Depends on the bike as well. Some bikes come with very restrictive exhausts so swapping it out makes a significant change in airflow. Other bikes the stock exhaust is pretty good but the airbox is killing the power. That's why any mod to either requires a bit of guess n' check on the jetting. A wide open throttle (WOT) plug chop is the single best way to check your main jet and only costs you the amount of a new spark plug. Basically you warm up the bike, shut it down and put in a new plug, then start it and run it as fast as possible up to WOT in top gear. Pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch to coast to a stop. Swap to the old plug to get back to the garage. You want to look at the color at the base of the insulator on the plug (the part behind the threads) so the best way is to take a dremel to the plug and cut off the threaded portion. Black is rich, white or gray is lean. A light tan ring around the base of the insulator is ideal. Diff bike so ignore the jet sizes:
WR, your hardcore cutting the plugs. I just use an eye piece with a light source and look down at the fuel ring. either way it works. I know some and I did one time was to pull the exhaust head pipe and checked the exhaust ports of the heads. actually gave a little better reading than the plugs did.
+400 on the Keintech info/jetkit.. THem folks know their stuff! Us DR350 riders pretty much worship them. lol CIDD: So your from Picks-burgh eh? im about an hours NE of ya..oughta make it out this way sometime and do some riding dood! assuming your from PittsburgH pa cuz ya put the H at the end of burgH (only real burgh...cuz its only one with an H) lol Anyhow, yah..get some jets..the air screw is souley for your idle circuit..wont do nothing once your off the idle circuit and as the post i quoted states..sooner or later...you will burn it up sadly.
Yep got the jet kit and there in along with a new exhaust I cant believe what a difference it makes the bike now starts with out the choke and no more backfiring when I get off the throttle . Makes It sounds like a real motorcycle instead of some kid making motorcycle noises with his lips .....pbt.pbt.pbt.pbt.pbt . Its enjoyable to ride now because it doesn't struggle to get to 50mph it does it in 4th gear now no problem and 5th gear became my cruising gear its now the perfect little bike for running around town .
What type of oil is the best to run in these bikes? I know its more of a personal preference thing Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Any moto oil 10W40, unless you live in Arizona, then you could run 20W50 in the summer. Personally I run Amsoil 10W40 in all our bikes. Some people swear by Shell's Rotella, it's a diesel oil but just make sure any oil you buy DOES NOT have "Energy Conserving" in the API circle. Those are car oils with friction modifiers that will ruin your wet clutch. Don't Use this... But this would be OK I think the manual states oil to meet Jaso MA, which is a Japanese oil standard so you can just check for that on the bottle as well. It will only be on moto specific oils, not on the Rotella. Castrol GTX is another good inexpensive car oil that has done well in tests. It's also available in 10W40.
Hi guys, new guy here, I have a 2009 dr200. For those interested the dealer has a brand new never sold dr200 for 3 grand plus taxes! (Mine was more, that bastard wouldn't budge on the price for me) Anyways, I already have 267 km on it, I'm 510 and 225 pounds, the bike is a bit underpowered, I would love to get a 650 something for highway cruising. My kid spends a lot of time riding around my dads place, probably half the mies on it are from him. Great for a break in, no place to go hard on the throttle. The day I paid for her;
hello every one i just reasanly got my bike blue plated and i was out for a ride and it seized up on me and when i looked down there was droping oil. i lost my oil plug while drive. a couple days later i was runnning up and down the road droping the cluch and the piston broken free. i got a hole new plug and lock washer for it and i plan on lock wireing it on. so my question is, is there a oil out there that will help with the lubercation better (regular, synthedic, diesal oil) or is there a aditive out there that will amp up the oil lubercation thank you. colin
Does anyone run royal purple? I didn't see and 10/40 in it though. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Just wasting your money pumping expensive synthetics in your bike. The high shear factors on bikes use up a synthetic as fast as any other oil. I have used them and have actually noticed they break down FASTER than Rotella. Save some money and run Rotella T, just change your oil more often. I rarely go 1K miles between changes on my dual sports.
Don't use RP!It has friction modifiers that will fry a wet clutch in short order.The best I have found is Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil.A gallon will do a few oil changes with top offs.
call me crazy - but why not just run Suzuki oil? I just picked some up at the dealership...rather run what they recommend @ T680 - your post made me so you rode without a drain plug, let the bike run bone dry, locked up the engine, broke it free, and want to know if there's a "magical oil" that will lube it up enough to run right again?
Mainly because the manufacturers simply outsource their oil to whoever wins the bid. Nothing wrong with that but it probably isn't the best oil you can buy, nor the most inexpensive, best value, whatever. It's fine to do that but my closest dealer is an hour and a half away, easier to order Amsoil and have it shipped to my door, plus I believe it provides the best lubrication so I'm happy to use it in our bikes.
That's a load of misinformation. It's been proven in test after test that synthetics stand up better to regular dino oil. They resist breakdown from heat better, they're basically just better oil, period. My own oil analysis backs that up, but sorry I wouldn't want to cloud this issue with facts. As I stated, nothing wrong with Rotella, it does well in testing and is always ranked right up at the top.
I have been monitoring this thread for a while 'cause I think the dr200 is the next bike I want. Anyone ridden slow street miles to get an idea of best mpg it is capable of? Sent from mobile
I generally get around 70 or 75 miles to the gallon riding around surface streets in town, with lots of stopping and going and accelerations. I imagine that number would go up to 90 or so if I were to set a steady 40 miles an hour out in the country.
Buddy of mine worked for a place that did destructive testing on turbos. Part of the fun was draining all the oil out of an engine and waiting until it went boom. He said when the engine had dino oil it took only a minute or two. With synthetic, they'd sit around bored off their asses waiting for it to go - guys would take breaks, come back...nope still going strong.
