Can you use one dimmer for two different lights (ie a 30 and 44) or will that cause one to be much brighter than the other? What type of LED are they - semiled or CREE?
Yes, you can use as many lights as you wish, up to 96watts or 8 amps for each dimmer. That is a great question! The technical explanation of why they appear the same could be it's own topic! Can someone with a model 30 and a 44 post a pic? Cree
Not a great pic, but you can see the 44 (left side looking at pic) and 30 on right. 44 is brighter, due to extra led? :) Using one dimmer
Those are really bright lights. Would you have a pic with both the LED's and the turn signals on? They aren't being washed out by the LED's are they?
Good question, and it has been debated here. I have moved them down to the lower forks since this pic was taken...that was an opportunistic mount location since there were some matching holes in the shield I put on. My opinion is like yours, it would wash out the turn signals if they were on when you needed to signal, which is why I moved them, even though I liked them being high. I have some leds above the turn signals that flash counter to the turn signals, so there are more things going on, but still going with the lower mount area. Can get a pic if no one else posts one.
I got everything fabricated and painted and mounted up a pair of 30's on my Griso This is the lowest setting on my hardwired hi-beam bypass dimmer and the headlight is off, just the marker light is on. My camera wont handle the lights when they are on 100%, just go outside and stare into the sun for a while and you'll get the same effect as looking into the lights on full power.
Well, I just ordered a Model-30 to install in the nose of my sidecar to see how it handles being inset into the bodywork like that. There will be some air gap around it due to the size of the well and the diameter of the lamp, so that should allow some cooling, the question is whether it will be enough. On the existing 35watt H3 bulb PIAA lamps the manufacturer actually wrapped the OD of the lamp housings with a closed-cell foam to fill in the extra space around the lights, and the bulbs are not overheating. So if I leave the gap open I am hoping that the lower power Model-30 will be alright. I will report back after I get a chance to try it. I also ordered one the new waterproof LED voltmeters to install on the other bike. I will give a review of it as well.
The little vm I have hooked up is just a two wire hook up...is the extra signal voltage wire for this one a more accurate reflection or something rather than just using power and grnd?
anyone figure out a way to mount a solo light somewhere between the forks? mabye on the fender or .... ? photos?
The signal wire allows you to monitor a voltage other than your power source. In my case I am just monitoring my battery voltage so the +power and signal are shorted together.
Yes you are correct. Beam patterns can be seen on the website for the particular product under detailed description.
Ummmm.... Not quite. The signal wire allows the display to shut down when the ignition is turned off, therefore eliminating any battery drain when the bike is not running. It is basically like having a built-in relay circuit for the display to shut the unit down when the bike is turned off. Yes, the drain will be minimal if you just wire it to stay on all the time, but it IS a nice feature to have added in. Not having lights/digits glowing on your bike will also make it stand out less when it is parked at night; which can have its own advantages at times... ----- I didn't realize how short the wires were going to be on the V/M. Personally, it would be very nice if the unit could be supplied with 3-foot wires so that it could be connected to the battery terminals without having to splice extra wire in. Every splice is another potential place for failure in the future... How much extra would it cost to have the manufacturer add an extra 2-3 feet of wire to the units??? The incremental cost couldn't be all that much. As it is, I will probably run the included wire into the headlight shell so that the splices are protected from the elements, and then run the connecting wires to the battery and a switched circuit from there. ----- I have yet to see how viewable the digits will be in direct sunlight, but my initial impression is that it is a nice compact unit and not too bright for wrecking night vision. Still have not decided between velcro or permanent adhesive mounting. The ability to add a zip tie or two would be a nice feature as well. Hint, hint...
I want to give a big bump to John and Sharon. I bought a pair of Model 30s last year and have been very pleased with them. Recently, one of the lights failed. I contacted John, who told me to mail it back to Sharon for repair. The light was back in two weeks, fixed, no charge. Great service, guys, you know how to take care of your customers.
Howdy, Glad to hear that he stood behind the product! Do you have an estimate of how many miles/hours the light had on it before it went out? Type of conditions it was used in? (temps/vibes/etc?) Just trying to get a little more information to build up some data points on reliability/longevity. Thanks!
Hey Nomads, you could possibly get some Memphis Shades mounts like I used for both of mine, and make a tasteful crosspiece between them and in the middle drill a hole to mount the LED, just a suggestion.
You can see a picture of how I mounted the lights below. I took the picture yesterday. I got the lights last December and had ~800 miles, much commuting in cold NYC weather, predominately on the road, before the light failed. As I understand it from John, the failure was related to the HIDs I previoiusly installed, rather than cold weather or hard riding. I do not understand the mechanics of the interference btwn HIDs and LEDs and am hoping this will not repeat. I can tell you that HID/LED combo is stunningly brilliant. Here's the pic:
Umm yeah, that may take some explaining because that makes no sense at all. Not to mention an 800 mile "on road" life span.? As long as the lights see a constant 12Volts +/- and they are gounded correctly they shouild be fine,.
Something to do with a voltage drop while the HIDs are firing up? I know they draw insane amps for a few seconds... I don't know how low voltage would harm LEDs, though. I'd call it an unusual defective light, personally. Good on Sanjoh for agreeing and taking care of you!
Here's me and my lights caught by Killboy last month. When I have them fired up, people do get out of my way.
