Sorry you mistook my attempt at comedy as retardation. Ive been asking for the offset since the first post, just didnt know what to call it. The chain is new and has the same lateral movement as the stock chain. Youre still trying to fix my rub issue, possibly I should have left that part out. Just tried to throw a story along with my post. Again, Im only looking for the offset of a 5"x17". Dont care about how to fix the chain rub.
you can adjust till' you turn blue.... there ain't enough room for that 5" and a DOT 160 in that swingarm... the manufacturer's don't even recommend putting a 160 on a 5"... you ever look this up?.... all the squids gotta do it so the tire looks wide and flat... you aint even getting the right profile when you're turning, on the side of the tire.... adjust farther towards the brakeside, and then the tire rubs the swingarm... there's pics somewhere of guys actually taking a piece outta the brakeside of the swingarm and welding it up to get the clearance needed.... keep adjusting... get a belt sander and take it to the outside ridge on the tire... that should get it.... .... i mean, what could happen?....
http://d136nqpz68vrmx.cloudfront.net/digital_assets/MichelinPilotRoad3ProductInfo.pdf They absolutely recommend it.
no they don't... they say 4.50" (4.25" - 5.00") it'll work, but the profile is not gonna be as good....racebikes don't have tires w/flat profiles, it doesn't work when you're turning on the side of the tire.... down side of this is your ass sliding across the asphalt... you know, that mushy mix of your jeans and blood mixing together.... bossman... we ain't even mentioned the rim gettin' chain slapped either... try to find a 5" Behr rim on a KTM sumo that ain't slapped.... it pretty much doesn't exist.... all the KTM SMR's came w/165/65 dunlop KR(?) race slicks on 5" Behr rims, and they fit and got slapped like mofo's.... the SMR's were track bikes, and then people put stators and lights and batteries on them and got plates.... i went thru all this for a coupla years til' i got mine all together, trying to figure out what works, readjusted the rim over to the brakeside, even used the beltsander... dumb shit.......... 4.25" Behr take-off rim from zack at woody's, laced it to a KTM cush hub, put on a 160 Metzler M3. the metzlers and pirellis both have profiles more like race tires...... very sweet rig, bike is way more rideable than w/a solid hub, and it freakin' hauled azz.... i switched it over to a dirt rig last year, i'm ridin' in the dirt more so... i still got the sumo rig... do whatcha wanna... i'm tellin' you what works.... look up those tire specs for metzlers.... slipper clutches are almost a must too if ur gonna go real fast....
Hey! I grew up there...you must show proper respect and use its correct name...Flatistan. All joking aside, the 4.25 rear is the best choice for 98% of the people out there, and the people with more skill than me say it makes the bike turn in better. But I do enjoy the challenge of taking something a little further than the average person will, so post up pics once you get the 5" sorted.
Has anyone found a replacement fuel pump for these things? I would like to get one to carry as a spare on long trips and KTM only sells the whole assembly for a whole lot of money.
Ca Cycleworks Fuel Pump for Husqvarna, Husaberg, KTM with 4-Hole Square Fuel Flange is available for purchase in increments of 1 http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/fp-hus-5633
Here's my 14 with a 5" warp rear and 160 Avon Distanzias. I have about 5mm of space between the tire and chain. I'm not sure how to take a rim offset measurement but I'd be happy to if you explain it to me.
Looks killer! I guess the magic questions are: Is the rear just the standard way Warp 9 builds them, and does the Distanzia have a different profile than the dedicated Sumo tires the other guys were using?
The warp rear is the standard 5" rim they build. I'm not really sure about the profile of the distanzias vs other 160 sm tires as these are the first 160s I have used. I have a wr250x with a 4.25 rear and 150 bt03's and that combo offers a slightly more rounded profile for sure.
Since we're sharing shifter porn, looks like a rivet that will need to be ground in order to replace the knob.
Im not positive if this is the correct way but it is and will be the way I do it, lol. Using a straight edge (I used fishing line tucked into the tire bead at 2 points since the wheel is still together and on the bike) from the edge of the wheel rim to the inside of the sprocket close to the hub. It gave me 16mm. Bike is beautiful by the way!!
5 bux sez this guy's never gonna know what turn in is.... should take this to supermotojunkie, way more 20 yr. old sea creatures w/shiny bikes and new tires there..... they got cooler decals there too..... ain't even gonna talk about 14mm triples....
Trust me dude you ain't all out in front with your knowledge of supermoto and riding. Ive been on a bike since I was 5 and Im 43. I've not missed many days of riding in those 38 years on just about every type of motorcycle or the last 6 on a supermoto. The current set up has been on the bike for 10 months, I'm not having any problems keeping pace with anyone and I keep company with very fast, experienced riders from all parts of the country. I have an understanding of everything you mentioned and you're just regurgitating what someone else has told you. Turn in, tire profile, contact patch, ok I missed the term offset but I have never had to deal with it before or built a wheel before. I only claim to be a great rider, wheel mechanic is new to me. That happens when you build a supermoto instead of buying one off the shelf like my last supermoto. I dont ride in jeans, I'm not a squid trying to get a fat tire on my bike, I ride fast... extremely fast, the profile is not flat its exactly the tire that should on that bike and wheel. Putting a 160 on a 4.25 wheel causes ballooning which is a much less desired condition than what can only be explained as slightly flat, but not really, for how and where I ride. Im perfectly happy that you have what you need on your bike accept the fact that I have what I need. Im not looking for an answer to any question except for the offset so when I rebuild the wheel I'm close to start off with. The rest of the story was just that, a story. I get it, no one wanted it or got it. Fine. You telling me it's not going to happen is wrong, wrong. I didn't just dream up a wheel combo and throw it on because I wanted to be in the cool group of kids. I researched what was needed for my style of riding and wound up with what I have. It's not plug and play and I realise its going to take some effort to achieve the perfection I insist on. So please man, get off it. As it turns out my offset is incorrect and is the majority of the chain rub issue. Once that is addressed and the chain is no longer into the tire and properly aligned the other fix is I need an aftermarket chain slider to stop the lateral movement of the chain slapping the tire. That's all. No Swing arm grinding and belt sanded tires. Don't just assume I need my hand held in the entire scope of supermoto riding because I'm asking questions about one aspect of wheel building I know nothing about. I'm trying hard not to feed the trolls but wtf dude.
That's why you put a 150 on a 4.25" wheel. Also, not every brand and model 160 is the same width. Some people have "cured" chain slap with a tire model change even though both are 160 sized. People usually assume all tires are the same size and lateral stiffness. On my 2004 KTM 525 with a Behr 4.25" rear I ran a 160 Avon Distanzia without issue, but you could visually see it was a narrow tire. My 2010 Husqvarna SMR510 came stock with junky Dunlop 150/120 set. When those were dead at 1,100 miles (at Deals Gap no less!) I had to buy a 160/120 set because its all Wheeler had. Bridgestone BT-003 that fit the same as the Duncrap 150 did.
[/URL]Uploaded with ImageShack.com[/IMG] I was washing my bike today and saw these hairlines on the cases around oil filter (both sides)... Are these cracks?? Is this normal? I never heard these bikes sufering cracked cases? Or is this just paint or something like that? Can someone check his bike?Uploaded with ImageShack.comUploaded with ImageShack.com
