Went riding after I got off work, and found myself coming back to the 4Runner after the sun had gone down. I quickly realized that I needed more light than the TrailTech X2 lights were giving me. I just placed an order for one Model 60 Off-Road Flood Light, and one Model 30 Off-Road Spot light. I figure with one light on each side of the KTM 500's Fork, this should give me plenty of light for the short range and the long range. These of course will be in addition to the TrailTech X2 lights that are always on. Using the HDB Top Clamp mount, I have room for 4 push-button switches, that can control each light separately. In addition to this setup, I have a relay that is already in play that will be used to control the lights, so nothing gets burned out or shorted out. When these come in, I add my schematic to the existing 2012 KTM 500 EXC wiring schematic and post up for others to use....
Thanks for your business. You could easily ditch the X2 for our dualsport fairing. A pair of model 60s is all the light you will need. I've had a couple of customers switch from the X2 and are extremely pleased.
Recent quote from an ADVmonster Customer "Told you I'd do business again - Friend needs eyes of god."
Got my lights installed yesterday. Here's some pictures of how my install went on my WR250R. Installed the dimmer on my HDB Top Plate. Was gonna wire in a fancy button switch, but since that has an "off" detent, figured might as well just use the Rotary Dial to control everything. I attached it with Velco in case I need to move it later. Used the reflector mounts to mount the lights. Clears the shrouds just fine here. Hopefully they aren't too vulnerable at this location. Low - Just barely "On". Plan on using this setting during the day to help visability. Note can turn lights off, by just turning the dial to "Off". High - Tied into High Beams, so Clicking my High Beam Switch turns these on full 100% (Aka High Beam Bypass). Can also just turn the dial up 100%to have them on 100% regardless of dimmer switch setting. Note - The headlight is "Off" right now because the bike is not running. On WR's the light only comes on once you start the bike. Aux lights work on separate power - the High Beam Bypass does not work unless the bike is running, but the Dial still does to adjust the brightness. So far, so good. Next step, test these suckers off road during the wet winter. -= Scott
You might be able to flip the signal brackets over and/or swap sides to bring them up inside the tank ears for more protection!
Tried that, and also tried flipping the mounts on the lights etc. all hit the radiator etc. Other alternative was to mount them higher off the top triple tree, but that had its own set of challenges. It's not BAD where they are now, just not sure what to expect if when/go down. There are actually cut-outs in the tank shroud that makes a nice pocket for these when I turn. Also that reflector bracket may be a good sheer point in a crash vs. breaking the lights - it's pretty thin.
sanjoh, Will you be at the BMWNEF Winter Rally in January? Just added a R100RT to the garage and it needs some help in the lighting department.
Just ordered a pair of the 44 flood lights. Should improve the 30 year old inadequate lighting on my Nighthawk quite well.
Thanks for your business. You might actually want to ride at night Where are you planning on mounting the lights?
I was thinking of mounting them a bit under the headlight, something like so: Im noticing a lot of the street tourers are mounting these down by the front wheel. Is this advantageous to avoid blinding people? Any particular advantages/disadvantages of mounting high or low?
Higher the light is mounted on the bike the better. Just a bit under the headlight should work great. The theory on mounting lights low on the fork is that it creates a triangle of light that has a larger pattern which helps others see you. After some 60k miles behind these lights on all sorts of wheeled vehicles, I can tell you that the sooner someone see the lights, the sooner they will recongnize a vehicle, to me that means mounting them as high as possible. As a benefit you can see much further with the lights mounted high.
The lower down you mount lights, the more they show the shape of the surface by throwing shadows of the bumps/dips/obstacles. The higher up, the farther you can effectively throw the beam, but the less surface highlighting you get. For visibility by others, the more different the pattern of the lights, the more likely they are to notice you. Mount one low/left, another mid/right?
Installed some 60s with skene design hq70 dimmer and trail tech 3 position switch as outlined on his website with the alert feature button. Ground to frame 12 volt lead horn. When I turn on ignition they just flutter. And do not enter program mode. Any ideas? I hope it has nothing to do with led rear blinkers I bought off eBay that pulse faster than usual.
Nvmnd. I switched to another 12 feed and it is stable now. Programmed with trailtech switch. low=20% (for night (safe setting) mid=40% (gonna try it for night, see if I get flashed alot from on coming, if I do go back to 20%) high= 70% (for Sunny bright Days) Highbeam shoots them to 100%. Problem though is my ferring guards. I cannot lower the light to adjust them from shining into the trees. I cannot angle the lights too low or they hit the guards and I can't turn. I laid the klr down a few times and bent the guards..
