Lighting: where do I tap into for 'turn on'?

Ok, so I've got my new fog/spot lights mounted, my fuzeblock installed under my seat(rear above fender), everything's looking good. I'm nervous about tapping into the factory wiring..where is the best/easiest place to tap into for my 'turn on' power?

Good question. Are you trying to have the entire fuzeblock wired to the ignition, so the key must be on for power?

Not wanting to hijack your thread, but the reason I'm asking is that IS what I want to do.

Any wire that is hot with the switch on. Since you have everything under the seat I would think the tail light wire would work to activate your relay. I used the head light low beam but my relay was up front.

sounds good. thanks.

@ Justkip, no, I'm running power directly off of battery to fuzeblock. The fuzeblock is cool because it has a relay and the ability to fuse either switched or constant power at any of the 6 outlets on the fuzeblock.

Somewhere on here is a post by JVB, maybe about fuze blocks that says to use blue/green wire in diagnostic plug for the trigger. I used it with no problems. Easy to find, close to my fuseblock, easy to tap.

Cool! That's exatly what I want. What fuzeblock?

http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuzeblock-Fuse-Block-FZ-1_p_92.html

and a he's a fellow inmate..

use green/blue ]wire in diagnostic plug for the trigger. This is for a R1200GS.

A Positap makes it very easy to do so.

+1

thanks all. I'm color blind, and, yes I know that's not good for wiring. Blue I have no trouble making out and I can always ask the mrs. Mine is 04 R1150GS..is the blue wire here the one you're referring to?

I just soldered wire on low beam wire at headlight for trigger, easy to do and no need to splice any wires. Best thing is that aux lights dont come on until engine is running.

Just a note, if you use a Positap you won't have to cut or solder any wires.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

http://www.posi-lock.com/instructions1.html

You did not mention the bike, but from your profile I am guessing it is the 1150GS. If so, you can tap the tail light as suggested above or the parking lamp if you working up front.

I have posi-taps. They work great, but are a little hard to find locally. Napa is the only place who stocks any and they only have one size meant for 12-18ga power/accessory. I guess I'll need to order some smaller ones to keep around the shop..

You run the hot wire through a slotted bolt, then a nut secures it. The wire you want to electrify goes into the nut then is secured with another
nut. There is a picture on that website. The tapped wire only ends up with a very small hole in the insulation.

I don't know, it looks to me like a more expensive version of the Scotchlock taps, prone to loosening, corrosion and contact resistance.

I always strip a short, quarter-inch section of tapped wire, wrap the tapping wire around and solder the junction. Yes, it takes a bit more time - but now it is off-season anyway, no? Time for bike farkling.

I have had my share of IDC (insulation displacement connector) failures. OTOH, I have never had a solder splice fail on me, even if sloppily made. And you would not believe the amount of add-on wiring on my bikes - I am a hopeless gadget freak. Good connections are a must.

Robert.

Posi taps look very practical in that they are very invasive. I would stick apply electrical tape around to secured the nut( that motorbike/hockey tape...ya know what I mean)

, and do it on the parking lamp or the running lamp for the tail light.

Jim

I have used them extensively. They seal themselves with the tip of the pin penetrating the insulation, and are much less likely to damage the original wire. When removed they leave a pinhole sized hole, and do not cut any strands of wire like a schotchlock.

Jim