New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

I never noticed this. In fact, you might be first person to ever mention this.

I really like the fact that there is a nut on the RR bolts and you don't have to rely on a torx driver. I also really like the fact that they don't break. I'll take "ill fitting" side panels over broken tank bolts any day.

I got your point right away!

The difference in the RR tank bolts is not just the grade or strength of the bolts, if you look at there design they put the load on the bolt in a different way, that is the main difference.

How can I safely change it to leaner without a dyno sniffer? Bike is my new to me 2010 690 ER with the Vortex ECU, FMF can and foam air filters. (The stock ECU is still there but I guess it's irrelevant...just along for the ride...right?)

It runs like a scalded dog. But it uses too much gas...between 35 and 38 mpg depending and I'm not the hardest rider around by any means. The three mixture settings on the Vortex are at 3-3-3, which is the leanest the instructions say I should go unless I have a sniffer. I don't.
The can exhibits a bit of black soot and a riding buddy said he could smell it....smells like too rich.

So I'm thinking to turn the three mixture screws to 2-2-2 and ride a tankful. Comments?

One other question. The 15 minute idle thing. After changing the Vortex, should I do the 15 min idle?

Thanks.

I don't think going from 3 to 2 will make the bike too lean. Do you know what maps are in the Vortex? With the Vortex no 15 min idle. I went back and forth with Vortex a couple of times to get the right maps in the right order for my bike with the map switch they offer. All good now. I am surprised the stock ECU is still there. There are two of them. If this ECU is still plugged in then it must be the smaller one. I would remove it. These days they put 5 maps for open airbox and 5 maps for closed airbox. I asked them to do an economy map too. Have not tested it yet.

Originally Posted by JustBob
Well then you've got a light bike...sorta. My GS's are both 475. The Ducati a bit less. All more than a KTM 500 or the 690. So your 425 lb Gixxer is a pig or a fairy, depending. It's all relative....my only point.

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Yep....my GS is a Fairy Pig:





But when I get on my 690....it is a Rocket Pig:




And when I get on my 450, it is a nuclear pig:




Just love riding those pigs

I may have this wrong in saying that I still have the stock ECU. What I have is the Map-Select switch under the seat. I haven't done anything with it, so maybe the ECU (wherever it is) isn't there? The X10 ECU settings in the instructions say it's for the Enduro-Open airbox, release 4, 28-4-11.Vecu1. It then gives a list of maps. Mine is set at X10 position 1 which says "Power Map1 (Softer initial throttle). Other options are for Traction, torque, power with variIous descriptors. Right now I'd just like to get some better mileage without hurting the motor. Should I dial back the fuel trim settings on all three throttle ranges to 2-2-2? This gives Base minus 7.5%.

Maybe best thing to do is send an e-mail to Richard Muurling at Vortex in Australia with your question and all the details you mentioned here. He may take awhile to reply but he always gives informative answers.

richard@vortexcdi.com

If all the maps are for an open air box then the bike would run rich with the foam air filters.

The last option would be to send the Vortex ECU to Mike Tolle in California to get proper maps for your bike setup. He charged me $100 to do that so not cheap.

Thanks for that. I'll contact Richard first.

After noticing a drop in rear brake pressure, when I removed this M10 special screw (KTM#76513057100) it was broken in half and the other half got basically stuck in the round piece ( looks like a nut) that's on the foot rest bracket. I then had it looked by a mechanic and he wasnt able to pull the rest of the broken screw out of it. I looked at the parts list and called KTM and went back and forth and concluded that the round nut like looking piece cannot be ordered separately and the only alternative is to order the entire right side foot rest bracket (KTM#7650303904401S). I have the cleanspeed break pedal if it matters.

Does anyone here offer any feedback on how to solve this. For now I have ordered the entire right side foot rest bracket. Below is the parts diagram from the manual. The part 6 is the special screw, part 4 are the 2 slide bearings and the screw goes into the round looking thing in the footrest bracket (if you follow the dotted line all the way to the footrest bracket).



Below is another view of the footrest bracket labelled as 17.

You do know that the bolt is left hand thread correct?

Have it and it's awesome. I've crashed on that side since installing it and it held up beautifully. I'll take this opportunity to remind you of the reverse threaded bolt that holds the lever on.

Jeff

I had to find that out the hard way... Broke tools and bolts, and had to redrill and retap the footrest bracket to be able to re-use it.
Another disadvantage of the setup (2008-2009) is that when the rear brake pedal joints get's dirty, it will tighten the bolt, making it very difficult to remove later.
The newer rear brake pedal (I think 2010 and on) uses a different system, still left hand thread but with bushings to prevent this problem.

No I didnt until now, but the problem at the moment is to get the broken screw out of the groove on the foot rest bracket. I will try to post some pics soon.

1) If you have not yet done so, use heat to break the bond of the
OEM thread locking compound. 300 degrees F. for 5 minutes should
do nicely. You can use a heat gun or a propane torch or a household
oven, all that matters is to get the thread locking compound molecular
bonds to break free.

2) If you can find some Kroil, use it on the threads of the fastener you want
to remove, after you have applied the heat. There is no penetrating oil
which works as well as Kroil. Ask any old-time aircraft mechanic about
Kroil, it is amazing stuff.


Kroil can be seen here :

http://www.kanolabs.com/



.

All you need is a Harley and you'd have an Old School Pig!

Thanks for the feedback. Just ordered Kroil. Hopefully this should do it.

I installed a clean speed lever. It's a nice piece of work and is very stout. Nothing bad to say about it and it's cheaper than the RR. I think they're out of AZ. Shipping to me was only like $6.

http://my2wheels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=121625&postcount=148