Ok guys, I need some ideas here. First off, new rectifier works flawless, so we all know we can pull off that cheap upgrade. I need some input as to why the hell my bike keeps flooding and dying out. Still won't really idle right, lower the needles and it won't hardly run at all, raise them to the center clip and it runs than floods out and quits. I have sealed all the vacuum leaks, the float height I think is correct, ignition is new, have set the valves, etc. It seems to be happening on the right cylinder. Oh yeah, it starts on the first kick with no choke so I know it is rich at idle, but dropping the needles doesn't change that. How does the airscrew deal work? Can I try lowering the needle on just one carb? Any ideas? I am stumped. Regards, Weirdo
Hey Weirdo, I have been lurking and enjoying your build as well, I like both fancy stuff and more simple things as well, so we're on the same page here. Your carb issue kinda sounds to me like a float valve not closing properly or a leaky float. Have you noticed if the floats get gas inside? You have to remove the floats and shake them, if there's gas in them you either dry them out and solder them or replace them altogether. Also make sure you adjust the float height to the correct specs, it cannot be guessed. ...oh, yea the needle only matters off idle. Keep up the good work, with a bit of patience you'll get it running right! Marco.
Cool man, thanks for the props. I know you are one of the guys that have been around since the beginning when I couldn't even post pics. Much appreciated. The floats are solid, I have had them out and check for leaks. The float valves are good too, one had a small ridge that I polished out and they both seal. I have kinda been guessing at the float height... Can I measure it with the carbs on? School me.
nope, you have to get them out... again! I know, right? PITA, but it has to be done. remove the carbs and check with a caliper, I do have the specs in the manual at home, but i believe you could find them with a little online search, if not, let me know and I'll look it up.
It idles!!!! Number one, thanks Marco. I didn't measure the height the way I was supposed to... but I did lower the float just a bit and that took care of the flooding. THe other part turned out to be very interesting. Time and again have seen people post that you need to put the slides in facing the right way, with the ramp on the correct side. Well, duh, thats pretty easy..... after finding another thread on here about a CL175 that didn't run I learned that there is ANOTHER ramp on the slide, on the bottom and it faces toward the throat. Somehow either I or the PO had flipped the slides from side to side. So, while they fit that little ramp on the bottom was facing backwards. Explains why I had to put the idle screws all the way in to raise the idle, and why is was so eractic after setting it. Fucks sake.. I never would have found it if it wasn't for that other thread. Flipped the slides, lowered the float... idles like a champ now. And rides a whole lot better. Seems to have a small miss still, but I think another set of plugs will cure that. I have to take the seat off to look at some wiring so I will post pics of the rectifier, etc when I do. Thanks for the input Marco, it got my bike rideable.... Hell Yeah!!!
Nice! Now get out there and ride the snot out of it! (bring a screwdriver with you though, you're gonna have to adjust those air screws...). Cheers!
I just swapped the plugs and rode all over the place for hours!! Going to do a plug chop tomorrow, but the bike feels great throughout the whole band. And it IDLES at a stop now, so I can expand my circle rather than riding around unused streets hoping I don't stall out at a stop sign. The bike sounds entirely different now too for some reason.... And, wonder of wonders, I need to use the choke to start it. Yes!!! Anyways, some updates... I needed something to use for tank badges. I intend to get some Honda wing decals at some point, but the dollar store again yielded up something useful.... Also here is a pic of the $12.99 rectifier. I know I go on about clean wiring, but I wasn't able to weld a mounting tab in on the day that I installed it, so it is what is is for now. I tested the battery after riding and it is at 12.5v with the bike turned off after riding and using all the lights. I think I am going to do some LED bulbs in there to lower the draw, but at least I know it can stay charged now. I would prefer to see 13-13.5v at the battery at rest, but 12.5 will do for now. You can see the big fat ground to the battery I added in there. And a random working on the bike pic. Idle!!!
b.t.w I would have gone and put a small heat sink on that rectifier just to make sure it doesn't overheat. There's a hole through the middle of those things for a reason.
Agreed, well whenever I get that mounting tab made for it..... right now it has quite a bit of air cooling, so that should keep it for a while. Tab is in the to do list though.... Maybe a small chipset heatsink as well. I should put my hand on it after a ride come think of it. Hmmm....
Another suggestion is to use a peice of metal attached to the frame, but use mica washers between the rectifier and the peice of metal being used as a heat sink on the frame. If you do this don't forget to put washers under the head of the bolt/the nut as well just to make doubly sure there's no electrical contact between the two.
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/uXr5d-kWxeY" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" width="425"></iframe> Ideas gentlemen?
....wow the pipe does sound good! ...hard to say what the noise is, but I would definitely take the tappet cover off for that right exhaust valve and check the clearance again, I'm gonna state the obvious too 'cuz sometimes we miss the simple things, so make sure that the oil level is ok also. good luck, M.
Well, if they're out of spec, they will be noisy either way, hot or cold, check the specs first, if the clearances are in spec, then it must be something with the rockers or cams...
If it ain't the valves, timing chain perhaps? I replaced mine w/new when I got the valves done, but old ones do wear. Not necessarily fatal, IMHO, although I'm basing that on my CB350F which has had a timing chain rattle for about 8 years now... Bike is looking good, and exhaust is killer!
I am suspecting the timing chain at this point, something to think about during next winter. I played with the tensioner and all that, still noisy.... But, since it runs and drives I figure that can wait till the snow flies when I do a rebuild. Thanks for the props on the bike and the exhaust!!! Hope yours is coming along too. Later.....
Well, I broke down and bought a set of clubmans. The homemade bars were killing my hands. All I can say is..... wow... What a difference in comfort and in handling, love the clubmans. Also adjusted the float in the left side carb jut a bit as well, plug chops now show both cylinders running a perfect mix (was still a little rich on that side). Oddly enough the bike is even quieter now, runs smoother, and seemed a little slower.. then I realized I was banging through the gears in no time at all and the clutch is slipping a little. Think I may have picked up a litle power there. Oh I should say the exhaust is quieter, the intakes sound crazy now. I am going to adjust the clutch and see what happens, will grab pics of the bars when I can. I must add that it never fails to amaze me at ow sensitive these bikes are to float height. I have never encountered this before.... tricky tricky..
That is a great CB 160. I have just joined Adventure Rider am enjoying reading all the great information about the CB and CL 160. A few weeks ago I found a 1966 CL 160. The man who I bought it from had it in his open but covered shed with other stuff, e.g. chevy engines, etc. The motor turns, but is missing many parts such as the gas tank, fenders, headlight, etc. But, it is a great project to work on this summer so I have taken up the challenge. Anyone out there have a good used gas tank for sale? I will post pictures soon. Thanks
Hey Harley, welcome to the forums and the thread. It's always nice to see someone else with a 160 join up and chime in. I've got a CL myself, i's nice to see another member building one. I don't have a spare tank for you, but spend enough time on here and someone will eventually. Lots of aftermarket parts like your fender are pretty cheap on Ebay, otherwise scrounge scrounge scrounge... thats what I did. Can't wait to see the pics, and we are here to offer help when we can. Later man...
Great! Thanks for your offer Scrambler Weirdo. I suspect that I will need considerable advice so look forward to further discussions.