6 weeks on the KLR

I had first seen this KVR on ADVRider , and had to include some of it while going through the area .Its late in the day when I first get on it , but it doesn’t matter how far I go as I have everything I need with me on the bike. I passed several nice campsites and keep going. A really nice looking twisty paved road runs along part of the KVR, and at times I am tempted to ride some of it. The rough going in places allows my gas can that I had been carrying since the Dempster fly off the bike at some point. So I ride about 30 km of the KVR and when I hit Otter Lake and see the great spot I decide to stop for the night.

The next day I continue on wondering where these tunnels are. Soon enough I go through the first one. I think I saw an interpretive sign also that showed what’s up ahead. I was a bit concerned about riding on a route that had been signed in such a way that I felt motorcycles were prohibited.

I went through the next tunnel and got onto the pavement at Princeton and then Summerland road. The rail line can be kinda slow going on a loaded bike in places and when I got onto Summerland road and then saw the gates that I would need to open and close to access the rail(farmland), the nice road sucked me in and I cruised on it for quite a ways. What a great road! I feel that the Coldwater road and Brookmere would have been equally great had I not been on the rail there, but I think I missed going through one of the tunnels by skipping that chunk of KVR. I went past Chain Lake, Osprey Lake, and at some point the road turned to hard-pack dirt and I got back on the KVR, went over some cool bridges before rolling into Summerland. I hit the Tim Hortons for coffee and looked at my map. The KVR was cool, some parts are rough, some are great scenery, and I enjoyed riding the parts that I hit. Lotsa campsites along the way too. Made it without being busted for riding a motorcycle on it.





So here I am bombing along Okanagan Lake going north, thinking this is cool. I go from a town, travel through the boonies and camp out, then pop out on the other side and hit the pavement and hit civilization and Tim Hortons coffee, and now am scenic slab riding up to a big metro area. What a great bike, I am seeing a lot of the stuff the road bikes and RV crowd is seeing, but then seeing so much more and at the same time doing it way way cheaper. Fuel , food, accommodations. Got’er beat all the way…..


Once I get up near Peachland etc, I find a nice area along the waterfront and fill up my water jugs, stop for a bit. Shoulda took more pics.


So I read on the Site that Westside road is a good one. No kidding! I really liked motoring along here going north. I stopped halfway for some lunch with the other riders who were out .Can't eat noodles and tuna all a time.




Saw a lotta bikes and sportscars on that road. I pull into Kelowna for some stove fuel and what-not. I just missed the classic bike show and talk to some of the attendees. Nice H2, I used to have a couple of them….

I connect from Vernon over to #6 and down to Fauquier and ride the boat across. Its getting near suppertime as I roll into Nakusp for fuel and some local knowledge. The St.Leons hot springs are no longer open to the public according to the gas attendant.



The Halfway springs are nice though, I get some directions and motor on north. I find some vehicles parked on a pull out about 13 km in from the pavement. I ride down the steep hill and find a spot for the tent and in a short while go for a soak in the hot springs. Another perfect day. A bit of off-highway stuff, some super pavement, a big Quesadilla for lunch with the Harley riders, pick up supplies and end the day soaking in the springs and free camping. Not bad at all.

I'm sorry for the dumb question, but, where were the last couple of posts written about? I lost you at Graham Island.

Great report! Can't wait for more.

I never took enough photos to do a really good Ride Report that covers every detail and place.Some of the RR has big chunks of the actual ride missing. But I tried to include some of the highway #'s so if you are able to look at a map of BC you can see where I was. People familiar with the area will know exactly where I went through. The last few posts were about the Kettle Valley railroad that goes from Merrit BC down to Princeton, and from there over to Summerland just north of Penticton.I guess I failed to mention the towns surrounding that area....hope that clarifies it. Thanks for pointing that out!

In the morning I go for a pre ride therapeutic soak. What the hell. I load all the crap back on the KLR and the bike winds over r e a l s l o w , backfires a few times and fails to start. Damn battery. I crank some more and on the fourth attempt it fires! I go north and catch 31 which becomes hard pack dirt and head back south around Trout Lake. I stop and check out the vintage pumps. Again, more great riding , no semi’s- no RV’s.



Vintage Gas Pumps at Trout Lake

Trout Lake on hwy 31 going south

View looking back north....before crossing the Lardeau River....

This is great, climbing up high along the lake, I rode into a few side roads just to see if I could waypoint a few campsites and there were some great ones but they were occupied and for long term stays by the looks of it. I follow the Lardeau River down past meadow creek and run the great pavement down to Kaslo. More supreme riding.( I met a few bikes on this road.)



Arriving in Kaslo......

I ride south and pull into Toad Rock. Its too early to think about camping but a good place to juice up my battery.

Balfour- Crawford Bay

At the ferry I have a half hour to wait for the boat to come and talk to the personnel and some Vstrom riders. Earlier I had asked about the Grey Creek Pass and all I was being told was a German tourist had tried to get through in a rental car a few days or a week ago and had gotten stuck right bad and had to dig the car out by hand. Another report was a 4x4 had gotten stuck goin through and maybe made it.


Leaving the ferry and heading to Grey Creek General store....

I was told to ask at the store about the Grey Creek Pass. Its open(the pass), its already 5pm and I head up there knowing I have all that I need with me and will ride as far as I go, however far it may be.

I see the sign. Warning signs at the head of a road are always a good indication. I begin climbing up and up. This is great, as I recall people asking me why I would go all the way to BC on a 650 dirt bike. This is why, I think.


I get to the summit and see the snow remaining beside the road.



There is one section on the way towards Kimberly that is rough where they repaired the washout. Otherwise it’s a piece of cake. I see a river on the GPS to my right and the first dirt side road I explore for campsites leads me this great spot.About 20 km west of Kimberly.....


Another super day of riding, nice camp spot again!

A view of the river from the campsite as the sun fades away..

I awake very early and ride the short ways into Kimberly and its so early, nothing is open. The downtown has a cool Bavarian theme, and there is a big accordian festival going on. I wish it was not so early, but I ride south towards Cranbrook and pull into the big casino there. I go into the resatraunt at the golf course pro shop and have coffee and toast.



I enjoy my coffee at the ritzy place. I like stopping at places like this sometimes. I had my nights sleep for free, yet I am having my toast in the same place as the $100 a night folks are.
Next I ride up to Fort Steele and connect onto some back roads in order to avoid the main highway. Hardly no traffic, and crossing over an interesting bridge, Bull River I think.


Bridge over Bull River...cool



I get back on the main highway near Galloway and ride the slab into Fernie.

I had stopped in Fernie for a while and visited some friends there. Earlier I had asked at the casino about some routes in the mountains and one guy gave me some really good info , but told me to ask at the tourist info place, or the highway maintenance building. Some of these gravel roads that lead over the pass are prone to washing out.

Side road at Bonnie & Clyde cars
I began going up Hartley Lake road, just northeast of Fernie off of highway 3. This would climb up quite an ascent and connect to the Bull River road. On the way up I stopped and took a break, and saw some old “Bonnie and Clyde” vehicles laying there.

the old cars


This is great riding back here, as I head north on the Bull River road. I stop to check out some nice campsites along the way. I only saw one other person on this whole ride up, until I got past wherhe logging was taking place on the Whiteswan road.

Great campsites up here with no one around at all. It was late in the day but I still wanted to go further hoping to find something as good tonight.

Perfect backcountry riding!


Monroe Lake along the way.


Logging area behind Whiteswan

More nice riding


Whiteswan Provincial Park


I got to Whiteswan Provincial Park and rode a bit more to the Lussier HotSprings. I stopped briefly and there seemed to be a lot of people there, so I opted to try and find the Ram Creek Hot Springs which should only be maybe 15km to the south of here.

Hey H! Nice report!

I zoomed in on my gps and fooled around with it, spending more time looking at it than the road. I had maybe an hour of daylight left and was getting ready to call it a day. I figured 15 km should be a piece of cake. Well, there is a road that does go there in a reasonably direct way, but I missed it. I took the one on the west side of the valley and rode quite a ways south almost to Premier Lake PP before I was able to cross the valley. I came upon some farms, some paved road, a sign ROAD CLOSED , before I started climbing up again. I went up the roughest knob-rock rubble road of the entire ride so far. I hope I don’t hafta come back down here to get out. It was a good climb up, and just at sunset I arrived at a small clearing where a couple was camping with their SUV. I was beat. I set up my tent and assumed the hot springs were nearby. I had a simple dinner on the stove, and then walked up the road further to where the springs were located. It felt good to walk after that ride today. I was walking up the road and just arrived at the pool when a small Honda civic approaches me from behind scraping the bottom every few feet. The 2 french girls ask me ees deez whar da ot spreengs are? I say yup! Come on up! I could not believe the car made it!------------------------
The springs are not very hot so you are able to stay in a lot longer than the other ones I had been to. The view from the pools is worth a million bucks, soaking there after a days riding. Free camping and soaking.
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Next day
The next day I planned to ride the closed road back up to Lussier Hot Springs, on the east side of the valley.
I followed the terrible nugget road in first gear again and dreaded to have to turn around. I thought the road closed sign was for keeping the traffic down to the springs, but soon enough the red flagging tape appeared and the first barricade to stop people from driving further.
I rode over it just fine and some more rough stuff, and then came to the part where the water was flowing down the road and it got kinda treacherous……
Then the water...

Now when your out riding, you don't want to get all buggered up alone with a fully loaded bike, but at the same time ya wanna have some challenge. I saw so many ADV style bikes on my trip that were spotless, and the riders were not leaving the pavement too much. I wanted to see the backcountry, but not get in trouble back here.
Going downhill into what?

welcome to ADVRider! LOL ! maybe I'll see ya again at the hatchet rally

Great report Kari, as always. But tell us more about the two French girls and the hot springs....or do I have to stop in at chez Hekto for details?

Got pics????















Great report Kari. It's the first thing I look at each time I log on. I like your style.

I met you in Hot Springs a couple years ago. You gave me a DVD of a trip you and your brother? took and it was a hoot.


Kenny

You are doing it up right lad. The best reports are always the ones where the rider interacts with the local folk at every opportunity. The further you get off the beaten path, the more you see and learn.

Great job...and thank you for taking the time to share

You should'a called. I would have come up and rode a day or two with you. It's about 250 mi to the ferry on Kootenay to my house. Maybe that is why you didn't call. LOL

It sounds like you are enjoying the KLR.

It was the short chat I had with you that inspired me to begin exploring Mexico.I could tell, by the fire in your eyes, that I had to go down there too.

I shoulda called. We will ride again Loco Viejo ! some day....

It took some time, but I now I do like the KLR....