Hello there folks! I'm gonna be in the market for a new ds bike at the end of this year and before I read this thread I was 100% sold on the TW 200 but now I'm give'n the lil dr a look. I need a bike to take the place of my honda ruckus and my kawasaki ninja 250 (two for one is the only way the wife would go for it). For the most part it will be my work bike with a small time spent on the trails so I may want to re-gear it some. Whats the best combo for say 80% street and 20% dirt? Also what do you guys think of the Kenda 761 tires? They came stock on my ruckus and worked well but i'm not sure how they would be for a bigger bike.
Have you given the XT250 a look, also? It's a little more money, but it should be a little better on the highway. I'm very satisfied with the DR200 and I ride it virtually every day.
Yea I've looked at alot of bikes in the 200-250 class but I tend to see a snowball affect as far as price. You get a better bike for each $500 to $600 you go up in price till your at the price of a KLR 650. I want to keep the price low ($4000) I only have a 30 mile round tirp to work on a two lane back road. The fun part come on my days of where just 5 miles from home is The land between the lakes state park with tons of camp roads and trails to check out! Fun and slow is what I need!
The DR200 will be perfect for you then. It's good at 55 mph, and it's perfect for exploring cow trails and wandering down dirt roads.
I recommend you look for a used DRZ400 or even a used KTM 400 EXC. You should find them under $4000 USD. The six gears on the KTM will do you well on the road. Both have power enough to deal with traffic and for those times you might use it on a highway or dual carriageway or if you should happen to carry a passenger.
Front Rack Holy Cow! There's a front rack!!! A front rack! I bought my DR200 SE 2007 last May. Just rolled 6400 on the odometer. I had to have a custom made rear rack b/c I couldn't find one. That's so awesome! I like your bike, I like the round headlight too. So what about the dual stand for these? Think I could find one and put it on mine?
sure the stand would be easy, have to get it from australia tho. Serviced her yeserday, had been standing for a month or two on the showroom floor. Here is her slightly stripped down to get to the tappet covers. And here is the inlet and outlet for the oil cooler, next to the oil filter cover.
It looks like the oil cooler is not simply a bolt-on accessory for the US bikes. The lower opening exists on my DR200, but it looks like I'd have to drill and tap the engine case for the upper line, at a minimum. Shucks.
Klay, Looks to me like the clutch cover would need to be drilled/tapped. Or a replacement from OZ, NZ or SA where they sell these bikes. I wonder if any of the inmates in these countries could get us a price on the needed bits? Andy
would you actually get any pressure at the outlet? You guys having problems with over heating, or you think it may increase engine life? On a similar note, what sort of mileage do these motors reasonably get before a rebuild is in order? Think you could safely get 20 000km out of them. Obviously depended on a lot of factors.
Hope im not flooding you guys there, here some more pics of the dfferent mounting points The front engine guard mounts non-exhaust side of bike, upper mounting points the lower mount point, which also holds the front of the skid plate. here is the rear mount point for the skid plate, taken from the opposite side of bike rear rack mount point, you can see where it mounts to the rearest part of the frame the front mounting point, its directly behind the "200" sticker, on the exahust side. On the non exhaust side it mounts in the same hole as the seat mount, so the bracket therefore has unequal length legs, the exhaust side being shorter than the other. lastly the rear is bolted to the plastic work
Easily. My DR200's former owner put 36,000 miles (not km, you do the math) on it. At 24,000 it lost a crankshaft seal and subsequently the crank itself. A freak occurrence IMO. At 37,000 and counting it is still going strong (as strong as a DR200 can, that is)... Use good oil and change it frequently.
Aye, we get both variants. If you can get parts numbers from the fiche, (dunno if the mrcycles fiche has farm bike parts too,) I'd be happy to get prices and arrange this end, in return for a few bits and bobs from the US. 16T front sprockets, for instance, are impossible to find here, same with suitable screens, tank bags. But some sort of reference for part numbers would be a must -- recent experience sourcing parts suggests that I need all my ducks in a row before speaking to anyone.
Wow, three in a row. A new record for me. I decided to put the cherry on the top of the rebuild run-in with a gentle jaunt through some local forest. My son was begging to tag along, so along he came. If you're running low on father-son schmatlz, I blogged the ride. Ew. Did I really just use the word "blogged"?
hey hillbilly, if you like to dr200 go for it. i can cruise anywhere from atv trails to the interstate. it's by no means a highway warrior but if you got the balls its a blast to fly past traffic on a 200 lol. i regularly ride it about 100 miles round trip (rural interstate) avg about 70mph (65-75 with wind..) its all about the preference, i prefer to have a blast and feel like i'm going 150 when in reality its 75, much safer, same rush. plus you can't veer off the road onto whatever trails u find on a crotch rocket. but i've also owned one and got my fill, so do what ya want, i'd recommend a ride on someone elses before u dump the cash though
I have tried searching this thread for valve adjustments on the dr200, sorry if it is already on here. But does anybody have a link on how to, pictures and clearance would be nice.
Intake and exhaust are both .08 to .13 mm. Adjust when the emgine is cold, and rotate the engine until the piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke. For pictures, PM me your email address.
Further to what clay said, Must remove side panels, then seat, then fuel tank. You also then remove the valve covers, generator cap on side (think its a hex 10mm), and the inspection cover above it. Turn the engine with a 17mm spanner(i think) through the generator until you are on the compression stroke and the black line in the inspection cover lines up. First time i did it i found it a little difficult to get the feeler gauges in as they have to be slightly bent to get under there.
