Here is the finished product. I bought some basic plumbing and electrical books and did it all myself. Ran all the electrical with conduit. Many people ask why I didn't run the wire in the walls. When I started I really didn't know where I wanted to put stuff like welders, air compressor, ect. With the conduit it is very convenient to add electrical any where you want in the future. The heated shop side. I used the overhead radiant heat system. Runs on propane. This heater is very efficient. I have only used 30% of a 500g propane tank since November of 2011. I usually leave the heat on around 55 when I am not working in the shop. But the winters have been kinda mild this year and last. Plumbed everything with pex. I was amazed how quick and easy it was to work with. I think it took longer going to Menards to get all the stuff than it did to install it. When I eventually get an air compressor it will go in here also so the noise will not be so bad in the workshop. It will be were I was standing to take the picture. I also have a small door in the wall behind the Kegarator where I can access the CO2 bottle in this room. The storage side. The storage area above the workshop. Notice the electronic device on the green cabinet. It is a signal booster for cell service. I can get full strength signal standing outside but inside the all steel building with the doors closed nothing. This device works great. Has an antennae outside and inside to boost the signal. I think I bought it off ebay. http://www.wilsonelectronics.com/store/display/40/46/db-pro
Thanks for the replies. Next thing I would like to get is a cycle lift. I see lots of different types in this thread. Does anyone know how well the lower cost Harbor Freight ones work?
I've had my cheapo harbor frieght lift for 6 or 7 years now, and I've never had a problem with it. It'll hoist my fat old ST1100 off the ground without hesitation. One of the best / most usefull tools I have ever purchased, hands down.
Do you know if they make the side extensions for it? I have ATVs I would like to be able to fit on it also. Or do you think it would be possible to fabricate some home made extensions on each side? I'm guessing it would handle the weight if it handles your ST1100.
Fired up the new heater today : and installed a new shield on my R1150R 20,000 BTUs of sweet heat had the garage toasty in under 10 minutes. Once I insulate and install wallboard, it will warm up even faster. I'm torn between doing 5/8 sheetrock or tongue and groove panel siding.
Sheet rock way easier to modify and do add ons down the road in my humble opinion. Nice heater by the way
Sweet shop! A man that has his own crapper is very happy. I almost expected a latte machine and microwave on the counter... Darren *It's a KLR, I'll catch up*
Is that galvanized pipe and fittings you're using for gas line? Looks awfully bright. I prefer OSB over drywall, as it's durable. With primer and paint, it looks really nice. Poweranger's is a perfect example.
I also was thinking of using sheet rock, metal, or osb. With osb you can attach brackets, hangers, ect very easily. It is more durable than sheet rock and doesn't dent like the metal panel liner will if you bump it. If you do use osb make sure to prime it with a oil based primer first. The glue in the osb will bleed through a latex primer. I tried the latex at first and it just didn't cover well at all.
OSB is manufactured, using water. Anything water based will "re-activate" any product used in its manufacture.
Here's my little slice of the garage. The wife's side has a scooter and a purple kayak. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
That would explain the bubbled and peeling chips of wood I had when I tried the latex primer first. I didn't realize it was actually because water is used in the manufacturing process.
Do you have a problem with condensation in the garage using that ventless heater? I had one in my last garage and couldn't use it more than 10-15 minutes with out every thing ending up wet.
I, once, had a supervisor take me through an OSB plant, while I was there. I was blown away by how much water went into the production of a sheet. It's a great, recycling use of wood chips. I, periodically, work for a painter. Any kind of instantly-water-affected products or water-caused stains will be susceptible to water, in the future. Therefore, it has to be sealed with oil-based primer, before applying anything latex. I'll try to remember to take a camera over to his shop, next time, and get pictures of the texture we put over his OSB. It's difficult to tell that OSB was used and not drywall. It looks really nice and finished. I think if more people see what can be done with it, they "might" more readily consider using it. I've seen that a lot, in sealed areas. The space definitely needs some kind of airflow, to rid the moisture.