BMW R1150RT / 1200RT / R1250RT Mega Thread

I put a new set of Z8 tires on my 1200RT before the trip to the MOA rally in Oregon. After about 5700 miles they look like they still have over 50% tread. I expect to get 10-11,000 from them.

I run 36-38 front and 42 rear,

Can't believe I have been around here for a couple of years and just found this thread. I just finished reading all 93 pages of RT devotees. I have an '04 1150RT that I picked up 2.5 years ago. It had 6K on the odo when I bought it. I absolutely love it. I have put some money into toys as well as maintenance. Considering what I paid for the bike I'm not complaining. I have been learning from guys on here as well as a couple of the other sites mentioned. Just picked up some of JVB Prod discs and look to learn a lot more about my bike. I'm coming up on the next big maintenance at 24K and hope to feel comfortable by then. In the interim, thanks for all the info you guys have shared. I pick up something new all the time. I do have one question for you guys, I've been running Metzlers since I picked the bike up and have been happy. It looks like the majority on here have been using PR3's. Anyone have suggestion as to either or why? I mostly commute. Have about 12K on the current set of tires. I probably have 1-2K more before replacing them. Just looking for additional feedback. Thanks for everything!

Just found this thread also and am in same boat (bike) as you.
Bought 02 RT 3.5 years ago and it had ME888s on it. Made the mistake of buying same on frt. when it wore out. Don't get me wrong, its a good tire but when the back needed replacing I caught a deal on the PR2s. Man what a character change. The bike felt sooo much more nimble in the turns, and again when I changed the frt to the PR2 it improved again.
For a change this time I am trying a Shinko on the rear, at a savings of over a third the $ of the PR2 I had to see if the PR2 is THAT much better... only 300 on the Shinko so I don't know yet.

Cool. Thanks for the info. I had not looked at the Shinko at all. I'll check them out. I'm looking for best mileage most likely as I do not get to the twisties often enough. For the times I do I'm not really aggressive to make it the reason to purchase a shorter life tire.

Can someone tell me how often the transmission input and output splines need to be inspected and or lubed? And how long does this take? For a 2010 to 2013 model.

Thanks

Never, it is not on the service schedule.

IF you feel like doing it, schedule a whole weekend the first time. I can do it (clutch change) in about a day.

Jim

http://bmwdean.com/r68-article.htm

A great article on the 1952 R68. 600cc's of sport bike fun over a half century ago. No GPS, no ESA II, no plastics, or hard bags. Just a 100MPH fun bike.
Would love to have one of these...

Enjoy the read, I did... tomp dd50

I posted a thread about Highway pegs on an RT a few days back. I read this whole thread and didn't see much on the hwy pegs for a '13 RT. Any of you guys have opinions on the ilium vs. the wunderlich bars and pegs? Thanks much.

I installed a set of the Ilium pegs a while back on my '12 and they are fantastic. Probably the single most useful farkle I've installed.

Looks like a couple of bolts hold them in place. Is that all there is to it? Or are you drilling and tapping some holes throught the metall down there?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7NGVkNFg5-0


Video on installation of Iliumworks pegs...tp

Okay that's not even the right model BMW. And that's way to complicated for someone to do on their own without ASE certifications and a torque wrench calibrated to the nearest 10,000th.


Just messing with ya. Great video, thank you! I just ordered the bars. Will post pictures once they arrive.

Just happen to have one of the needed torque wrenches that I rent out for an exorbitant fee, excluding UPS red label, you know....

If the pegs didn't cost as much as a bike payment, I would own a set too...Now if you would just rent my torque wrench, I could afford a set, too...

When you get them installed, post a ride review, too. tomp dd50

Thanks for the input.

I am putting them to the test on a 600 mile run tomorrow.

I've had the P3's on for 1500 miles now and I have to say that I really like them. It really feels like a whole new bike with these tires!

Well, I went and bought most of the bits to do the majority of the 600-800 mile ride in service. Drain the oil in the motor and rear end, put new crush washers in, pump the tires. And let 'em flash the computer for under a hundred. It's nice that the rear end drain is now on the bottom of the final drive on a '13 RT. Think I'll check the splines anyway and lube it with moly while I'm there. I wasn't gunna get a bash plate for the bottom of the motor but now that I've eyeballed the bolt holes. I'll likely hafta order one. Anyone know of a thread on this forum that is already covering this work? Should I add or post photos to help anyone else? Lemme know your thoughts. I ordered the ilium pegs from Bob's, and a corbin frt seat, after that I should be good til the 6k service. Some of the videos on youtube are quite good at letting you know it's just a machine.

Thanks in advance!

Hi, if you decide to re-sell your bike, sight unseen, please drop the price really low and let me know.

After all, it is a potentially very troubled machine and I could help you out by taking it off your worried hands.

I may need it: I seem to be putting too many fun miles on my own R1150RT - the odometer just keeps on counting up thousands upon thousands of miles.

Yesterday I began my attempt at swapping out the final drive fluid and oil change. Here's what I found. You need to remove the rear wheel and silencer first. Very simple to do. Here's a photo of the bike on the center stand. Just two quick T40 bolts to remove or loosen and the muffler is off.



Oh, here's the bike in full sans topcase and sidebags



The rear wheel won't come off without the muffler off, and I initially thought that just the rear brake caliper was holding it in from sliding out. Turned out the muffler need to go to. So here's the wheel and muffler laying here waitin to be clean before going back on.



There is a simple little black rubber plug on the top of the rear drive to easily and slowly pull out to fill the rear pumpkin once you drain the gear oil. It was at an angle pointing towards the front of the bike. I used a large turkey baster to fill. This worked very easily in that I could squeeze oil in and watch the air refill the turkey hootie until it was full. It took approx .8 liters of the juice.



here's the little drain port on the bottom of the drive at 6 o'clock. It had a elongated head and an o-ring in the head to seal it.



I pulled the oil filter and plug (which uses a crush washer instead of an o-ring. All seemed very simple. Now I have to get the computer flashed at the dealer to complete the ride in. Hope this helps someone save a buck or two.

The roadsmart tires were fantastic. I ended up riding 640 miles on a favorite loop - St Joe river to Lolo pass. Used all but the last 1/4 inch edge of the rear tire. Handled incredibly well and felt a lot better than the old tires.