1. If you're going with a steel (feel) bike, I'd stick w a steel fork. Steel is lovely to ride, and since the weight isn't an issue for you, you'll get the whole steel experience. CF forks are nice on aluminum frames because it tames the buzzy-ness a bit - but on steel, go real. 2. If it's the same size frame (length of fork tube up) and steerer tube diameter yes - but you'll need to change out the headset too, which unless you have a headset press and all the removal and installation tools for the cups/crowns/races for the changeover - just let a shop do it (or come visit me in Brooklyn....). 3. If you like the granny gear, it's not so hard to change that, but it is easier to just buy a new cassette for the rear, one with a larger easy ring. This way you don't need to also change your front derailleur (from a double to triple), and likewise on your brifter if it's not able to do triple duty... 4. Unless you're going to change out both wheels, why not just leave the matching set on the new bike? You can most likely use the odd one on the new bike with just a changeout of the cassette, and some spacers. Unless the frames chainstays/seatstays are radically different. 5. Orange is always hot.
Thanks for your reply Any thoughts/comments on my logic in getting a steel bike with Ultegra ? Thoughts on the spec of the Motobecane ?
Great feedback, many thanks Any thoughts/comments on my thinking (is steel the way to go if weight is no so much of an issue), is Ultegra overkill, how is the spec of the Motobecane ? Thanks again...
My Surly is all steel, and rides smooth as a cadillac, if you're going to go for steel, go all the way. My rule for components is this = buy the best you can afford... The new Ultegra is supposedly incredible stuff, and the better the gruppo, the less adjusting, repairing, cleaning, tightening, and wear and tear. A clean click shift and all things like a swiss clock feels great when tuned. You'll be in awe after riding Sora..
Mornin all. 57min on the bike at 20-something degrees out. Good thing I've invested in great clothes! rant There's a bunch of whiny little bitches in the club associated with the shop. Won't go out riding under 40deg. Too cold! Waaa! HTFU ya sissy Marys! Geez! Its not like we're in fucking Alaska or anything! This is Northern VA! /rant re steel forks: the biggest difference between steel and CF forks is the road buzz that gets thru on the steel fork but not on the CF fork. Big hits feel about the same on either. Steel is gonna be more 'forgiving' to live with for longer. ie: you don't hafta worry about mistreating it as much. M
PS - That bike has a very good wheelset, don't change out the rear - keep them paired - they're bulletproof and will last forever.
M, don't you think the buzz is more so when you're on an aluminum bike (with an aluminum fork) than when you're on a steel bike? My theory is like a shock absorber; road is rough gives buzz from the ground up. As it travels up the steel fork into a steel frame it dissipates or goes through to the other end like a conductor. If it's a CF fork, it's meeting the other (different since it's a different material and resonates differently) material like steel or aluminum and they're repelling each other - like two different pitched tuning forks i.e. more buzz... Since aluminum is so buzzy any CF at the lower ground level absorbs vibes well. So this works for alum bike frames. But IMHO steel soaks up vibes better than CF, so CF forks on a steel bike is a wash. All you're creating is 2 different frequencies that meet at the headset - and most CF forks have a steel or aluminum steerer tube anyway (not high end). Or maybe I'm just crazy....
I was on a steel cross bike with a steel fork. Buzzy... Same bike path the next day on the CF fork? No buzz. M
Which is why I don't do group rides. There are always the crybabies who find something to bitch about. They can't just enjoy a ride.
I don't know if your theory is correct, as I believe carbon to have natural damping qualities. But, your thinking seems to be similar to my experience. Again, I'm talking my new bike versus the old. Even though my Tricross has carbon seatpost, seatstays, and fork, it still has more buzz throughout than the vintage bike. And again, the Tricross is on 32mm Contis and the BSA is on 28mm Panaracers. IDK. Maybe I just need to go order a Vaya (It's orange, this year! And, only $1500 with Apex.) to figure this all out.
The Vaya is an awesome bike. All the pictures of it with the high rise stem and the saddle nose pointing up make puke in my mouth a little but i still want one.
From now on you guys can call me fullNancyboy, in this thread only. FNB did ride 115 miles of singletrack in February. My toes (even with booties) get frozen at road bike speeds when its under 40F. They refuse to thaw out until immersed in hot water.:huh The short winters here are a huge plus.
I had the same problem even with good socks and ducnut's el cheapo plastic bag toe warmers (don't laugh, they help!). My bicycle sensei had me loosen the straps on my shoes; instant improvement due to increased bloodflow to the tootsies. Might be worth a try if you haven't already.
Now you tell me. Got any pics? Day time highs haven't dropped below 60 in over two weeks. The short of it is I've recently rediscovered how much fun mtb single track can be, since we have some new trails that are close (a 10 minute drive)to the house. That, coupled with the harshest winter in years, has kept me off the road bike. I figured I'd wait until most of the salt/sand grit gets washed off the roads before jumping back into it. The winters here are very Seattle like in nature with lots of rain. We got snow twice and then nothing, in terms of precip.
Compact cranks are basically two-chainring cranks with a smaller bolt-circle diameter, which normally accomodate smaller chainrings. A typical 'standard' crank can have 53 teeth on the big'un, and 39 on the small 'un, where the compact might typically have 48 and 34, respectively. Actually, your bike comes with a 50/34, so it's almost undoubtedly a compact - I don't think you can get anything smaller than a 38 to fit on a standard crank. Smaller chainrings sacrifice top speed in exchange for more options on the low end. An additional benefit is that it lets you run a cassette with few gaps in between the gears (like an 11-23, for example), giving you a much more even distribution of your gear ratios. The problem with standard cranks is that a lot of these ratios are unusable by mere mortals. Nothing wrong with steel, nothing wrong with ultegra. The spec of the motobecane looks pretty good, actually. Unless you're looking at the blue one, in which case it's crap.
My buddy went with the Compact crank when he built up his Trek Madone. Not sure the ratios, but I think the big ring is 48 T. I've got the 39/53 standard cranks, but am going up to a 27 Cassette. Next build will most likely have the Compact. Ultegra is a very durable gruppo. No need for Dura Ace unless you want the bling factor.
Goddammit, it's looking more and more likely I am going to go orange (never thought I'd say that about a bike....)
