What switch do you have now? The stock Euro KTM CEV one is super compact and also very durable. I've got an extra if you need one.
That looks cool. Can I run over and pick up your extra!!! Oh wait you are in Austria! Do you have info on how I can order one? Cost? Thanks
It's the stock US market switch setup. The real problem with it is that the housing is too thick on the back side of the bar. As a result the thumbscrew adjuster on the clutch lever hits the housing if the perch is moved any further toward the end of the bar. I might take you up on that offer. I just wonder if the wiring harnesses are the same between the US and Euro spec models.
I am in the same boat. I am about to give in and buy the new switch that is plug and play. I fiddled with it just enough to ease pressure on HDB spacer, but now my clutch won't engage all the way. When I go from neutral to first it grabs pretty good. I almost have to put it in neutral at stops to keep it from pulling... Could we get some pictures from those not having problems. That have EXC's not XCW's. We know why those who were smart enough to get the XCW have yet another reason they made the better choice... I have a feeling that a smaller switch is in order, since Paul himself used his XCW for fitment I am sure.
ya gotta get rid of the stock switch housing, and get a smaller switch housing. Paul at HDB sells these types of switch housings for a good price: With a better switch housing, you can get the clutch in much closer. In my case, I moved to a better clutch lever as well
Ok I know that switch from my buddies US spec Husaberg, it is indeed quite bulky especially at the back and if I remember correctly it does not even allow you to switch off the headlight due to DOT regulation? I'm pretty sure that is the only difference with the Euro light - which does allow switching off - and the rest of the wiring is plug & play. KTM is pretty good that way, I have had that same switch on all my KTMs, from my first 1998 620 SC all the way to the 2012 fuel injected FE570. I can take some detailed pics of the wiring colors tomorrow so you can compare it to yours. Here is what the plugs look like, I assume they are the same? I'll try to find out the part numbers, but I know you can order it from US dealers. Unfortunately it's very expensive, you need a couple of parts and all together retail is almost $150... :eek1
Get the switch from Sicass Racing. I am installing one tonight and am confident it will solve the problem. Here is a link for the part. http://sicassracing.com/store/produ...switch?zenid=0135266039b4713069dded36ba0b8681
Except they are currently out of stock. First place I looked. It looks like the HDB switch housing might be the answer, but I assume that there will be some cutting and splicing required? How deep is it behind the bar?
Headlight switch:http://www.ktm-parts.com/50311070000.html Turn signal: http://www.ktm-parts.com/50311029000.html They are available in the US.
Yeah that looks right, but you also need an adapter piece for the blinker switch, plus some nuts and bolts to fasten the whole thing together. Has anybody tried it on the 500 or do you guys want me to post the wire colors to confirm?
That sucks I wont bust you EXC guys balls over this one. Have any of you looked into making a different Clutch line instead of having to mess with the wiring? It would be alot cheaper and faster.
We spent the day at the track This evening I pulled the bike apart and put new springs in and installed a scotts. Also went with a different height riser... its perfect now I love how changing the spring in the rear is a 2 minute job pardon the crappy tapatalk hosted compressed pics from my phone
The Sicass switch solved the clutch lever clearance problem nicely and helped somewhat with the clutch cable routing below the HDB swivel.
Is the problem with the EXC or with the HDB top clamp mount. I have no issues but I run normal bark busters and standard levers. All seem to work fine for me. I do have a question on EXC wiring. If I use the Sicass switch will it allow me to run the bike without turning on the lights etc. I am constantly forgetting to turn off the bike when stopped. Just not use to it. I have no use or desire for a key switch. Any suggestions?
The stock EXC obviously did not have the problem. The HDB top clamp created the problem where the clutch line runs straight into the HDB pivot. The line needs to plunge down sooner to clear. Right now, mine goes above the pivot but it is tight enough to raise concern about wear. The stock KTM switch has turn signal, high low and horn. It was too wide and deep for an aftermarket clutch lever to clear. I discovered the problem with the switch when I installed the KTM hard parts orange bling folding lever. I will try to upload pictures tonight of where I stand. I have talked with Paul at HDB about the issue and sent photos. He has not offered a solution. There is a company back in Ohio or something like that that can make a custom clutch line with cool colors (yes orange) that will solve the clearance issue. I just cannot bear to pay $100+for the thing so I am going to wait to see how the slightly longer EE clutch line wears.
And yes, you can eliminate the key withoutconcernfor the battery. Also, their is an off position on the headlight switch for the Sicass switch. I have the Baja Squadron insert so it only works on high beam.
I've though about it. Do you know if the clutch MC is threaded for a standard brake banjo bolt? If so, it should be a simple matter to replace the factory line and its inline fitting with a normal brake line of the correct length. It looks like a standard fitting on the clutch end.
I dont know what the thread pitch on the bolt is and if a typical banjo will fit but, Id be willing to bet in ANY industrial town inthe USA you can get a new Clutch line made any way you want , Howedver the Orange may be hard to come by
Hey Guys, I'm looking into the problem, not having an EXC but an XCW I didn't see or fully understand the problem. I'll pull mine apart and try and emulate the switchgear issue with my bike, see what I can do to minimize the problem without it cascading into buying more parts on your end. Is this a good representation of how far away the clutch perch is on the EXC? Do we have any other issues I need to look into? Let me know. Thanks, Paul
