Lobsters to Llamas, Maritimes to Argentina

And Piura and is just a small city. I think I have some film I shot in Oxaca, MX I'll look for it and try and post it.


Kedgi

You do kind of get used to the way they drive. John Downs described it well in his report, he called it a fluid style of driving. They are like a fluid, the sneak into every hole. The little motos in a big city like Cali are a pain in the butt. They are always squeezing by you. Not always good on a heavy adventure bike that can be hard to start off in a perfectly straight line. The little bikes never see adventure bikes so they don't know that. Just when you are wobbling away to a start, three or four of them will whip by you on either side. You just have to be very careful. You have to keep an eye on your mirrors all the time.

Kedgi

Driving in North America is much more predictable than driving down here. Big cities like Oxaca, Cali, Cartagena, Medellin can be real crazy. Cali really sticks out in my mind. I hear Lima is a nightmare and I have that to look forward to.

I am in Huanchaco Peru this evening. A very nice beach town. I have a nice room, across the street from the beach. I stopped today in Chan Chan and visited the ruins there.

I took a few pictures and I'll post them later. The ride here was mostly across desert. Some incredibly stark landscape. I met some very nice people along the way, when i stopped to get gas and to take a break in the shade.

I can't say enough about Peru's people. Incredibly friendly. When I drove the first 150k down from the border people were waving to me and blowing their horns and all excited to see an adventure bike in Peru. Maybe they thought I was part of the Dakar Rally.

Kedgi

They sure do. The horn blowing is constant. Rarely in anger. It is just a toot to say "I'm here" I find myself doing it now to make people know for sure that I am passing or beside them

Bus

I had an opposite direction bus force me onto the shoulder today. It has happened several times this trip. Today's incident was just blatent. He saw me coming and passed the bus he was following anyway. I had no where to go but get off the road. Bigger is always right down here. he had miles of empty desert and light traffic to pass in but he had to pass when I was in his way in spite of that.:eek1

I am very happy to report that I will be taking tomorrow off to watch the Seahawks game. I looked all around town this afternoon for a place that was showing Football Americano. No such luck. I have a TV in my room so I checked that and it is on the Spanish Language ESPN.

I had a frustrating morning this morning. My computer was acting up again or so I thought. I worried about finding a fix for that all day and then surprise surprise it worked fine when I checked into the hostal here. It must have been a problem with the internet at the hotel in Pimentel. It had all the same symptoms as before. "DNS SERVER NOT RESPONDING" wapita!

I tried and tried to connect to the internet with no luck. I tried resetting the DNS server as I had a few days ago, no luck. Could not connect. Rats!

Then to top it all off I could not find my sun glasses. I don't know where they went but they're gone. They were cheap, safety glasses but I loved them, they really shed the wind and you don't have to drive with your shield down in the heat. I found a new pair in Chan Chan, not as good but they will do.

I have found out that when a day starts like that it usually means something good is about to happen. It balances out. So today I met some really nice people, found a good hostal with secure parking easily, and I have football in my room. It's all good.

I'm off to watch the sun set!

More tomorrow

Kedgi

I just happened to find a place tonight that was showing the Broncos vs Ravens Game. Exciting football! Overtime!

I stepped out to the curb during a commercial, to get away from the pounding music in the bar, and kept a sharp eye on my table, that was right in front of the TV. I saw two young guys who had been sitting behind me and playing a Peruvian version of Jenga, and singing to the music, eyeing me the whole time I was on the street.

When I went back in, the game was gone, there was a soccer game on. I asked the waitress if she could put the football Americano back on. She did and I gave her a good tip. The two amigos who had got the channel changed said to her, "I thought he left" They had no more interest in the soccer than anything. They were just being jerks. I got to see the end of a close game. Score one for the old Gringo!

I hope the waitress remembers me tomorrow at 1 eastern when the Seahawks play. I'll take the bar's 32" over my room's 13" TV anytime.

During the overtime I was joined by Henry from Minnesota who is down here teaching English for the Winter, he used to live in Seattle and is a Seahwaks fan too. He plans to join me tomorrow to watch the game. Cool!

Go Seahawks

Kedgi

I am sitting here on the deck at my Hostal, uploading pictures to show you and while I wait I'm watching thousands of Pelicans fly down the crests of the waves like strings of commuters going to work. They come in groups of about 100 birds at an altitude of about 6 inches, skimming the crests of the waves. Amazing sight.

Here are some pictures of Northern Peru

The view from my room in Pementel





Traditional boat







Our $20 rooms were in the large hotel on the right





January in Peru



















I tried this dark Peruvian beer. Too sweet for my taste, but worth a try





Luis, who owned the little bar I went to. It was fun to watch him work his magic on passing potential customers.




I had breakfast a a nearby restaurant, the next morning and this Peruvian cutie was trying to get my phone number, I think





When I left Pimentel yesterday the ride covered miles and miles of desert. I stopped for a Coke and a break in the shade and had a great time talking to these three amigoes. They were wonderful guys. Really curious about my trip, my bike, my age, my home, everything. I can't help but wonder what it is they do, way out in the desert.




I bought gas in Chiclayo and this girl was so excited I had driven my bike from Canada it was really flattering. Then she saw I had a movie camera on my helmet and said I should make a movie of her. I told her I wanted her picture and she was more than happy to pose for a shot. She had personality plus!





Somewhere along the way I saw this group of trees just loaded with birds, some kind of small crane. There were thousands of them.















The Northern Peruvian landscape





It's a long lonely road








I stopped at a second Tienda for a second coke and a break in the shade and saw this cool guy relaxing





I had about ten men ask me dozens of questions there too and they all made a point of welcoming me to Peru. It is amazing how people flock to you when you stop. I should have got them all together for a group photo but I settled for my photo with this little guy who couldn't believe I offered to let him sit on my bike.





I stopped to see the ancient ruins at Chan Chan. This is what the Spanish must have seen when they first approached the place. Seven meter high walls.








Chan Chan was pretty cool. The people that lived there for 600 years up until the 1500's were farmers. They devised a system of canals to bring water down from the mountains into the valley to grow their crops. The place was huge. It covered 18 sq miles. A portion of it has been excavated and restored. There is much more to do.

Here is a look around.


This guy was cool.....more on him later. I shot this photo as he was giving a talk, in Spanish to other tourists





Since I don't understand the demonstration I walk past and take some photos

This guy was called "The Guard"





The walls all had amazing detail like this








You can see they have covered the restored sections to protect them. I'm sure it's necessary but it makes it difficult to get a few good photos.









































So after walking the self guided tour which makes a big loop and taking all these photos I find myself back, face to face with the Chieftain guy. Now there is just me and him. He says, in English and I quote, "Hey Dude, where the f*** you riding from?" You could have knocked me over with a feather. We had a great chat about bikes, rides, car trips, travel, for about ten minutes. He was awesome and wished me well, and good luck on my trip.

I never imagined I would be discussing my ride with a Peruvian Chieftain who's society has been gone for over 700 years.

I had a good night in Huanchaco. It was amazing to be able to watch NFL in Peru. I shot these photos to show you around this very nice little town





My Hostal




A parking mishap? Actually i couldn't imagine what had happened and then i realized these cars were in front of the police station and had likely been towed here to be impounded.





Surf's Up








Surfer in the distance








Northern end of the beach







This guy was being fed a treat of some little fish





Sunset


























Kedgi

Continuing to enjoy your ride report. Most enjoyable.

Those white "cranes" are a part of the heron /egret family. Seen them as common throughout Africa and the America's. Come in several sizes.

Those reed boats are reminders of the Norwegian ethnographer, Thor Heyerdahl - who in 1947 sailed indigenous styled craft Kon-Tiki from Peru to prove migrations were possible from SA East and 69/70, in Ra and Ra 11 to prove migrations from Africa to India.

Hello Kedgi,

I am still following your report. Look forward to the updates and really appreciate the effort it takes on your part to do them while enroute. Lots of snow here in Moncton but we do have the January thaw starting for a couple days with forecast of +8 C for tomorrow. I am organizing our annual breakfast get-together for the New Brunswick Dualsport Club during the Motorcycle Show weekend, and will mention your ride to them in case some are not aware of it. As you know, NBDSC is a virtual club, but if you are interested in doing a slide show or talk regarding your trip when you get back then I will set it up.

You didn't happen to try and paddle any of those reef boats did you? They looked pretty cool.

I read Kon-Tiki and for anyone that hasn't I highly recommend it. It is the story of an amazing adventure. I was thinking of him as I looked out across the Pacific after seeing those reed boats. I didn't try to paddle one. The ones they use for tourists (don't tell anyone) are full of styrofoam. Kind of takes the fun out of it.

Kedgi

I'm afraid I'm not much of a public speaking kind of guy. It's my only weakness, that, and of course my good looks and overwhelming modesty but I don't count those.

Those reed boats are available for tourists to try, but they fill them with styrofoam now. As a guy who goes to great lengths to build wooden kayaks I was really surprised to see styrofoam in those boats.

I would like to take a surfing lesson but I'm not sure I will. When I take a day off of adventure riding, just doing nothing is more my style.

I find it easier to update my report when I am alone. When you're traveling with other guys there is always something to talk about. I'm really on my own again now. Boris, Franki and Tony have really lit the jets and are already in Cusco or will get there today and my friend Steve is still in Ecudaor, touring two up with his wife, Julie. My German backpacker friends, Jana, Niko and Lawrence have just arrived in Cuenca and are staying there for a few days.

I'm not sure where Dylan, Bryce and Alison are, they may be closer to me than I think. I do have a group email link where I could find them, or they could find me if I need be.

I don't mind being alone. It is kind of hard to fill in a day at the beach by yourself when you don't speak the language but it's alright. I like taking pictures and I feel like a kid at Christmas waiting for this afternoon's football game. In the meantime I had a great breakfast and am enjoying the warm weather.

Kedgi

It is one thing to talk about riding in South America and quite another thing to actually show video of it. You guys liked the clip from Puria so much I looked for the video I thought I had of Oaxaca which was the worst traffic I encountered to this point. I don't think I have it. probably a case of thinking the Go-Pro was on when it wasn't. It happens a lot. If you buy a GoPro get the new generation one with a remote control. I think they call it Go-Pro 3 You can then fasten the remote to your handlebars and see if the camera is actually on.

Fear not though, I am working on another clip for you. I have finally figured out how to post longer clips to YouTube. It takes a long while. The clip I do have is of a portion of my ride down into Medellin from the top of the mountains. It was early in the morning so the traffic was not too crazy but the ride was outstandiing. One of the best mornings of my trip. You feel like you are descending in an aircraft, from about 6 or 7 thousand feet to the valley floor on a road carved into the side of the mountains with a spectacular view of the city. As soon as I can get the clip ready I'll post it. Maybe later today.

Kedgi

I'm guessing those wicker boats are lighter than water even with the pilot rather than being watertight. Was that your impression?

BTW, were many Peruvians interested in US footballers or were those shows for the benefit of tourists?

That's they way they seem to work, the authentic ones relied on the buoyancy of the reed bundles to keep afloat. the little cockpit you see was used to put the fish in that they caught. The captain actually straddles the reeds like you would sit on a horse with each leg dangling in the water. The prows are bent up to deal with the surf.

In fairness to today's builders the authentic ones would become waterlogged with a lot of use and need to be dried out. The styrofoam makes for a much longer service life.

No one and I mean no one was watching Football Americano. I just happened to see the TV on as I walked by and grabbed the table right in front. I had the TV to myself until Henry discovered the game in much the same fashion I did. I don't think he had TV in his room so he was glad to be able to see the end of and exciting game.

By the way. Baltimore was down by 7 points with a minute and a half left. Flocco threw and amazing pass and then tied up the game, forcing over time. Baltimore eventually won and it was a heart breaker of a loss for Denver. The Denver fans had been celebrating they were so sure they had it won, only to have the game change so quickly. The Stadium was in shock.

Games like that are one of the reasons I like NFL so much. Anything can happen and usually does. I feel for the Denver fans. I have seen Seattle lose so many close ones in the past.

Kedgi

Hey Rory!

I was just thinking that since you're going to the motorcycle show anyway.........you will no doubt want to mention me and my ride report to the Yamaha shop who has been trying to sell me a Super Tenere. Of course when they realize Kawasaki has never called me back they will likely jump at the chance to give a long distance adventure rider, like old Kedgi here a smokin' deal on a new Super Tenere so they can say to other potential customers ......look what you can do with this bike, as I ride it in Africa or Australia maybe (with their name on it of course)...hahaha

It's fun to dream!

Kedgi

Oh, they are Styrofoam? You mentioned Kon Tiki. I have a Kon Tiki watch by Eternamatic. Supposedly it was commissioned by that Norse guy to be rugged enough to keep time on his voyage. Anyway, it's a nice watch.

I guess time marches on and although tourists would like to see waterlogged reed boats, the guys using them would be bozos not to avail themselves of modern materials. I think I"ve seen similar boats before - perhaps in Lake Titicaca pix.

Thanks for the update on that game. I have a friend who used to play for the Colt team as a pro. He predicted, just last week, that the Denvers would most likely be the overall winners. I guess that's been put paid to now.

i walked to the bar to see the Seahawks. Bar doesn't open until Happy Hour....too late...My TV is showing Australian open tennis.

Found the game on online radio. Yay, not going well so far.

falcons 20 Seahawks nothing

Kedgi