DR750 & DR800 owners thread

i bought a new frame last night and will be taking it to be epoxy powdercoated tomorrow (in illegal high gloss powder that my mate has stashed ) once thats done im simply going to have the 2 frames side by side as i transfer stuff over so itll be easy :)

regarding removing the old sticky residue left by stickers, i personally use petrol but their are proper cleaning chemicals you can get. Im just a tight wad though and petrol is always in my garage :) works a treat. just chuck some on a rag and rub it over the glue thats left on the plastics, hey presto. Then use some silicone polish or something to bring it back up shiney

Go here to see how someone did just that.

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=21629.0

He's a member on here too, just work a lot harder than me. Fellow countryman of mine... and a mate.

Right ive been having a chat with talon engineering and they have a lovely cush drive equiped hub which i might be fitting to an excel rim for the big. Im trying it without the cush drive first but.. if required at least i can get one :)

I made a right balls up last night, i stripped a talon wheel from my cr500 as i wanted to put a new rim on it as the old one was a bit scabby. Started to lace it only to find "what the f****" why isnt it lining up correctly?

DOH!!!

The talon hub has 36 spokes and the honda rim i had ordered was just 32. Arse biscuits!!!! i hadnt checked them. Embarrasing

so remember, measure (count) twice, order once! lol

fitted the BIG with a plastic tank, an Acerbis for XT600. it almost fitted without changing the frame, but i finally decided to cut off the ends of the original mounts and drill 8mm holes just a click forward and up of them. then fitted the acerbis mounts on a 8mm threaded rod and on it went.

the rear end of the tank had to meet the hot air gun, modified it to fit the original seat /holder configuration, improvised there a bit with the mounting and padding but now it all fits perfectly together and can be removed fast without tools pretty much as fast as you can remove the fuel hoses. i like it!

the tank has a place for a toolbox in front of the seat that the DR seat won't cover, but i may attach some plastic sheets to the seat to fix that. other than that, it fits rather well optically too. there seems to exist a bigger model acerbis tank for the same model XT600 that does not have the space for toolbox, but i'm not sure it's possible to fit that one without changing the seat mount configuration.

<a href="http://nagi.ee/photos/jusskan/13552515/"><img src="http://static1.nagi.ee/i/p/542/10/135525150e3de8_o.jpg" border="0" width="640" height="480" alt="Foto NAGI's: acerbis4"></a>


just enough space for everything to turn
<a href="http://nagi.ee/photos/jusskan/13552523/"><img src="http://static1.nagi.ee/i/p/542/10/135525230b8139_o.jpg" border="0" width="480" height="640" alt="Foto NAGI's: acerbis3"></a>

<a href="http://nagi.ee/photos/jusskan/13552503/"><img src="http://static1.nagi.ee/i/p/542/10/13552503b198c0_o.jpg" border="0" width="480" height="640" alt="Foto NAGI's: acerbis5"></a>


fitted an XT600 front fender too:
<a href="http://nagi.ee/photos/jusskan/13552479/"><img src="http://static1.nagi.ee/i/p/542/9/13552479646ab1_o.jpg" border="0" width="640" height="480" alt="Foto NAGI's: acerbis8"></a>


next thing to get rid of is the massive structure of the IMHO pretty useless headlight and non-working speedo. haven't found a good headlight yet though, so it'll all have to stay on until then..

there are a few more pics of how it looks tonight here:
http://nagi.ee/photos/jusskan

i'm in a hurry, off to sauna and beer.


BTW, today it was -15C outside - and in the barn-garage too.. so i really enjoyed the parts of the job that included hot air gun

that's why i have no pics of the mounts and stuff - i was already too cold. i may make some and post here later for anyones interest.


cheers, juss

Hi guys, I am back from my ride up north.

I know I am going to get a lot of flake for this, but I rode up north using 112 main jets after just 1 test ride.
And it was good going, response was like when I took it over stock.

Top speed was 170-175km/hr needle bouncing.
Good power delivery (lots of torque without the sudden surge using 130 needle)

Milage's better too. Just above 13km/litre

I still get loud backfiring when I close the throttle suddenly.
That means unburnt fuel in the exhaust fumes right?

Anyway my Rational for using the 112 Jets is this.

1st clue: My Mech told me that at full throttle, the tip of the needle will still be in the jet.

So after meditating (I really did meditated on this for a good 10 mins )
I concluded that I needed a smaller jet.

I figure that as long as the amount of fuel coming out is the same as the original setting, using different size jet and needles shouldn't have too much effect on the bike.

Imagine a doughnut made using a fixed amount of dough.
If you were tasked to make another doughnut with the same surface area using the same amount of dough, but with an smaller hole in the center of the doughnut, what do you do?
Ans: Reduce the outer diameter of the doughnut.

I did notice that the bike burns up engine oil during the trip. 1/2 litre over the 2,000 km trip running at 120-130km/hr. I knew the bike was burning up oil before the trip, just didn't know how much, because I changed the engine oil twice before setting off. Once when I first took over the bike, and again before the trip, all within 10 days, totalling only about 700km travelled for 2 oil change.

The ride north was nice, lots of padi fields and mountains along the way.
But I dropped my bike on the way back at the customs. My side box clipped the concrete barrier and the bike went serving right, going onto a kerb before toppling over.

I got some sundry products for my mom and aunt. So all in all it's not a bad trip.

Can anybody tell me if the whish bone on the rear suspension is the same length between centres on both the '88 DR750 and the '91 DR800.
I know the all the bolts and bearings are the same.
The part No. for the 750 is 62600-44B20
" " " " " 800 is 62600-44B21
I'm thinking of getting two made up 25mm longer to lower the back end.
Appreciate any input.
Cheers.

Ausie, as far as I know the bore stroke was upped , the tank changed andthe rear spring itself was the only changes. the wishbones are the same. If I am wrong Bluesman and others will enlighten us.

C`mon Ausie , where`s the pics , I wanna see the old girl

Nearly there mate. I've already taken her for a ride and was really impressed. Just waiting on the painting and then licensing. Will post photos when I get the plastics back and fitted.

Sorry guys but this have for shore been up befor but I can not find it so her I go again
what oil type du you use Mineral, Semi syntetic or fully syntetic

Its done, I bought the Wilbers! Including the ride-height adjustment option. Now I just need the bike back from the guy who is doing the stainless-steel-exhaust-thing for me. Can't wait! I'll get back to you how it works out.

This is my 600th post.




I thank you.




Seasons Greetings!

Hello there,
an important point for Juss and everyone else with a high-mounted front-fender: Make sure, that you refit the sheet-metall-bracket of the original front-fender. Otherwise, your forks will tend to turn under heavy braking! You could go even one step further by getting yourself a better bracket like the one from Hessler's DR Big shop. Once, you could get a bracket from ES here in Germany consisting of a clamp for every side of your fork and 2 short cross-tubes to connect these clamps. Very fine built and very exact to adjust. And without the possibility to fill it up with mud and block your front-wheel while riding off-road very slowly.
Ok, maybe, this point counts most in Germany and our high traffic-speeds which make hard braking more necessary. But it's mentioned in our German forum everytime, somebody announces to install a high-level-front-fender.
Kind regards, Bambi

I use any semi synthetic car oil without low friction additives (due to the wet clutch). Usually the argument against fully synthetic oils is that they do not have the capacity to do many heat cycles.

I would recommend you us a low grade non synthetic car oil or better still a semi or full synthetic Bike oil no lower than 10 grade ( I used 5 grade once but motor was noisy )

Welcome home 800rider. Some of us were beginning to think you had died. Good to see you're alive and well.
And with the engine oil, I've always used mineral oil 20W50 because of the heat here. But I've never liked synthetic oils anyway. I think it's just a personal choice one makes. I would rather pay $30 for 5 liters of Caltex or BP 20W50 than around $80 for 5 liters of some synthetic brand that's advertised on the side of a race car.
Cheers.

I think I have read every single oil thread in www. No wonder why they are called oil threads!

I now use an SF or SG 10-40, I asked the guys who did some of the work on the top end, and it's what they recomended for an old air/oil cooled single.
Also will start changing oil and filter every 3000k instead of every 5000k.

Yep I'm Alive and well but thanks for the concern
I have other loves that I have been pursuing http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10038107&postcount=1
But I will return and catch up soon and give a report on my last DR trip

PS, I agree regards your oil choice in regard to the grade, but I will admit to having a fetish for thin synthetic oils because your engine makes more power ( and noise with them)

Thanks Bambi for bringing that one up.

Agree there mate, my 750 has a brace and new mudguard this time round after revamp. I had a high mudguard on and without the brace of any kind the oil seal went in one of the legs . I never felt any twisting etc. but I cannot put it down to anything else

Motor oil.
This is a must read.
Google this cs all about motor oil, then after the page comes up click on
introduction to motor oil chapter 1, then keep reading all chapters.