tiny bit. Tires are Shinko's 244 (50/50 dirt/trail); run premium gas (93); everything else is stock. As most of you know, the DR200SE is quite susceptible to head-winds, hills, load, and acceleration, so the mpg can be all over the place. 38mph may be unrealistic for most everyone on the highway, but it is good to know you do have the range, if you ever need it. Also, keep in mind that on the dirt trails, 35-40mph is about as fast I would like to go.... For reference, at 50mph, I get 84 mpg. I'm 200 lbs, 5'8'', so as they say, "... your mileage may vary..." ;-)
Hi.He could find an exhaust on dr200 to buy native from FMF expensively. Whether there are replaced mufflers on our motorcycle
Hi all, I bought 2005 DR200 last year. My wife and daughter love it. I am 6'4" and it is a bit compact for me. I think I should check the valves. I tried searching this thread for the valve adjust procedure with no luck. I apologize if this has been posted before, but does anybody have a pointer to the valve adjust procedure? I would assume it is pretty straightforward since it isn't a bucket/shim design. EDIT I found this procedure on the DR350 thread. Is this also applicable to the DR200SE? DR350 VALVE ADJUST PROCEDURE "Just checked my valves yesterday. Remove the tank, remove the two plugs on the stator/rotor cover, remove the rocker covers, and I removed the coil for extra clearance. Remove the spark plug and rotate the crank shaft with a socket wrench in the direction the motor runs ( counter clockwise looking from the left side ). Watch the intake valves open then close. Then slowly continue to rotate the crank shaft and watch for the " T " ( top dead center ) on the fly wheel through the small inspection hole. You should be able to feel that all the valves are loose now. Use a feeler gage and check the valve clearance. You should get a slight friction drag with the gage. I set my intake valves on .003", and exhaust on .008". You might want to bend a 8mm 12 point box end wrench and make a sguare drive tool to make it easier, but it can be done without it. Put it back together and your done." Thanks
It's about the same except for the gap. The clearance for both intake and exhaust tappets on the DR200 is .08 to .13 millimeters with the engine cold.
Thanks Klay, I will give it a go. There is a lot of great information in this thread. Next farkle is a windshield to give my wife a little nicer ride. I see some people have used the Spitfire s-06 with success.
"Can you post a pic of your Spitfire, and model # if possible? I would like to add one to mine :)" I haven't gotten mine yet, but there is a picture on post 652 in this thread. It is the Spitfire S-06. Here is a link to the manufacturers web site: http://www.slipstreamer.com/Product/Sport/sport.html. I called Slipstreamer and they recommended this model too for the DR200. Motorcycle Superstore and Amazon have them.
Just finished installing my new 16 t front sprocket, the bike hauls my 120 lbs around just fine with the higher ratio, and still has enought uummpphh in the lower gears for the off road jaunts. On a separate note, have any of you had good luck with any kind of bark busters/hand guards etc? I am getting tired of sore knuckles in the woods.
Yikes. That's a little much for right now. Sounds nice though. I rode the bike to work Monday/Tuesday. I can get to work in 4 minutes! :eek1 Haven't rode much, though, waiting for gear to arrive.
It seems I've developed an oil leak. I don't think it is from the head gasket, as oil seems to be leaking onto the TOP of the head? Do I still need a new head gasket, or can I just clean with MEK and then put sealent around where I think the leak is coming from? I'm getting really tired of the crap that keeps happening on this bike. So much for "ready to ride" Yeah, after I replace every damn thing!
