And.... Roller rockers???? Now, we just need a super duty oil pump, a larger feed line to the head and some high RPM testing to monitor oil flow and pressure.... Getting the oiling and rocker rollers, in my opinion will finish this out into a really long, long life motor. Still gonna do my best to blow the shit out of them!!!!!
hey fritzco... The manual clearly states to USE a 9range plug for prolonged high speed use, to counter these exact issues.... if your commuting everyday at "highspeed" its our obligation to at least change to this plug. I have been told too that if you only ride slow tough singletrack a 7 range plug is good to prevent too much fouling... ???????? anybody else? cheers
While coming to a stop and downshifting, I will sometimes miss Neutral and downshift all the way to 1st gear. When I come to a complete stop and try to shift to Neutral from 1st, the bike doesn't want to cooperate. Is this a sign of anything? What should I be saving money for? Thanks for any input. Jesse
Thanks for the reply, I figured I can't have been the only one with this happening. I did adust it before and after. Maybe I missed it.
Adjust the free play in your clutch cable. If not, new clutch pak, springs , plates & disks. Easy fix.
when the last time you changed the oil or check the condition of it? the first thing I notice after changing oil is how buttery smooth and precise each gearshift is... also whenever I get false neutrals or have notchy gear shifts I plan on doing an oil change... clutch adjust helps too... good luck
Thanks, I appreciate the support. I'll put it back together and set the valves again and go for it. I have a eye surgery week from tomorrow and a hell of a lot of work to finish up before they butcher my face. So I'm clear, I rotate slowly until the click, then immediately set the valve to .004. Then run to the 46 coupe to complete the dash wiring so I can fire it up for the first time.
Like I said earlier I am a chain Uber n00b. What is the difference between the 500, 520, 525 etc? Or I guess a better question is what chain do I need and what kind master link? Obviously that will dictate what kind of masterlink tool that I need.
Also... If the clutch plates have worn into the basket, file the indentations out... My clutch never felt right, it never fully disengaged, it was always grabbing a bit, even though the previous owner put new plates in it... When I pulled it apart I found the steel and fiber plates were as good as new but there was decent indentations in the basket: (they were fairly deep even though they dont look it in the photo) (I assume the indentations hindered the plates separating as they should) I de-greased it and sealed up the back with duct tape so I wouldn't have to clean all the specs of aluminum out of the springs later: Filed the indentations out: The clutch feels great now :)
I hear you loud and clear ... I'm gonna put the air box back on, in prep for my "back to OEM build" (out side the engine anyway...) cause in addition to the intake leaking my air filter may not have been the best. I don't see any holes in it and I took care of it, but it doesn't take much and I want the engine better protected... I'm pulling the cooler too... -Barron
this is very good info... if you wheelie a lot or hammer the engine on the street this is probably what you have going on too... i did this on my xr...shifting is butter, sill has the oem clutch pack...24 years old cheers
You guys are great. I have no idea WTH you are talking about, but it sure is fun to read these threads. Duct tape on clutch plates, &c. This is more interesting than TV!
Just an update... THERE SHE IS! Still deciding on a name for her... I decided to go for a new model just because I can now know exactly what happens to it and that its MINE! Picked her up on Thurday from the dealer! and WOW!! Blown away by how awesome this bike is! Question: How long should I ride the engine in for? I dont really want to thrash a new engine... but I dont know how slow to take it and for how long... And thanks for all the advice guys!
The MSF instructor would say it's a sign you should leave it in first gear while at a stop in case the knucklehead coming up behind you is too busy talking on the phone to realize that traffic stopped... Pop the clutch and you're on the sidewalk, allowing said driver to smash into the other cage in front of you, minus motorcycle sandwich.
Uh-oh - the never ending break-in question. I suggest you learn as much as you can about it, and make your own informed decision. My research led me to the following. I agree with the back pressure is required school of thought, which leads to not babying the engine too much during break-in. Long stretches of constant RPM are generally agreed to be bad. I personally try not to redline any engine at any time while I own it, though I certainly do enjoy hitting the higher RPM's at times . Likewise, lugging the engine is not a great idea. I'm sure our resident experts will chime in with the full hows and whys. Basically - get out and enjoy the ride! Oh yeah, welcome!
