the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. amitos23

    amitos23 Adventurer

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    Thanks for the reply,

    I was looking again at the manual and it seems it should go in first:

    [​IMG]

    I think I will look at how the older one installed when I take the cover off and report,

    Something fishy in the fiche :huh

    Amit
  2. ThomasVolomitz

    ThomasVolomitz New Old Stock

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    Jerry you have a nice looking DR there. Enjoy it!
    Today the Ohio ADV group is doing a dual sport ride. I am taking my 650 and the sun is blaring down. Pretty great situation for Feburary!!!
  3. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

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    Couple of things to try:
    If the gas was old or had been sitting for awhile the pilot jet may be gummed up. Try a healthy dose of a Techron additive for a tankful (the little bit in the gas won't do it). Or the carb may just need to be removed and cleaned.

    Also the stock DR does not like lower RPMs and will make all sorts of horrible noises if you try to give it much throttle when the RPM is to low. Keep the RPMs up (over 2500\3000 if you have a tach). When in doubt downshift.

    Also the chain can make a racket (and sound like engine noise) when loose and hitting the rear chain guide. Don't worry about it if that is the cause (it will quite down with time). Tightening the chain will cure the noise but it is easy to overtighten the chain, which is much worse. The DR chain has a way of going from too loose to too tight when only moving the adjuster one notch. So error on loose.

    Good luck :freaky
  4. procycle

    procycle ~Retired~

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    You have it right. It is undesirable to allow the sprocket to float on the shaft. While floating won't really hurt anything right away it will cause more wear in the shaft than if the sprocket is held firmly in place. The chain wobbles and whips around enough that it is a very unreliable way of locating the sprocket. What you want is the other way around - to have the sprocket keep the chain aligned.
  5. Motodeficient

    Motodeficient Been here awhile

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    Great, glad to hear I have it right! Thanks for your response, as always.
  6. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    I buy the Power Sonic, PTX9-BS from a local industrial battery supplier for under $50 and it has lasted 4 years. It's time to be replaced now though. Doesn't hold a charge well. For the price, it is a great buy.
  7. ADVBedouin

    ADVBedouin Been here awhile

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    Cycleman, not sure what your primary riding will be; mostly onroad or offroad?

    If you mainly want a street legal dirtbike for offroading, but will do 100+ mi tarmac sections getting there, then go DRZ400S & install a Sargent or Corbin, (or widen the stock seat 2" yourself w/ car upholstery foam). If you mainly want a comfortable long-distance or backroad touring bike to also explore dirtroads, then go DR650. The Laminar BKing windscreen fits/works great as a wind deflector on both DR & Z headlight nacelles.

    I love my DR, but my stock Z was very capable & very fast offroad with excellent suspension/power, & not bad on long highway sections either. My pal bought my Z, modified it extensively, Corbin seat, etc, & road it 50k miles down to Patagonia, around NZ, Aus, southeast Asia, etc, so it can do long distance well. You really can't go wrong as they're both great bikes, just decide what you really want it for. Other inmates will have some good advice for you too...

  8. Nibis

    Nibis Where to next?

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    Well, got to ride today, put a few miles on and filled it back up, got 46.30 MPG
  9. KaceCoyote

    KaceCoyote Pass the queer more beer

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    Honestly, the DRZ and the DR arent worlds apart.

    The DRZ has better brakes and suspension, the DR is arguably more durable, more powerful and with an aftermarket tank has much longer legs. The DRZ is more agile, vs the DR which is pretty stable.

    That said I've played around with friends who have DRZ-400SMs and my 650 made short work of them with my GP1s on. I'd bet it takes a much better pilot than your average joe to really utilize either platform to the point where the bike's limitations really tax street performance.

    That said the DRZ felt pretty quick to about 40-ish. I like both bikes, but I bought the DR due to durability and highway capability. It'll go anywhere the DRZ will, it just wont do it as quickly or as cleanly.
  10. Nibis

    Nibis Where to next?

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    Ahh, well hell, I just ordered a TM40, it's only money, right? Hope Procycle sends me one of those nice yellow coffee mugs, (hint hint, nod nod, wink wink)
  11. MotoPundit

    MotoPundit MacGyver

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    The TM40 was the best cash I ever spent on my DR.




  12. LXIV-Dragon

    LXIV-Dragon Been here awhile

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    Sorry I guess I was wrong! When I did my NSU way back I took them all out and just replaced in the same order but honestly thought I recalled putting that plate in last.....!
  13. malokam

    malokam Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the detailed reply. Yes, the right side brake pad is worn out much more than the left one (probably half the width) and they are actually new. I replaced them when I bled the brakes back in November and havent ridden much after that. Inner side of the rotor looks much better. The ouside actually has gouges on it when I checked this morning.

    As far as I can tell, no shelf damage to the HUb due to bearing replacement. Because I was very careful and also the spacing looked the same on my stock wheel when I crosschecked.

    I think you nailed the issue. Should be a problem with caliper piston. The piston not adjusting might be adding to the problem. Plus me being stupid and not checking that when I bled the brakes and replaced the Pads.
    (The brake calipers, fluid, pads, nothing was ever serviced by the PO if I am not wrong. )

    So, should I get one of these?

    http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#calkitrear


    Now, I am guessing bad chain adjuster alignment and caliper piston issues

    That shouldnt technically have any effect on the rotor position right? Either way, thanks for pointing that out. I will change that.

    Okay, will do. I will be getting a new rotor. I dont want to take any chances with brakes.

    Again thanks everyone for the replies.
  14. ride4321

    ride4321 Long timer

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    I'm getting ready to pull the plug and order a bigger tank, the 4.9 IMS seems the best bang for the buck and would be big enough for my needs. But I'm still thinking I'd probably get by fine with a good spare tank to haul on longer trips . For the most part the stock tank does the job, just have to stop for gas more often. Anyone traveling distance with the stock tank and carrying a space fuel cell? The ATV type (flat rectangular) that you can bolt onto the bike (top case) would be my backup solution.
  15. LXIV-Dragon

    LXIV-Dragon Been here awhile

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    I used the IMS and a Rotopax last year on the TAT.

    I was very happy with the IMS and never actually needed the extra gallon in the Rotoapax although came very, very close! My last fill in Port Orford was 4.929 gallons in a 4.9 tank!!

    The Rotopax is a great fit on the Wolfman rack - shown below - but the filler spout is crap! I did hear they offer a no lock alternative.....

    [​IMG]
  16. ride4321

    ride4321 Long timer

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    I've seen that setup with the Wolfman racks but I just put HT racks on and there's no room there for a Rotopax. I think I'll probably just buy the tank. It's cheap enough and really could be a lifesaver. I'd like to do the Tennessee section of the TAT this spring and doing that with the stock tank seems like a bad idea.
    Nice setup on that bike, is it yours?
    I was very close to going with the Wolfman racks and bags but HT had a great deal. After I got my kit they had a Wolfman kit for the DR with racks, Expedition bags and the tankbag for a good price (mid $400's I think). Sort of wish I'd waited another couple of weeks to order. Oh well, I have a lot more space now with the HT cans.
  17. Nibis

    Nibis Where to next?

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    I think the IMS tank is perfect, fits really well, and is a must on my list. The other bigger tanks need braces and or limit turning
  18. kbuckey

    kbuckey Long timer Super Supporter

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    I have the same setup as LXIV-Dragon and it works well (except the filler neck is crap). I haven't needed it often but if you're halfway across eastern Colorado on the way to Byers on a Sunday morning and you have a 30-40 knot headwind blowing sleet and haven't seen an open gas station all morning and the beast has just spluttered to a stop after reserve - with 35 miles to go to Byers (also known as The Nearest Town) you are really damn glad you have the IMS AND the extra gallon. Oh and it took well over four and a half gallons to fill the tank when I got to Byers. Headwinds really screw up the MPG.

    I'm thinking of the new Acerbis!
  19. LXIV-Dragon

    LXIV-Dragon Been here awhile

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    yup my bike :D

    Note the TAT start has changed to Tellico Plains TN :deal

    The Wolfman stuff also took more than reasonable abuse.... here is one of my many 'offs'.... an an other foot and she would have been over the edge!

    [​IMG]

    RR here btw.
  20. joefromsf

    joefromsf Dark Happens Supporter

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    Funny, I just order the self-venting spout yesterday. http://www.rotopax.com/Self-Venting-Spout.html. Reasonable price and, surprise surprise, even reasonable shipping $1.95.