That video looks great, but gives me that uneasy feeling as I sit here in my "oriface" with my leg propped up in a full length knee brace. That is definately a session in looking where you want to go.
Not related to the starting issue but............ If u running the factory pipe.... take the end cap off cut out the reducer in the opening and you will REALLY enjoy the 530...........
[ Originally Posted by Chowdown i just cant seem to get my 530 "just right". its been desmogged, jd jet kit, shorai battery. its just bloody horrible to start when its cold. its almost as if the compression is too high for the starter, pressing the start button typically results in the starter engaging the motor, but stopping as soon as it gets to the compression stroke. once its there further presses of the starter result in the starter engaging but the motor not spinning. if i push through compression using the kickstarter (i can rotate the engine by hand cranking the kick starter) then the starter will spin the motor until compression again and then stop. after 3-4 attempts of this it will finally manage to push through compression and then start. i will say its never not started, but i could also say i have very little confidence that it will start, to the point that i dont want to take it on any trips. ive used the stock battery, then purchased and used a turntech battery, and finally tried the shorai. i dont believe its a battery issue. anyone had starter motor issues? i can hand crank the kickstarter to turn over the engine, so its not that tight (its still a struggle, but doable). battery is good. i dont know what else to try, ive thrown a bunch of money at it (trail tech stator, turn tech and shorai batteries, suspension for my weight, rad fan, bar risers) and love it to death when riding it. but, i have no confidence in the damn thing starting and dont want a repeat of the last time i took it away for a long weekend and ended up holding up my group each morning with starting issues. I Have the same problem and never be able to resolve the problem !!!!!
The rider's helmet doesn't move AT ALL while he is riding. Not even slightly. This cannot possibly be a real video. Look at every other helmet cam video, and you will notice that even videos taken on a paved road involve camera shake when the camera is helmet mounted. There is a device called a Steadicam, but you will not find one of those mounted on a motorcycle helmet, unless Godzilla takes up riding. Also, there is no spray of snow coming off the front tire, which if you've ridden a dirt bike in snow you will know happens because the knobbies pick up snow. The video of the ridge was taken with a handheld camera which was attached to a helmet ( this is why the helmet is so steady even though the bike is bouncing around ) and then that video was used as a background over which a second video of a dirt bike being ridden was superimposed. The video is faked, in other words.
You are kidding right? Have you ridden in snow? There are 1000 different consistencies of snow, and I assure you, in 400 of those, there is no snow tossed forward. You clearly don't have a helmet cam. Watch the orange beak and chin guard of the helmet shot with my old Contour camera, which doesn't move. There is some speculation of the authenticity of this video, but the camera angle makes it look worse than it is. Not saying I'd ride that, but there have been people here saying that they have ridden off the sides. Fine if you don't believe it, then just enjoy it for what you think it is (or don't think it is) <iframe frameborder="0" scrolling="no" width="640" height="360" src="https://api.smugmug.com/services/embed/1667894027_X6rzpNW?width=640&height=360"></iframe> <iframe frameborder="0" scrolling="no" width="640" height="360" src="https://api.smugmug.com/services/embed/1117165181_T82au?width=640&height=360"></iframe>
Im 100% sure its real on this one. But, more importantly, he is not riding a 530. There is another thread discussing it here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758473 and we have already gone through the disbelief stage and started just calling him crazy as a shit house rat... ps. That is why the new go pro is named Hero.
I think this video is fake. We do not get snow or ice in Canada. Those metal things protruding from your tires are clearly CGI By the way, Ive been looking a set of those tires on kijiji
Do it! The still shot and one of the videos (in my last post) are from last year with a crappy tire, this is this years tire, which uses the same Fournier Ice racing screws that the Kijiji tires use. They are mental! <iframe frameborder="0" scrolling="no" width="640" height="360" src="https://api.smugmug.com/services/embed/1663156236_DJXnVV5?width=640&height=360"></iframe>
Finally got around to installing the lowering bushing on my bike. When Robo installed it on his bike, he wanted to run the bushing in the lowest position, so he had to remove quite a bit of material from the swingarm in order to create enough clearance. Was really not comfortable removing that much material from the swingarm (pics of another install here), so fiddled around with the bushing until I found the sweet spot, where it was as low as I could get it, without having to do anything more than sand a liiiiiittle bit on the top of the shock mount and on the inside of the shock clevis. Left very little clearance, so used a dremel to grind a small groove into the shock mount, hoping that might help clear-out the grit and grime. Just thought I'd post some pics for reference in case it might help anybody else. Spent about an hour installing and reinstalling that bushing, getting it set up just right.
Man! I don't care if it is real or fake, CGI or animated some other way. It was fun to watch. Now back to 530s. I spent some time looking over the back yard (Superhero Proving Ground) where "the incident" occurred. I noticed there were no tire marks where I slid the bike in the grass. I would have thought the Dunlop D606s would have chewed up some turf. :eek1 The only chewed up spot was where my left boot dug in and the left foot peg hit the turf when the bike went down. Are D606s that hard?
jesusgatos, You removed no material from the swingarm hole---right? It's just an optical illusion that makes it appear that the hole on the lower picture is eliptical and the same on the upper picture is round---they are both round----right? Also, What is the hole drilled in the top for? Is it to fit a grease zert or what? Is there room for a zert when the shock is mounted?
No, nothing removed from anywhere but the lightly filed/sanded top portion of the shock mount and the inside of the clevis. Clearance between the shock mount and the shock clevis is reduced when you install the offset bushing, and the amount of additional clearance (grinding/filing/sanding) all depends on how you orient the bushing. The small hole on top is just drilled/tapped for a set-screw. The X-bushing uses a bolt with a zerk fitting in the end of it (think that's optional -> extra money).
I have had a issue somewhat similar to yours, my friend pointed out to me that my throttle twist grip did not have any play at all, you know the 3-5mm play the manual talks about. The twist grip without play open very slightly the throttle butterfly which gave the more or less what you describe as your problem. Might be worth to check your twist grip play.
Okay wiring experts I have a question for you. On the first page of this thread Ned shows all the stuff he removed, and a quick pic of how he jumped one of the connectors to facilitate removal of the ignition and allow starting without a key. I think I need to do this too, but my set up is different: The OEM stator in a '08 530 EXC-R, in stock form, runs the lights off AC power. The stator also supplies DC power to charge the battery (for starting). So when the engine is off (key on) the lights are out. Engine on = lights on. I can, and have, left the key on for weeks, and am still able to start the bike with the e-start. This was a nice feature, especially for guys with CRS. However, AC power will blow a HID headlight, and I doubt will play nice with heated grips. I sent my stator to BajaDesigns to be rewound and provide only DC power to the lights and battery. I now have a TrailTech X2 HID headlight, and heated grips, all running through their much smaller handle bar mounted switch, which also incorporates the KILL switch. The OEM switch was nearly 2" wide, and had a separate KILL switch. I did give up turn signals and horn. Not a big deal for me. The new switch also allows me to turn the lights off completely, OEM did not. My problem is, when I unplugged the large OEM handle bar switch from the connector block behind the headlight, the tail light goes out. Brake light still works. The new TrailTech handle bar switch runs directly to the battery, to run the headlight. So the tail light gets its power separately. So I think if I was able to figure out what to jump in the now disconnected (2x3, 6 position) connector it would work.. Fast forward a bit - I took a wire and started jumping contacts within the connector, and ended up with a "zap" in the air box. No big deal, I replaced the fuse. So my question is: should I try to get power to the tail light by splicing in to switched power somewhere? or is it as simple as jumping contacts in one of the connectors? and if so, can someone post a good pic of where to place the jumper? Wait til you see my Hi/Lo/Off switch mount for my grips... Test ride at Juniper Dunes this weekend!
I know there is a "how to - what for" on doing the valve adjustment on an 08' 530 EXC-r here somewhere yet the search mechanism did not yield success. I know there is some sort of mount or something that may cause interference in doing such adjustment / check and am interested in the work around. Since I am off of the 530 for a while longer I could do some of the preventative checks and stuff with my spare time.
I need to get some sort of tutorial on how to change tire / tube. Everytime I have tried this I end up chewing up the tube. I have some good spoons from Pro Motion and even the fancy little valve stem threader gizmo. Looking for some tips tricks from the more experienced inmates.
I know Ned has a procedure here somewhere. I think Jimmy does a pretty good job too. I like how he installs the tube and lines up the valve stem and rim lock first. http://youtu.be/t7jOKy8AzLc <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/t7jOKy8AzLc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
In this clip Adam uses grease on the tube instead of baby powder. It does make sense, allowing the tube to slip out of the way of a pinch flat. Has anyone done this? Lube is used with bib mousse to reduce heat build up. I'm tempted to try it next tire change. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/n6roPN4QoAs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>