Looks like we lost the OP 4 pages ago. I wonder if he took them beads off by now and either try riding without balancing or balanced with weights.
When I balance a wheel/tire assembly with weights, I KNOW it's in balance and can prove it. When someone pours plastic beads in a tire, they HOPE it's in balance, but can't prove it. Go to a pro race sometime and see if any of the factory tire busters use beads. They don't.
Ok. Since I'm on the side of it didn't work for me. How do I get the beads out of the tube to keep from buying new ones?
Well ill jump in here for the heck of it. I run dynabeads on my Tiger. Used them in a set of kenda big blocks, 150/70-17, 110/80-19. I installed the recommended amount. I never had any vibrations of any kind even at speeds of 100mph. The set of big blocks went 5000 miles and am changing them now. Even wear patterns on both tires. All that with tubeless tires.
I used to race cars & can readily attest that "they" were not a collection of all the genius's in the world! I've run the beads for a few years & have been getting normal wear & smooth riding. I reuse them, they're easy to install & not so complicated from there to say , why not? As to removing them from a tube w/o a knife, you've got me there...
Race car tires and wheels need to be dynamically balanced because of their width, and you can't use a simple static balance stand. Might as well cut the tube open because new tires deserve new tubes anyway.
I've got two sets of tubes for my bike. The original tubes, 2004 bike, and a HD set I bought for spares. No problems in 40,000 miles... I'm still running the original tubes in my Mtn. bike. It's a 1992 model. Tubes don't disintegrate after one or two uses but if you feel they do I'll gladly send you my snail mail address and you can recycle them.
Dyna beads are stated to not work by the seller for wide/low profile tires. Many car tires these days are in that category. I remember them saying they don't disperse across the width properly for good balancing.
I was speaking towards balancing with weights, not beads. I can balance a motorcycle wheel in 10 minutes using weights and see no need to screw around with plastic pellets that would take longer and make a mess the next time I had to break it down.
I really enjoy bead threads. They are ceramic, if "Dyna Beads" the air gun pellets are the plastic. As to making a mess, that's hardly the case as these pellets are very tiny-similar in size to maybe #12 shot like's in a .22 birdshot shell-definitely smaller than #9 shot,as an e.g.. I find it easy to recycle them. If I drop a few , no big deal & if your shop is like mine a stray ceramic bead thats around 1/32" in diameter won't cause much problem. I do dislike hunting for those stray bearing balls that escape from MC steering heads! I reweigh what I catch(I dump them on a plastic scrap when changing tires) & use over. Takes little effort to lay there on a creeper & tap the clear plastic tube as they roll into the stem. My tires are smooth for the life of the tire, no matter the wear pattern.
interesting??? <table border="2" cellpadding="2" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td colspan="7" height="47" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">Motorcycles</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="99ffff" valign="middle"> <td colspan="7" height="46">Motorcycle applications are easy for all bikes, 2 wheel or 3 wheel </td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" height="20" bgcolor="#FFFF99">Front</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">80 - 120 mm tire width </td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">1 oz</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">80 - 120 mm tire width (BMW Telelever only) </td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">2 oz</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">130 mm tire width </td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">2 oz </td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" height="20" bgcolor="#FFFF99">Rear</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">130 mm - 240 mm width </td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">2 oz </td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">250 mm - 360mm tire width</td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC"> 3 oz </td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="22" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">195 - 205 car tires on the rear</td> <td class="pcenter" height="22" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">3 oz </td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" height="20" bgcolor="#FFFF99">M Series Tires Sizes</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="3" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">MH use 80 mm width</td> <td colspan="4" class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">MR use 120 mm width</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="3" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">MJ use 90 mm width</td> <td colspan="4" class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC"> MT use 130 mm width</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="3" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">MM use 100 mm width</td> <td colspan="4" class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">MU use 140 mm width</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="3" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">MN or MP use 110 mm width</td> <td colspan="4" class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC"> MV use 150 mm width</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">These codes are typical for Harleys but can be for any tire. The codes do not go beyond 150mm in width. With these tires, the first number of the tire size is not the actual width, it is just a number. The M-code is what tells you the actual width.</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" height="20" bgcolor="#FFFF99">Scooters</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">10" diameter wheels (scooters) </td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">1 oz </td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="cccccc" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">12" & Up diameter wheels (scooters) </td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" align="center" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">2 oz </td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="#FFFFff" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" height="20" bgcolor="#FFFF99">Dual Purpose / Off Road with Rim Locks</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="#FFFFff" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">Front - 80 - 120 mm tire width</td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">2 oz</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="#FFFFff" valign="top"> <td colspan="6" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">Rear - 130 -230 mm width</td> <td class="pcenter" height="20" bgcolor="#CCCCCC">3 oz</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="#FFFFff" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" class="smalltext" height="20" bgcolor="#FFFF99">Rim Locks - add one ounce over what you normaly use for that size tire to accomodate the additional weight of the rim lock. Two rim locks opposite each other don't require any more Dyna Beads other than stated above, as they have a tendency to cancel each other out.</td> </tr> <tr align="left" bgcolor="#FFFFff" valign="top"> <td colspan="7" height="57">Note: Filtered valve cores do not fit all stems. They require a seat 1-1/4" down in the stem. If you cannot use them, simply rotate the tire so the valve stem is about the 6:00 position, then give the valve stem a quick shot of air prior to checking pressure. </td></tr></tbody></table>
I hate how I'm about to sound like another snob, but frankly, when I read this, I can't help but imagine the endless possibilities that make a Harley vibrate badly, and the tire balance is not high on that list. I could tell you stories, but they're not dynabead related.
Probably because new tyres a spot on and don't need balancing..... So putting the beads in is a waste?
I spend a sh*t load of money on balancing machinery at work. I doubt ANY engineer would use some witch doctor automatic balancer on something as important as a power plant. Washing machines use a heavy weight and springs to stop the thing walking across the floor - they also stop and restart if the out of balance is too extreme.
All that, and the very simple fact that dynamic balancing is only sucessful when applied to stationary machinery. Introduce any appreciable outside force (such as might be felt by a tire hitting a bump) and that dynamic balancing system begins to oscillate instead of balance.
You know....that may just be it.Both my wheels/tires are well within the specs at which the maker recommends balancing. I think 0.75 oz in my case. You bet I rode without weights last fall. NO vibrations and I sure could tell I used to balance car wheels in a distant past and we testdrove all the vehicles just in case we could have missed on the balancing. But I removed the weights just to be contrary on another bead thread somewhere else. I'll put them back I am picky and like to balance, reminds me of the old days watching wheels spin on the Snap-On static balancer.
Without dyna Beads, I cannot feel either of my R1200GSA's vibrate while on the highway, but I cannot see out of either mirror either. With Dyna Beads, I cannot feel either bike vibrate, but I CAN see and READ the front license plates on cars in the lane beside me.