BMW R1150RT / 1200RT / R1250RT Mega Thread

So I recently bought a 1996 r1100rt. 79,000mi. Well I went to pass someone, downshifted to 4, grabbed some throttle, and she just revved up and didn't go any faster
So what do u think? This is my first bmw. I am pretty handy with a wrench, where do I look? Should I just adjust something? Or just replace the clutch and pressure plate(or springs)?
I am still waiting on my service manual to come in, the dealer had to order one.

Hoagy

I just tried this and she jsut grunted out no problem, no slipping. Just like normal.

Hoagy

Lomax,
I have a 2003 1150 rt and had the same problem. I am 5ft 10, ride a stock seat with Alaska Leather butt pad.
Replaced shorter windscreen with an 16 in version.
Could not get the buffeting away from my helmet.
Finally, got a Laminar lip and put it on the 16 in windshield. What a difference.
I can adjust the windshield to have some air hit the helmet, or raise it all the way up, and have a wind-free pocket to ride in. Not even ear plugs.
For my money, best $ spent.
It forces the air from the top of the shield to curve further up over the head. Looks a bit homely, but I got used to the looks. Comfort wins!

I've seen the thread about how to mount your tires with straps that hold the beads together, but I'm wondering if anyone here has tried that with the 1200RT and the big rear tire? It would be cool to not have to drive to the local shop and pay $20/wheel for mounting. And balancing could be done with DynaBeads.

I just tried to mount a 200/50ZR17 on my Vulcan. Got the bead broken but could not get the bead over the rim with the tools I had. Need a 3 ft. tire iron for that radial tire, Metzler 210/50ZR17. Anyway, I then took it to the local automotive tire store and he did it for $10, off and on. Get the biggest tools you can find and try.

I have been bitten by BMW's legendary reliability. 1100RT quit on me in a driving rain 1.5 hours from home.......Classic Hall device failure.
I have ordered the components to build the timing box and 2 hall switches.
I will report back and I am using the Wisdom article to diagnose and repair.
Thank you for the Wisdom article.

Afternoon All,

Looking at a used 2000 RT-P and a 2003 1150 RT-P. The 2000 has 94k and change on it with a rebuilt driveshaft at 88k. The 1150 has 72k and has had no work done to it other than routine maintenance.

Is there anything I should be looking for? I know the 1100 is due for a timing belt and the PO doesn't know of a previous spline lube in 32k miles of ownership according to PO but beyond that do either of these bikes have any issues that may need sorting and can be detected through an inspection?

The 1100 is a previous CHP bike, no known origins of the 1150.

Thanks in advance.

I've been thinking about a RT. One thing I am apprehensive about, is maint. I don't let people work on my bikes, partially cause I am cheap, partially cause its a hassle bringing it in, and getting ride back.

I figure oil changes are probably easy. I understands they need valve adjustments. I am fairly mechanically inclined, if I got good instructions. Can I do this myself?

I also hear you need to bring it in for ABS to be adjusted. How often? Can you buy the tools to do it yourself?

What about electronic diagnosis, can I buy a scanner?

How good are the BMW manuals?

surf around JVB's site for awhile and you will know the 1200 better anyway
http://www.jimvonbaden.com/JVB_Productions.html

911 gs gives you the electro diagnosis: http://www.gs911usa.com/gs-911-compare.php

Jvb gives you a maintenance dvd: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/JVB_Productions.html

Most of the maintenance is a piece of cake.

Do you ever need to bring it back to a dealer? I am a cheapskate, plus theres just not alot of dealers. Does the ABS need to adjusted or calibrated?

Biggest issue that I am aware of is the fluid is supposed to be changed annually. To do so the fuel tank needs to be removed, I believe. This is still on my to-do list, along with the fuel filter. Beemer Boneyard sells the tool for the fluid change for about $35.

Zerk my 2003 RT is the best (worst) of the best linked ABS braking. I have tried independant shop to do the annual brake flush and they all tell me special equipment is needed for that model and suggested going to the dealer. re: brake control pack $$$

My first BMW motorcycle, it's a 2009 R1200RT.

Here's a list of mods and accessories I've added on it since I bought it new last October.

Fuzeblock FZ-1 fuse block
Ilium Works shift lever extension
Ilium Works side stand foot
Suburban Machinery rider foot peg lowering kit
Touratech brake lever extension
Touratech cylinder head guards
Touratech/Kahedo rider and passenger heated seats
West Tool & Design windshield support arms
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RKA pannier liners
Remus HexaCone titanium slip-on muffler

Zerk, the pre '07 rt's brake flush is a little complicated but I've seen it done at wrenching get togethers. It's doable.

I just posted up over on FleaMarket my 2003 RT, I'd like to get 7500 for the bike
26k on the clock and it's in pretty good shape. I am the 1st owner.

How often does the alternator belt need to be changed?

Every 36k is recommended, but YMMV.

.

Thanks.

You done good, son.