Portland-BC-Alberta & Back on a 2012 Triumph Tiger 800xc

heading out this saturday, august 25, 2012 on a 2500 mile journey through the north cascades and the canadian rockies. i just picked up this triumph tiger 800xc a few weeks ago from cascade moto classics, oregon's oldest triumph dealer. had a great experience with kelly and janice, the owners, and everybody there was really great. and i have to say i'm already deeply in love with the bike. beautifully smooth bike, with a ton of power. was previously on a suzuki DL1000 v-strom, which I loved, but I'm glad I made the switch. nearly purchased a bmw f800gs after a test ride, but then tested the tiger and the decision was easy. more about that in future blogs.

this canada trip is a practice run for a 10,000 trip through south america from january - june of next year, so i've got the tiger all farkled out as though I were going on the big trip. testing the gear, and testing myself.

posting the canadian route below. if anyone has any suggestions on where to go, has a couch for me to crash on, or otherwise, let me know.

thanks for stopping by... and you stay classy, world!

cheers,

porkandcorn


official porkandcorn press photo, thanks to my chiropractor/photographer, ron knight at duniway park chiropractic. stop in if you are riding through town and need a snap-crackle-pop! i wish ron could ride behind me with his fancy torture table on all my trips. sweet jacket patch from mike at tropicool accents, a complete necessity.


porkandcorn by porkandcorn, on Flickr

<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Portland,+OR&amp;daddr=Hansville,+WA+toort+Angeles,+WA+to:Victoria,+BC,+Canada+to:Comox,+BC,+Canada+toort+Hardy,+BC,+Canada+torince+Rupert,+BC,+Canada+to:Terrace,+BC,+Canada+to:Smithers,+BC,+Canada+torince+George,+BC,+Canada+to:West+Twin+Protected+Area,+Fraser-Fort+George+H,+BC,+Canada+to:Jasper,+AB,+Canada+to:Banff,+AB,+Canada+to:Radium+Hot+Springs,+BC,+Canada+to:Spokane,+WA+to:Yakima,+WA+toortland,+OR&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=46.17983,-121.159973&amp;sspn=1.456725,3.68866&amp;geocode=FfyhtgIdERyw-CkndKl9CwuVVDGRhdH25rk2HA%3BFR4u2wIdevix-Cl9XixiP-KPVDF8apzJUS4-6Q%3BFYI53gIdq5ik-ClH5-fADFKOVDHZpU9jjGG8XQ%3BFYX14gId9Jal-ClxYbDdi3OPVDHtSLsedPPoOA%3BFSn19QId9r6N-Cll1bjmIxOIVDFcHJYxVo_ICg%3BFTfwBQMdJY5m-CmL7UkaLHxkVDEIndkGssZotg%3BFR3IPAMdTXY7-ClpRX9rE9VyVDESVtlND-MHcQ%3BFbDhPwMd7qtV-CllSA_zlJl0VDFSipEZHUqKMQ%3BFZPpQwMd1o9r-CkXJ12cYgl1VDFPskzwdSNbpg%3BFYi1NgMdG_2u-CnpD1nv95iIUzFQMHsqFTUBBQ%3BFWe3LgMdc7bQ-CExWUd4L4RJeSndQbUN4EaEUzExWUd4L4RJeQ%3BFa3fJgMd6ED2-CkpPlVoCCuDUzGCKBkLvQIgHw%3BFXvrDAMdr4cc-Sn9SgyRRcpwUzFjlKzavq6vyg%3BFYZmBAMdcdwU-SkflXPSJG96UzFf6JmEu6khhA%3BFRw31wIdgTgA-Snl57swXBieVDGx2YQL1sn83Q%3BFVcXxwId1TnR-Cn_RBbQXWKXVDFLe55xDoY7Gg%3BFfyhtgIdERyw-CkndKl9CwuVVDGRhdH25rk2HA&amp;oq=port&amp;mra=ls&amp;t=m&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=50.457504,-122.695312&amp;spn=19.626343,37.353516&amp;z=4&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Portland,+OR&amp;daddr=Hansville,+WA+toort+Angeles,+WA+to:Victoria,+BC,+Canada+to:Comox,+BC,+Canada+toort+Hardy,+BC,+Canada+torince+Rupert,+BC,+Canada+to:Terrace,+BC,+Canada+to:Smithers,+BC,+Canada+torince+George,+BC,+Canada+to:West+Twin+Protected+Area,+Fraser-Fort+George+H,+BC,+Canada+to:Jasper,+AB,+Canada+to:Banff,+AB,+Canada+to:Radium+Hot+Springs,+BC,+Canada+to:Spokane,+WA+to:Yakima,+WA+toortland,+OR&amp;hl=en&amp;sll=46.17983,-121.159973&amp;sspn=1.456725,3.68866&amp;geocode=FfyhtgIdERyw-CkndKl9CwuVVDGRhdH25rk2HA%3BFR4u2wIdevix-Cl9XixiP-KPVDF8apzJUS4-6Q%3BFYI53gIdq5ik-ClH5-fADFKOVDHZpU9jjGG8XQ%3BFYX14gId9Jal-ClxYbDdi3OPVDHtSLsedPPoOA%3BFSn19QId9r6N-Cll1bjmIxOIVDFcHJYxVo_ICg%3BFTfwBQMdJY5m-CmL7UkaLHxkVDEIndkGssZotg%3BFR3IPAMdTXY7-ClpRX9rE9VyVDESVtlND-MHcQ%3BFbDhPwMd7qtV-CllSA_zlJl0VDFSipEZHUqKMQ%3BFZPpQwMd1o9r-CkXJ12cYgl1VDFPskzwdSNbpg%3BFYi1NgMdG_2u-CnpD1nv95iIUzFQMHsqFTUBBQ%3BFWe3LgMdc7bQ-CExWUd4L4RJeSndQbUN4EaEUzExWUd4L4RJeQ%3BFa3fJgMd6ED2-CkpPlVoCCuDUzGCKBkLvQIgHw%3BFXvrDAMdr4cc-Sn9SgyRRcpwUzFjlKzavq6vyg%3BFYZmBAMdcdwU-SkflXPSJG96UzFf6JmEu6khhA%3BFRw31wIdgTgA-Snl57swXBieVDGx2YQL1sn83Q%3BFVcXxwId1TnR-Cn_RBbQXWKXVDFLe55xDoY7Gg%3BFfyhtgIdERyw-CkndKl9CwuVVDGRhdH25rk2HA&amp;oq=port&amp;mra=ls&amp;t=m&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=50.457504,-122.695312&amp;spn=19.626343,37.353516&amp;z=4&amp;source=embed" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Have a great and safe trip - the Cascade route is such a great ride. Lots of steep inclines and spectacular views...

M.

Enjoy the trip and the awesome motorcycle that you're doing the trip on

this might seem like too much stuff for just riding canada - as it definitely is. a big part of this canada trip is to test out my gear setup for my upcoming, 6-month south america trip. consequently, i'll be talking about gear a lot - i've spent the last 6 months scrutinizing just about everything on the market for adventure motorcycle touring, and feel like i'm a bit of an expert at this point and can now pass on some knowledge. and i've also discovered some real gems in the constant quest for better, lighter, and more efficient goodies.

don't be surprised by all the manufacturer and model references and weblinks - i found this sort of thing very helpful when i started this process, knowing nothing. so i felt like giving back to the adv community, and helping out the next new guy or girl.

eventually, i'll have each of these items on this list as clickable weblinks to the manufacturer or a point of purchase.


Note: (*) - indicates an efficient, innovative or otherwise amazing product that i'm glad i found

Motorcycle Gear & Modifications:
2012 Triumph Tiger 800xc, Black - from Cascade Moto Classics, Beaverton, Oregon USA
Triumph heated grips kit
Triumph fog light kit
Triumph radiator guard
Triumph skid plate/sump guard
Triumph lowered foot peg inserts
Triumph larger adjustable touring shield
Triumph center stand
Triumph engine guards
Triumph headlight protector
Arrow aftermarket exhaust for Tiger 800xc
Rear spring dust cover
ROX 1 7/8" pivoting handlebar risers
Barkbuster Storm handguards
Crampbuster, wide
Kriega front fork seal protectors *
Rick's mirror wideners
Touratech front fender risers *
Touratech kickstand foot widener
AirHawk R inflatable seatpad *
LED voltage monitor
Rear tire mud guard

Luggage & Storage:
Touratech Zega Pro 38L side and top cases, anodized black, w/ matched lock sets
Touratech Zega Pro lid nets (3)
Touratech Zega carry handle/luggage straps (3)
Givi T483 tank bag w/ rain cover
ROK straps, 54" x 1", black (4) *
REI Mesh gear bags, assorted sizes
Oxford 15" bungee net
Ortlieb 60L waterproof duffle, yellow *
3 gallon ziplocks, for duffle organization (10) *
1 gallon ziplock freezer bags, misc storage (10)
1 quart ziplock freezer bags, misc storage (10)
Rotopax 1.75 gallon fuel cell *

Security:
Aerostitch 1735 Ultralight bike cover large, black *
72" lightweight security cables (2)
Padlocks (3) w/ matched key
72" heavy security cable
Heavy-duty padlock
Pacsafe Stuffsafe 80L secure dry bag (w/ metal netting) *
Kryptonite disc lock, w/ reminder cable
Motion-sensor 2-way keychain alarm

Motorcycle Spares:
Brake and clutch levers
Clutch pedal
Oil filter
Headlight bulb
Turn signal bulb
Turn signal plastic lens cover
Fuses, assorted
Rear axle nut
Brake caliper bolts (2)
Rear brake pads (2)
Front brake pad (pair)
MIsc bolts, nuts, washers, assorted

Motorcycle & Tool Consumables:
Clear silicone sealant
Belray chain lube
WD40, 2 oz.
Startron enzyme evaporative fuel treatment *
Tape: electrical, duct, metal, self-adhering silicone
Mr. Funnel AF1CB small fuel filter funnel *
Stainless steel wire
Gorilla glue
Quickmetal putty
JBWeld
Zipties, assorted
Nitrile disposable gloves (20)
Shop rags (3)

Motorcycle Tools:
Harbor Freight padded vinyl tool roll bag
Bolt torque summary (printed w/ tools, also on iPhone)
Triumph Motorcycle repair manual (converted to PDF format on laptop)
Spoke tool
Channel locks
Vice grips
Harbor Freight L-shaped ball-end metric hex wrench set w/ case
Harbor Freight combined open end/rachet wrenches, assorted
3/8" x 9" rachet handle
3/8" x 4" socket extension wobble end
3/8" x 8" socket extension wobble end
3/8" sockets, assorted (mounted on long bolt w/ washer & nut caps)
3/8" to 1/2" adapter
1/2" by 28mm rear axle socket
Harbor Freight mini hacksaw + spare blades *
Picque multi-screwdriver *
Motion Pro front axle hex tool (for 3/8" socket wrench)
Grunge chain brush
Harbor Freight aluminum motorcycle lift and rolling work seat (obviously left at home)

Tire & Tire Equipment:
Heidenau K60 Scout dual-sport tires
Compact compressor - Slime
Tire patch kit - Slime
Tire pressure guage
Tire spoons (3) - Motion Pro
Slime sealant
Front inner tubes
Rear inner tubes
Talctube - BestRest Products
Rim protectors - BestRest Products

Navigation/GPS:
Garmin Zumo 665 (hardwired) + USB cable + case (w/ Basecamp Software for Mac)
Mototreks.com Adventure POI waypoints (free download - thanks Jeff Smith!)
16 GB SD cards (2) for Zumo backup + South America maps (link to South America maps at Mototreks.com)
RAM mount for Garmin Zumo (+ handlebar mount)
Bad Elf GPS antennae for iPhone (backup) *
Spot Connect GPS tracker/Medivac transponder + USB cable (w/ iPhone App)

Communication:
Scala G4 2-way headsets (2) + AC, DC chargers

Photography (iPhone):
iPhone 5 + DC charger + USB cable
Incase iPhone slim case
RAM mount clip case for iPhone 5 (+ handlebar mount)
RAM mount universal mount for smartphones (for camera tripod)
Olloclip multi-lens clip-on (fisheye, wide-angle, macro) for iPhone *
Belkin Live Action camera remote for iPhone (w/ iPhone App) *
Tamrac Zipshot ultralight tripod (for iPhone) *

Computer & Misc. Electronics:
Macbook Air 11" 512GB laptop
Macbook Air DC charger + extension cable
Macbook Air AC charger
InCase Macbook Air 11" neoprene sleeve
Lacie 8GB Key flash drive (looks like a key) *
Vibe noise-cancelling earbud headphones + case
Foreign electrical adapters
Bike Parts Euro to Cigarette socket adapter, 8"
Bike Parts Cigarette socket M to 2F splitter w/ 2 USB ports, 20" cable
Lithium ion batteries in all devices + spares

Riding Gear:
Shoei Multitec flip-up helmet, yellow + chin wind guard + cloth sack
Shoei Multitec spare visor, mirrored yellow + carry case
Triumph ADV Boots
Olympia X-moto Jacket *
Olympia X-Moto Pants *
Frogg Toggs Duralight rain suit, grey *
Warm & Safe Gen4 heated jacket, w/ stuff-sack
Warm & Safe heated gloves
Warm & Safe heated socks
Warm & Safe wireless controller + cabling *
Icon lightweight mesh gloves
Fleece neck tube
Silk neck tube
EVS RC2 race collar
Oakley sunglasses + case + cleaning cloth
MIni red, white strobe lights for helmet or extra visibility *
Lenser LED Headlamp (red/white)

Utility:
Leatherman Wave + belt case *
Lenser LED Micro-light (in Leatherman case R side pocket) *
Fisher Space Pen (in Leatherman case L side pocket) *
Waterproof maps: Argentina, Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Columbia
Waterproof watch
REI Compass & temperature gauge keychain *
Small sewing kit w/ iron-on heavy-duty patches
Butane torch lighter + extra butane fuel
Waterproof, strike-anywhere matches
Dust mask
Shit shovel *
TP & Wipes
REI Lightweight tree saw *
Sea to Summit Mosquito head gear
100ft. parachute cord
Swimming goggles
Lightweight poncho *
9'x12' lightweight tarp w/ reinforced grommets
3 mil yard waste trash bags (2)

Miscellaneous:
Gifts (stickers, photos, postcards)
Business cards
Custom biography/contact info postcards (en español)
Website stickers on bike cases (porkandcorn.com)
Tropicool Accents custom jacket patches (name, state, country, etc) *
Spare key set (hidden on bike)
Pocket Spanish, Portuguese dictionaries
Laminated large continental wall maps (obviously left at home)

"Office":
Lightweight shoulder bag with secure close ("Office") (located in duffle)
Document organizer/filing system
Sharpies (2)
Pens (2)
Wax pencil, red (2)
Small notepad and clipboard
Post it notes
Small scissors
Triumph motorcycle owners handbook
Electronics manuals, misc.
Passport copy (1 laminated color copy)
Birth certificate copy (1 laminated color copy)
Vaccination records copy (1 laminated color copy)
Travel insurance (1 laminated color copy)
Motorcycle registration copy (1 laminated color copy)
Motorcycle insurance copy (1 laminated color copy)
Motorcycle title copies (5 perfect color 2-sided copies, notarized)
Motorcycle title original (never give out original!!)
Travel tickets
Visa documents
Spare passport photos
$1.00 bills for helpers ($100-$200)
$5.00 bills ($100)

Wallet & Cash:
Passport-sized wallet (located in hidden pocket)
Passport
Cash (including small bills)
Credit cards
USA Drivers license
International driving permit

Fake Wallet & Cash:
Old wallet (easily accessible)
Expired drivers license
Expired credit cards
Misc cash

Motorcycle Stash-Box:
Waterproof bag (located under seat)
(Alt.) License plate stash-box - Twisted Throttle
Passport copy (1 laminated color copy)
Birth certificate copy (1 laminated color copy)
Vaccination records copy (1 laminated color copy)
Travel insurance (1 laminated color copy)
Motorcycle registration copy (1 laminated color copy)
Motorcycle insurance copy (1 laminated color copy)
Motorcycle title copies (1 laminated color copy)
Spare credit Card

Clothing:
-----Head-----
Rayban sunglasses + case + cleaning cloth
Stocking cap
Outdoor Research ultralight collapsable sun hat *
Ball cap
-----Uppers-----
Underarmour HeatGear fitted top - long sleeve (2) *
Underarmour HeatGear fitted top - short sleeve (2) *
2 grey v-neck t-shirts
2 black v-neck t-shirts
Triumph t-shirt
Nice shirt - long sleeve
Nice shirt - short sleeve
Lightweight zip-up hoodie
Portland Trailblazers NBA jersey
-----Lowers-----
7 underwear
Underarmour HeatGear compression tights (2 pair) *
Cargo shorts
Cargo pants
Jeans
Swimsuit
Belt
-----Feet-----
2 pair Underarmour HeatGear ultralight low socks *
4 pair Underarmour HeatGear ultralight crew socks *
Flip flops
New Balance Minimus ultralight running shoes *
Timberland City walking boots

Personal Items:
Clear plastic toiletry bag
Wipes
Wet wipes (antibacterial)
Biofreeze 4 oz. spray *
Hand sanitizer
Coppertone Sport SPF Minis
Small re-fillable liquid soap bottle
Deodorant
Small colognes
Gum
Floss
Toothpaste
Toothbrush + case
Eye drops
Chapstick
Nail clipper
Sink drain plug
Prescriptions
REI small quick-dry camp towel
Tweezers
Pepto Tabs
Monkey Butt powder
Other personal items...

First Aid Kit:
Antiseptic cleaning singles
Thermometer
Bandages, band-aids, tape, gauze, ace sport bandage, superglue
Blister pads
Sleeping pills, ibuprofen, aspirin, antacid, Neosporin, cough drops
Dayquil softgels, Nyquil softgels, Immodium AD, laxative
Calamine lotion
Deet bug spray
Antifungal cream
Pepto Tabs (spares)
Other first aid items...

Camping:
Wall Creeper sleeping bag *
Ultralight sleeping pad
REI Ultralight inflatable pillow *
Ultra light tent (fits in side case)
Tent footprint
Walkstool Comfort 55XL Ultralight tripod chair *

Cooking & Eating:
REI mesh gear bag, assorted sizes
Water purifying chemicals *
MSR Pocket Rocket ultralight campstove
Isopro camp fuel canister(s)
Snopeak 2-piece Titanium Ultralight cookware set
REI insulated cup w/ lid
Spark heavy plastic sparks
Aluminum foil
Starbucks VIA instant coffee packets *
Small plastic flask
Eagle Rare or Woodford's Reserve whiskey

good ride today. working out some kinks (literally, in my neck and back), but the triumph was very smooth. stopped by triumph of tacoma to pick up some 2" pivot handlebar risers to achieve a more optimal riding position for my tallness (i'm 6' 4"). will put those on tonight in hansville and see how that feels on the way to the port angeles ferry in the morning. ferry will take me to victoria, bc, and then about a 3.5 hour ride to courtenay, bc.

<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Portland,+OR,+United+States&amp;daddr=Hansville,+WA,+United+States&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FfyhtgIdERyw-CkndKl9CwuVVDGRhdH25rk2HA%3BFR4u2wIdevix-Cl9XixiP-KPVDF8apzJUS4-6Q&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=hansville&amp;sll=37.0625,-95.677068&amp;sspn=34.671324,74.970703&amp;mra=ls&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=m&amp;ll=46.830134,-122.34375&amp;spn=5.261762,9.338379&amp;z=6&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Portland,+OR,+United+States&amp;daddr=Hansville,+WA,+United+States&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FfyhtgIdERyw-CkndKl9CwuVVDGRhdH25rk2HA%3BFR4u2wIdevix-Cl9XixiP-KPVDF8apzJUS4-6Q&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=hansville&amp;sll=37.0625,-95.677068&amp;sspn=34.671324,74.970703&amp;mra=ls&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=m&amp;ll=46.830134,-122.34375&amp;spn=5.261762,9.338379&amp;z=6" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>


prepping tiger 800xc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


mounting the wild beast by porkandcorn, on Flickr


listen to her purrr by porkandcorn, on Flickr


leaving the portland plaza by porkandcorn, on Flickr


heading around to another photo op by porkandcorn, on Flickr


home sweet home photo op by porkandcorn, on Flickr


fritz and ron, the chiropractor by porkandcorn, on Flickr

Follow Along

You can follow my route by clicking the link above

Keep those pictures coming, I need total coverage. -R

had a pile of time today to work on my blogging skills - arrive in port hardy today around 1pm today (only a 3 hour ride from courtenay, bc).

was using photobucket previously to post pics from my trip on this site, but being a mac user, i realized it's a hell of a lot easier to use flickr, as there is an automatic upload option for mac's iphoto and also directly from the iphone. also, when you may changes to titles or data on iPhoto, those changes sync up to flickr. nothing wrong with photobucket, it's just that flickr paid apple a bazillion dollars to get integrated into iPhoto/iphone.

this will save a ton of time both on this trip, and the big south america trip. me likely.

so i cleaned up the previous blogs and now i'm going to retroactively do blogs for the last two days that i didn't do because i was so irritated with all the photo organization b.s. .....

visited some good, old friends out at the compound in hansville. i met demian and fabian back when i used to live in santa cruz. they put up some moto-traveler hospitality, including tacos!! ninja the cat was freshly shorn in preparation for my arrival (i assume).

<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&amp;source=s_q&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=&amp;q=Hansville,+++WA,+United+States&amp;sll=47.765176,-122.302551&amp;sspn=0.919396,2.340088&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Hansville,+Kitsap,+Washington&amp;t=m&amp;ll=47.78548,-122.33551&amp;spn=0.645909,1.167297&amp;z=9&amp;iwloc=A&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&amp;source=embed&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=&amp;q=Hansville,+++WA,+United+States&amp;sll=47.765176,-122.302551&amp;sspn=0.919396,2.340088&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Hansville,+Kitsap,+Washington&amp;t=m&amp;ll=47.78548,-122.33551&amp;spn=0.645909,1.167297&amp;z=9&amp;iwloc=A" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

demian headbanging video: http://www.flickr.com/photos/85961782@N02/7876456062/


demian and fabian at the compound by porkandcorn, on Flickr


crusing at 90mph by porkandcorn, on Flickr


fabian, proud by porkandcorn, on Flickr

about a 90 minute ride to port angeles to catch the ferry to victoria, bc. black ball ferry was the company and the ferry's name was "the coho". had to be at the ferry at 11:45am for a 12:45pm departure. 90 min ride over to canada. customs took about 20 minutes, but worked up a good sweat. glad i splurged for the underarmour heat gear base layers. they really work. much of the struggle of motorcycling any distance is regulation of body temperature, and of course, sweat.

<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Hansville,+WA,+United+States&amp;daddr=Port+Angeles,+WA,+United+States+to:Victoria,+BC,+Canada+to:Courtenay,+BC,+Canada&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FR4u2wIdevix-Cl9XixiP-KPVDF8apzJUS4-6Q%3BFYI53gIdq5ik-ClH5-fADFKOVDHZpU9jjGG8XQ%3BFYX14gId9Jal-ClxYbDdi3OPVDHtSLsedPPoOA%3BFase9gIdD8yM-ClhQx52jhOIVDGwEnsqFTUBBQ&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=courten&amp;sll=48.116175,-122.984775&amp;sspn=0.913167,2.342834&amp;mra=ls&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=m&amp;ll=48.857487,-123.760986&amp;spn=2.529962,4.669189&amp;z=7&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Hansville,+WA,+United+States&amp;daddr=Port+Angeles,+WA,+United+States+to:Victoria,+BC,+Canada+to:Courtenay,+BC,+Canada&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FR4u2wIdevix-Cl9XixiP-KPVDF8apzJUS4-6Q%3BFYI53gIdq5ik-ClH5-fADFKOVDHZpU9jjGG8XQ%3BFYX14gId9Jal-ClxYbDdi3OPVDHtSLsedPPoOA%3BFase9gIdD8yM-ClhQx52jhOIVDGwEnsqFTUBBQ&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=courten&amp;sll=48.116175,-122.984775&amp;sspn=0.913167,2.342834&amp;mra=ls&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=m&amp;ll=48.857487,-123.760986&amp;spn=2.529962,4.669189&amp;z=7" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>


dudes from victoria island, heading home by porkandcorn, on Flickr


bikes waiting for the ferry at port angeles by porkandcorn, on Flickr


cyclist last on the ferry, what??!! by porkandcorn, on Flickr


porkandcorn leaving for canada from port angeles by porkandcorn, on Flickr


black ball ferry heading to victoria, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr

stayed over night in courtenay, bc. after the ferry, customs, and the 3 hour ride, i was ready for a beer or 3 and some stretching. stayed at the cona hostel. great little spot right downtown, and i got a private sweet right on the river. there was a seal playing within view, and i told him to stop having so much fun, because he wouldn't let me get a picture of him.

by the way, i took those fisheye photos with my iphone, using the olliclip iphone multi-lens, which is super small and gives you a fisheye, wide angle, and macro lens all in one. i'm also using the tamrac zipshot ultra-light tripod which is the coolest thing you've ever seen, and also the belkin live action iphone camera remote control. so i can take photos of myself in all this lovely scenery.

right when i pulled into the cona parking lot, it started raining. i got out my ultralight bike cover from aerostitch in the nick of time. fantastic bike cover made out of super light sail cloth, and packs into an integrated stuff sack into about 8" x 5". weighs next to nothing. i got the large, which completely covers my bike and all the touratech zega panniers and top box almost down to the bottom of both wheels. great accessory.

i had a beer at the only place in town hopping on a sunday night, the flying canoe pub. sunday night is karaoke night, and i obliged the locals and sung johhny cash's folsom prison blues.

someone at the bar told me they are seeing the northern lights recently, and that i'll definitely be seeing them up in prince rupert.

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the cona hostel parking lot by porkandcorn, on Flickr


the cona hostel in courtenay, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


sweet deck with a view of the river at the cona by porkandcorn, on Flickr


beautiful sunset after the drizzle quit by porkandcorn, on Flickr

luckily, the rain had passed over night and was partly cloudy, but drying out in the morning. took some shots of the bike at the hostel, and had breakfast at the atlas cafe about 3 blocks from the hostel. amazing eggs benny, and great pricing. and attempt to find a chiropractor after breakfast in courtenay yielded no results - they all wanted me to fill out a bunch of papers for the canadian government, i guess in case they killed me. i fueled up a safeway, and my american safeway card even worked and got me a sweet discount! wooo hoo.

the drive to port hardy was fun. lot's of twisties and not many cars. you get the feeling that there is a lot of beauty beyond the trees, but all the roads are socked in and the views cut off. most of the fun stuff starts after campbell river, bc, as you start to climb into the foothills. was enjoying some of those 800cc's today for sure. even turning 8K rpm, the tiger is extremely smooth. you can hardly feel the engine vibes. i'm really happy with my setup so far, everything is working out great. glad i got the airhawk r inflatable seat pad. i barely felt the 3.5 hours i did on the bike - i think i only took one break. pretty incredible. but even without the pad, the tiger's stock seat is really comfortable. i also got the triumph lower foot pegs. they drop you foot position by about 3/4", and it's enough to notice. i think they were 10.00. compared to sw motech's 15mm dropped on/off road pegs for 150.00, it was a no-brainer.

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loaded up tiger 800xc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


new barkbuster hand guards are beefy by porkandcorn, on Flickr


new triump fog lights are swell by porkandcorn, on Flickr

not much going on here. mostly fishermen and people enjoying the wilderness of the north island. staying at the north coast backpackers hostel, one of two hostels in town as far as i can tell. it gets the job done, and the owner rob was even nice enough to stash my bike in his storage building overnight (i hope he's up early - cause i have to be at the other side of the bay to catch the ferry at 5:30am). went down to sporty pub for the fresh fish and chips, and the halibut was very good. wasn't expecting it to be as good as it was.

then i went and became a blogging god for about 3 hours, as i knew i had the time to finally figure all that stuff out and get it out of the way for the rest of the trip.

met some backpackers doing the north coast hiking trail at the hostel (which is a big deal around here), so we all walked to dinner at babe's (which in all the local maps and guides is called the glen lyon inn restaurant). why it's says babe's all over it i don't understand. anyway, we went upstairs and the view of the harbor was exactly what i was looking for and the special was amazing - breaded snapper stuffed with cream cheese, spinach, and some other stuff, and the soup was some kind of bacon cheddar awesomeness.

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port mcneill, bc harbor, on way to port hardy by porkandcorn, on Flickr


port hardy, bc is hoppin' by porkandcorn, on Flickr


north coast backpackers hostel in port hardy, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


port hardy harbor by porkandcorn, on Flickr


this catches the fish you eat by porkandcorn, on Flickr


babe's pub at the glen lyon inn by porkandcorn, on Flickr


hostel-mates from vancouver, bc adopt bald guy by porkandcorn, on Flickr

Subscribed! My wife and I just did a very similar trip of Vancouver Island a couple weeks ago. Took the same ferries, stayed at the same hostel in Port Hardy... its like deja vu - only with less hair! (don't worry... I'm not far behind you in the receding hairline dept)

If you're coming through Prince George and need a place to crash before the weekend, let me know. I say before the weekend because we're headed to the Kootenays on Friday, returning on Sept 8th. Plenty of tent space in our yard, covered parking for the bikes, also a spare room if you don't want to break out the camping gear.

Great RR, keep up the good work!

thanks. i'm trying to make this RR as useful to others as possible.

i'll be somewhere around smithers camping tomorrow night, and may take you up on the yard or the floor the following night. will check in tomorrow and see how far i plan to ride on... what day is it again?... how far i plan to ride on thursday.

porkandcorn

written during the passage and posted after arrival in prince rupert (no wi-fi on the boat):

this ferry should be call the valium expedition - the passage is one of the most relaxing things i've ever done. it's a very large boat, so you don't really feel the ocean. regardless, 75% of the time, you are passing through very narrow inlets, with evergreen-covered mountains close on either side. the mountains are not ver tall or snow-covered, but they were mist-erious today due to the weather.

occasionally, a german tourist yells out (translating, my german is rough), "OMG, it's a whale!" usually, it's a dark spot and a splash in the distance, but everyone still clamors for the windows like junkies. that's part of the charm and i smile from my seat. it's so supremely relaxing, that anything beside the 100hz low rumble of the engine vibrating throughout the vessel is a diversion. but the white noise always returns, and it's very nice. there was a brown bear on the shore about an hour ago - everyone is still talking about it. the boat is sparsely populated as the season up here is near it's end.

the food was very good (bought the breakfast and dinner with my ferry ticket), and the staff is ridiculously friendly. i also threw down for the 35.00 aurora lounge VIP seating area. was nice to recline the chair and stare out the window for hours on end. the older couple next to me, from smithers, bc, say that the ferry passage stays with you for a couple of days, keeping you in a very relaxed state. i believe it.

we arrive in prince rupert tonight at 10:30pm (15 hours at sea), missing the last several hours of scenery through the narrows due to the darkness. it's been raining off and on all day, but i've enjoyed that. made a reservation a couple of days ago at the black rooster hostel in prince rupert, and i'll have a short 5km ride to get there in the dark. will have to be careful, as it will be raining, and there are elk, bear, and all kind of critters everywhere up here. happy about the addition of the triumph accessory fog lights.

need to get some batteries for my SPOT GPS tracker in the morning, and then i'm off to camp in smithers, bc, after my first day's journey (of two) to the rocky mountains. i might get wet on the way out of prince rupert in the morning - my frogg toggs duralight rain gear arrived in portland the day after i left. will be a good test for my olympia x-moto 4-season jacket and pants. they are water-resistant, but not water-proof. i'll have my warm & safe gen 4 heated jacket on underneath, which is waterproof. if i get chilled, i'll plug in and use some of the Tiger's 650 available watts.

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retroz cafe at the northcoast hostel before the ferry by porkandcorn, on Flickr


the northern expedition by porkandcorn, on Flickr


straped down and ready for prince rupert by porkandcorn, on Flickr


looking forward out of bear cove, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


the northern expedition, bc ferries by porkandcorn, on Flickr


passing through the bc mist by porkandcorn, on Flickr


a random inlet in bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


the sun came out in the passage by porkandcorn, on Flickr


chillin' with my homies in the fancy people section by porkandcorn, on Flickr


Untitled by porkandcorn, on Flickr


nerding out on the northern expedition by porkandcorn, on Flickr

You're looking very regal up there in first class. -R

as the huge door northern expedition ferry opened at prince rupert, i started talking to a couple rogue travelers from italy, whose bicycles were tied up next to my triumph. turns out, they went on sabbatical from their jobs in november of 2011, flew to ushuaia, argentina (the southern-most city on the planet) and started riding their bikes up the entire length of the americas! i thought my plans to motorcycle south america were ambitious until that moment.

raffaele bedostri, 34, and katia ganzerli, 40 (who joined raffaele on a whim) found themselves waiting next to me on a very rainy night in prince rupert, canada. they have approximately 2 weeks left in their journey. their are trying to make it to fairbanks, alaska before the winter hits, riding anywhere from 70km - 140km or more per day, as they have done for the past 11 months. their blog: www.bedotrip.it

i asked them where they were staying as we waited for the ferry door to lower, and they said they were going to look for a place to camp. i looked outside, and it was raining sideways, and about 55 degrees at the prince rupert ferry terminal. it took me a few seconds to realize that i had booked a private room at the black rooster hostel in downtown prince rupert, which had at least 2 beds. if they were camping in those conditions, i knew they were on a budget, as one must be on a trip of that enormity, and offered that they stay in my room. i think they were surprised that a big, bald american would offer this at first, but as i explained to them that i wanted to do it, and that i hoped someone else would do the same for me in their position, they agreed. i rode into town first, and they showed up about 20 minutes later, soaking wet.

katia said, "you have given us a great gift tonight". i think i teared up a bit, because i could tell it was heart-felt and that it was really a surprise and a treat for them. i said it was my pleasure, and honor, to help two people as ambitious, and courageous as these two intrepid explorers.

the black rooster hostel in prince rupert was fine. cozy common area up front, and our room, although only about 10ft. x 8ft., had not one, but two separate bunk beds. we proceeded to fill the room with all the things that people like us travel with until it smelled of sweat, waterproof vinyl, and accumulated smells of adventure touring. i washed some socks and underwear in the sink. they laid out their tent to dry in the basement. we all had well-deserved showers and hit the sack. katia says, "a bed is a beautiful thing." they had gone for weeks, months in their travels without something as simple as a bed with sheets. i told them i might snore, and if so, to wake me up and tell me i'm snoring, like my fianceé does. we were all unconscious in minutes. although about a foot too short for me, the beds were "a beautiful thing."

they are both from small villages attached modena, italy, a city famous for its balsamic vinegar (raffaele is from polinago, katia from savignano). look next time you have some balsamic vinegar - if it's good, it probably says "of modena". modena also happens to be the home of ferrari, maserati, and at one time, lamborghini...

they biked north through all of south american coast and andes (loved the atacama desert) to columbia, ferried the nearly impassable darien gap to panama city, pedaled all the way through drug-torn central america and mexico (without issue, crossing borders in buses for safety), and then continued up baja california (loved it), and into the US. they biked the entire US coast, and then wound up meeting me in prince rupert with only two weeks to go. congratulations to the both of you1

katia says in a summary i asked her to write for me: "we think that this trip is one of the most important things that we have done in our lives. we don't know what we will do when we get back, but we are happy to have met people like you who make the world better every day. we are lucky to know that other people feel things the way we do."

they bought me a cowpaccino at the cowpaccino cafe in downtown prince rupert in the morning. we talked for an hour or so, and then i saw a break in the clouds and thought it a good time to head inland on the trans-canada highway 16 toward the rockies. i would spent most of that day getting rained on&#8230; and not minding it so much.

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raffaele bedostri, 34, adventurer by porkandcorn, on Flickr


katia ganzerli, 40, iconoclast by porkandcorn, on Flickr


the intrepid italianos have 2 more weeks by porkandcorn, on Flickr


a roadworthy trancontinental bicycle by porkandcorn, on Flickr


precious internet access at 2am by porkandcorn, on Flickr


adventure motorcycling accoutrements by porkandcorn, on Flickr


adventure bicycling accoutrements by porkandcorn, on Flickr


fellow travelers leaving the black rooster hostel by porkandcorn, on Flickr


kindred souls at the cowpaccino cafe in prince rupert, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr

for those of your that are into this sort of thing, i put about 3 hours into organizing my list while making the ferry passage to prince rupert.... alas, there was nothing else to do.

it is post #4 in the series.

today was a good day for testing out my olympia motosports 4-season jacket and pants, my warm & safe heated riding gear (generation 4 waterproof heated jacket, ultimate sport heated gloves, and wireless controller). i also own the heated socks, and plan to purchase the generation 4 waterproof pants. i also put my alpinestars harlem waterproof 3/4 length boots to the test today, and my feet were bone dry upon arrival in smithers, bc.

beautiful stretch of the trans-canadian highway. reminds me a lot of the columbia river gorge east of portland, oregon (home), but with that incredible blue-green water color, a closer ride to the water at times, and the prospect of bears chasing you down the road. i got dumped on for about 20 minutes just out of prince rupert, then some fog, then it cleared for about 20 minutes, then another downpour as i pulled into terrace, bc. then on the way out of terrace, it rained on me again, and then finally about 30 minutes east of terrace, i was seeing patches of blue sky and there was only mist coming off the road from other cars.

i feel like i missed most of the good parts, at the tops of the mountains were mostly covered in clouds. a good excuse to come back at some point, but i know that may not ever happen as there's a big world to explore out there. the low hanging clouds were cool though - put on some led zeppelin cause i couldn't get misty mountain hop out of my head. (which reminds me, i seriously need to get some really good noise cancelling earbuds that will stay put in my damn ear-hole for more than 5 seconds!) post-facto edit: GISdood says try these etymotics.

rolled into smithers and the vibe switched to more of a mountain-town/ski-resort town feel, as there's a big ol' nasty mountain right outside of town that looks really cool. (snapped the photos of the hay field in front of it.)

about a 6 hour journey (longest day so far) to prince george in the morning, and the kind moto-hospitality of GISdood, a fellow inmate from canada, ehh.

why i'm up obsessing over this ride report at 1am, i don't understand.

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the rain finally stopped for a second outsite terrace, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


taking a wizz? no, that would be uncouth by porkandcorn, on Flickr


skeena river, bc - blue green milky goodness by porkandcorn, on Flickr


bike of dreams, west of smithers, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr


field of dreams, west of smithers, bc by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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