Here are the videos I mentioned before. This guy changes a lot of tires, so he makes it look easy. But it still should be doable in an hour a wheel. Oh, and don't wear a white shirt. The wheels he's working on are very clean. Yours aren't. <object width="640" height="480"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/qw0B2gIwbBg?version=3&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/qw0B2gIwbBg?version=3&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="480" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object> <object width="640" height="480"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/mTatadVNA-c?version=3&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/mTatadVNA-c?version=3&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="480" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>
Neduro's Tire Changing Class: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717&highlight=Neduro+tire+changing After years of poor success spooning tires, I read this thread back when I first bought my 950 in 2005. Then I went out and practiced pulling tubes in the comfort of my barn until I got it right. The reason I went to all this work is because I was going to run a 5000 mile event that would require me to change tires by hand. The change took place in a gravel parking lot in the Yukon. After I changed mine, I was invited to change a couple others! Dang, I felt like a rock star If you take your time, use a little soap (WD40 works), and are careful to use all the well, there should be no struggling. If you are using a lot of force, you're not doing it right. I use 8 inch spoons from Motion Pro. I have a 13 inch spoon as well, but I don't need it. I generally need about 50 lbs of air pressure to pop the rear bead, which is a big tire. The front doesn't take much, though. A squirt of WD40 is handy. I'm sure this thread is full of contributors that spoon tires routinely. I apologize if this is a 205
Yes it does vary with the tire putting it back on. On tires that aren't super stiff I put the on from the same side like you describe most of the time you're correct. And like I said before a 5 gallon bucket with the wheel sitting on the open end makes it so much easier.
To get the bead to seat I ended up spraying soapy water all the way around both sides and just kept putting air in it until it looked right. I couldn't get it without the soapy water allowing the bead to slide up. I also found the rear quite a bit harder than the front.
I always put the tube into the tire first. And when I install the tire, the valve stem goes in first. Easy. I've changed 40-50 tires that way and haven't pinched a tube yet.
...Link here. Will pay for itself in band-aids for knuckles after a couple of rigid sidewall knobbies:
Snapped it the first time I went to use it.......P.O.S. tool in my opinion........put the tube in the tire first My new single track weapon (300 XC-W) has the Tubliss system.......so now I'm just carrying plugs when riding that bike, but still using Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Duty tubes in the WR250R.....2 flats in 12K miles at low pressures (~10 PSI)....
Hmmm... How hard are you pulling on that steel cable? Been using mine for over three years - couple times a month on my bikes and on others' tires we change here - never a problem.
I just changed out 2 rear tires on my x.. both knobbies. I saw those videos a few years back & have incorporated several of the techniques in my own. I don't have the nice stand, so i end up doing it on the ground or floor. But here are important details in changing. I got both of mine on at Tom's a couple of weeks back in less than an hour total. 1. Warm the tires. It was a sunny day, so i set both of the tires in the back of my truck in the sun to prewarm them. I've also put them in front of a radiant heater to warm them up. ..makes it a lot easier to handle. 2. Some air in the tubes. Like Doug's video, a little air in the tube makes getting the valve stem in a lot easier. 3. Powder in the tire & tube. I just sprinkle baby powder inside the tire, then rotate it around a bit to spread it out. I usually do it after one bead is on the rim. 4. Get the bead down in the wheel. If the bead hangs up on the rim, it will be impossible to spoon it on. You have to be sure the bead is down inside the wheel well. ..both sides. 5. I don't soap the whole rim, but only the last foot or so as i spoon it on. It lets the tire hold on the rim without the bead buddy. I got a bead buddy a couple of years ago & used it, but i don't have one on the trail, & I also like alternate solutions.. I push the tire on & spoon a couple of sections until it starts to get hard. Then i spray on the window cleaner, spoon the rest, done. It's probably better to lube the whole rim.. it seats a little better that way. 6. Doug did not break the bead on my shinkos. They are a very stiff bead & sidewall & took me a lot of time to break, with my full body weight & some hammering on the tire. I took the tire spoons & pushed the bead down, & hit the sidewalls with a 2# hammer while applying pressure. Some time it takes 2 spoons & moving it around. Breaking the bead is the toughest part on some of the stiff rear tires. I'd like to see him break a bead on a teraflex with his fingers! 7. Pay attention to the details. When learning a new skill, it is the details we often miss when doing it. Those techniques make a difference in easy or hard. 8. On the trail, a bit of water will do for rim lube. Few of us carry windex. A small can of wd40 is a good idea.. i have one when travelling, for cleaning the chain. That would also work for lubing the rim.
Okay, listing my mistakes: It was a cool day, no sun available anymore, no heater available. Tire was really stiff (D606). Didn't even know that one. I guess that was the main problem. The tire was so stiff, I couldn't get it in there, so it was probably sitting at the side of the rim (also why it didn't pop on). Of course. Maybe I give the rear a try on Saturday or Sunday if it is sunny and I can warm it up outside. Will also try to get all the other things right then. It also seems to me that the front might be real hard because it the rim is so narrow and the tire so stiff that it's hard to push the bead into the middle of the rim. Thanks for all the hints.
well honda did not out do yamaha...no surprise well maybe a lower seat height. http://www.visordown.com/motorcycle-news-new-bikes/tokyo-honda-crf250l/19469.html
Oops! I kind of like it, but not for me. My girlfriend has an XT225 and I have been wondering what a suitable replacement for it would be besides a newer Super Sherpa. I wonder if it is coming to the states because it doesn't look like it will to me at this time.
Well, I won't say Honda didn't outdo Yamaha until I see the price, weight, and fuel capacity. Its conceivable that it ends up costing somewhere around the current CRF230L's $4999 (which is beyond absurd for that bike) and the CBR250R's $3999 there's a good chance of it selling really really well. Also, very interesting to see both KTM and Honda playing in the small dual sport market along with Yamaha and Kawasaki. Maybe this means a new DRZ400S or DR sub 650 is coming soon too?
depends on: 1) how much it costs 2) how much it weighs 3) maintenance intervals - hard to match the WR250, but the CRF250R/X with race-bike maintenance schedules has no appeal. At $5,000 max MSRP and 250lbs with CRF230 maintenance requirements, it would get my attention.