the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

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    Quite a few bikes have lowering kits available. Check http://www.koubalink.com/ for some pretty good options. Most of their links seem to drop the bike at least 1-2". Most seats can be shaved for another inch or 2 if you really feel its needed. It probably isn't.

    The only reason I got the DR was for my wife who has a 23" inseam to give you some comparison. My inseam is only 30" and I'm rolling on a KTM450 (stock height). Before that I had an XR400 and CR250 (both also stock height) and both were fine too. Prior to the DR I hadn't been on a bike that I could put both feet flat on the ground since I was 14 and was learning to ride on a 1977 YZ80. Flat footing is nice for confidence, especially when learning, but its far from necessary.

    The DR is a fun little bike, but its always gonna feel like a little bike. My advice is: If you're bored with it, then it's probably best to shop elsewhere.
  2. breakdirt916

    breakdirt916 CA PLATED 94 YZ250 2-STROKE

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    Klay - are you sure I can replace the OEM petcock with a manual one?

    I made the swap, plugged the extra hose, and the bike backfires and still won't idle.

    I pulled the carbs tonight, and kept "bursting" carb cleaner through the pilot jet/main jet/CV passageway until I was getting full streams out of the passageways. I started it again, and the bike still wouldn't idle unless I cranked the idle screw, and now the engine speed would 'race' instead of idle. the pilot jet was completely clear, so I wasn't sure what was going on. The petcock was still dripping, so I swapped it for a manual one, and now the bike starts a lot harder and after 500 revolutions or so, it would backfire. And if I wasn't twisting the throttle, it would stall almost immediately

    alas it was dark, so I gave up...going to pull the plug tomorrow and see if she is running lean or not, then do a better job plugging that extra hose (with glue), chop and re-install new fuel line (new petcock doesn't fit old fuel line), then go from there

    part of me thinks I should've left it - at least it ran before!

    side note: Suzuki must've decided on how they would prank/torture all DR200se owners - "hey let's make the carbs pretty easy to take out, but impossible to put back on! it'll irritate the owners, ha!" :rofl
  3. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    You have to take the jets out and actually soak them in something....just spraying cleaning fluid likely won't do the trick. The passageways in that little carb are very fine and small, and it's easy for them to remain clogged. It's good to clean the whole carb, but you can just turn it sideways and take the jets out if you want.


    It's hard to diagnose stuff over the internet, but keep at it. You'll get it sorted eventually.
  4. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Oh, and yes, the manual petcock will work just fine, and you eliminated one possibility for the source of the problem.
  5. breakdirt916

    breakdirt916 CA PLATED 94 YZ250 2-STROKE

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    good to know! the fuel line is a bit kinked, but I should have that replaced by tomorrow morning before work

    when you say soak - do you mean immersing the whole carb in water?

    or just the jets (ie. in a bag filled with carb cleaner)?

    I also replaced the OEM air filter - it was going on 14 years!

    the plug came out black a couple times; I'm curious if it was running rich from the carb issues I'm having, and also this junk filter. Maybe it was so clogged, that it decreased the air/fuel ratio?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  6. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Just the jets should be adequate. Not just water, some kind of carb cleaner. I've had good luck recently with a 50/50 mix of Pine Sol and water overnight.
  7. cidd

    cidd doppler shift

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    when you change out the petcock you did plug the vacum line right ??
  8. breakdirt916

    breakdirt916 CA PLATED 94 YZ250 2-STROKE

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    yes, the vacuum line is plugged

    I got up early, did a bunch of little things, and Klay you were right - now the bike starts and runs great! she starts easy without a handful of throttle, engine speed doesn't hang when I decelerate, and when I pull in the clutch at stops, the idle purrs like a kitten :clap

    the only problem is, I did so many different things, that I don't know what fixed it...I broke the "only change 1 thing at a time" rule...

    1.) I forgot to tighten the clamp on the intake boot (on the engine side). I'm guessing that if there was air leaking into the engine around the carb, it would explain the lack if idle, and backfiring.

    2.) I took out the aftermarket fuel line with filter and just re-used the OEM one. The aftermarket line (1/4" ID) was somehow too big...and it was also kinking, and possibly obstructing gas flow.

    3.) I cleaned the plug - it came out black again, but it was dry. This indicates that the burn is still rich, but not oil fouled. I'm on my 3rd plug in under 200 miles...something is certainly fishy there.

    4.) last night I took out the old OEM filter and swapped in a new one. Maybe it was restricting a lot of air, considering how broken/dirty it was, but I figure I'd have more problems if that was the case...

    so now it starts, runs, idles, and the petcock doesn't leak. I didn't tighten the float bowl screw enough, so it drips really slowly, but once I can move the carb enough, I should be able to fix that

    I can't wait to get out of work and go home so I can ride it again!!!!

    as for the rich burn - is there an air/fuel screw I can adjust?
  9. cidd

    cidd doppler shift

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    can someone stear me in the right direction I want to modify my exhaust myself and am looking for some info on how to. I have been trying to do the search but cant find squat.????? help
  10. breakdirt916

    breakdirt916 CA PLATED 94 YZ250 2-STROKE

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    First post, click on the kientech mods link
  11. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Just for the idle circuit. (the idle screw) For changing the mixture at higher rpms, you can change the jets and/or raise or lower the needle by repositioning the clip on the needle.

    I would just throw the Kientech jets in it so you don't have to fuss with sorting it out.
  12. breakdirt916

    breakdirt916 CA PLATED 94 YZ250 2-STROKE

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    will do!

    and I'll also check the current jetting - maybe my clogged pilot jet(s?) was affecting the burn...I cleaned the spark plug, so it should tell the story when I pull it out

    Funny thing - if I turn the bars to the left, the bike accelerates, hahaha

    Going to loosen the throttle cable...I'm hoping to ride southern california's hungry valley Saturday, so I gotta be ready!

    But cleaning the carbs helped a whole lot...bike just runs a lot smoother with the pilot circuit operational
  13. inuvik

    inuvik Adventurer

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    Recently installed the Tuturo Chain Oiler last week and here are a couple of pictures to show the finished product.

    [​IMG]
    Works great and I'm still fine tuning the oiling rate.
    [​IMG]
  14. cidd

    cidd doppler shift

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    sorry that just tells you where to buy it . I want to do it myself as in take the muffler apart and rebuild it myself anyone can go buy it . I have all the equipment I need to do it and the capability just kind of looking for basics on doing it . Like how much to open it up / what to remove and not remove that type of info ?
  15. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

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    What controls the oiler so that it only oils when the chain has been properly warmed up? I think I'd rather just spend 2 minutes every 2 weeks to oil my chain, but to each their own.
  16. inuvik

    inuvik Adventurer

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    It's kinda ingenious that's why I chose it over all of the other types. It uses a weight inside the little oil reservoir that when the bike is moving the weight moves which opens a valve. The small knob at the bottom controls the flow rate when the valve opens. It is completely mechanical and when then bike is sitting still it doesn't drip. It took a little tinkering to find the appropriate setting but you can set it to drip more if you're in wet or dusty conditions and so forth. A lot of oilers are either completely manual (turn the valve on and it drips until you turn it off) or automatic (some kind of micro electrical pump). I like it because I don't ever have to worry about oiling the chain and it doesn't require any electrical power and you don't have to remember to turn it on or off.
  17. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

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    That's pretty clever actually. Not something I'd bother with myself since keeping the chain lubed has never felt like a hassle. I just give mine a quick dusting of chain lube every 2-3 weeks and after I wash it.
  18. breakdirt916

    breakdirt916 CA PLATED 94 YZ250 2-STROKE

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    I want it for my streetbike!

    I end up lubing that thing every 2-3 days when I'm commuting 80-100 miles/day...
  19. LumberingJack

    LumberingJack Adventurer

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    I think I saw it on another forum, but pretty much you take a holesaw to the tail end of it, a little bigger than the outlet and then that piece and few inches of baffle should pull out. The part you pull out is a smaller bore than the rest of it and then you just slot the correct size tube in and run a bead of weld round the end.

    Probably not quite that simple but that's how I read it. I've yet to do it to mine,so don't know for sure what's inside, though am quite liking how quiet it is at the mo (plus as I've just bought an old 250 KTM 2 stroke too I'm less fussed the little DR's a bit steady!)
  20. inuvik

    inuvik Adventurer

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    I really like it, but it is a little spendy. It's worth it though because that's one less thing to worry about.