I see this debate on 4x4 sites, where it pits brother against brother, but haven't come across it here, so I thought I'd inquire and see what the hack builders thought: Is 1-5/8" ID A500b schedule 40 pipe (which is rated as structural, used for railings and such) OK to fab a sidecar frame from, or is that suicidal, and only 1-3/4" x .12 DOM tube should be used?
It would depend on the design. I used the square tubing from unwanted work-out machines for my sidecar frame and it works great. Not the traditional design, though.
Maybe you mean 1-1/2" ID? In any case, I matched the frame of my bike by using round 1-1/4" OD x .120 DOM tubing, and I cannot imagine needing anything any larger or heavier than that.
Why do you ask? Either one could fit into a design criteria. Most fabricators don't build vehicles out of pipe, more commonly tubing is used, but not always. Why simple DOM, why not 4130?? Again, why do you ask? You got a bunch of pipe laying around you want to build a sidecar frame with? BTW, most pipe charts show what you call 1 5/8 ID A500b Schedule 40 pipe is what is commonly called 1 1/2" pipe, it nominally measures out to 1.90" OD and 1.61" ID.
Just my opinion, Don't build motorcycle (or sidecar) frames with pipe. How much more will it cost to use the proper tubing? http://chopperhandbook.com/tubing.htm
As a matter of fact, yeah, there is a bunch of pipe lying around I could get cheap. Don't know about pipe either, I saw the labels and started investigating, and I didn't consult any charts, I just stuck a tape measure against the end. What's with the attitude anyway?
Thanks for the link, Haystack. Lots to digest. I haven't priced tubing, but someone offered me twelve 12' pcs of the pipe for $50. From the looks of it I figured it couldn't be any worse than the crap my Dnepr frame is made of. Googling it led me to 4x4 forums where there's big debate about using one or the other for roll cages.
Attitude?? Gee.....I thought I was providing you with technical information you could use. Having been a weldor/fabricator in a past life, the numbers (and the way you presented them) were kind of squirrely and I had to consult a chart to try to figure out what you were trying to talk about. The information I provided could allow you to to present yourself more intelligent manor if you are so inclined. Why you getting your panties in a bunch?
It is my understanding that the black pipe is very rigid/brittle and can/will break from impact or stress. There are lots of places to read about proper tubing for frame building. I sent that link because I already had it in my favorites from when I was looking for info on building a springer front end.
So if you have available some pipe that is almost 2" diameter with reasonably thick walls and the ability and equipment at your disposal to be able to fabricate a frame with then I cannot see why not. Notching the ends to butt together may represent a challenge as may welding and bending etc. But that is the beauty of this site. If you work out a plan then put pictures up here as you progess there will always someone willing to comment and some even know what they are on about . Of course frame materials are usually amongst the cheapest parts of a build. So press on and lets us all enjoy the journey with you. PS, never mind attitudes other than your own, its the only one you control. Cheers, Bruce
I have several old farm books showing how to make all sorts of small tractors, implements, and equipment, often using pipe for frames and structures. I suppose it could be done, but are the savings on that amount of material worth it? You are betting your life on it.
Pipe... One of my other hobbies is Four Wheeling my 1948 Willys Jeep...... My rollcage is made from 1 3/4 tubing ( .120 wall) My Rock sliders (under the outside edges of the body are made from 1 1/2" PIPE ( the 1.9" outside diameter stuff) the reason is I was tired of denting up my Sliders on every little 3 foot boulder that I drove over. .Pipe is waaaaay tougher than regular tubing, and as for anyone saying that it is brittle and will shatter...we are not talking about an Iron Plumbing stack from a 1920's house here...it's Steel Pipe... To Summarize... I say use the pipe if it's regular A501... the only stuff to avoid is sprinkler tubing ( measures as pipe size but is thinner walled) ... this usually has the grooves for Victaulic fittings (heavy cast clamp around the pipe thingys)
hi calling from sweden. (hope I can make my self clear in english.) here we have to show documentation in the car/bike inspection of the material used if we build our own stuff. its clearly regulated what material to use, I´m sure there is good pipes but they are made for fences and to contain water, tubes are made with a rigid quality control to fit specific purposes without shatter, colapsing etc. I wouldnt use pipes because I dont know how they react on stress or a crach. and I wouldnt buy a a bike if I wasent sure about the material for the same reason.
Easy there Strong Bad. You did the same as I would have done. Nothing to get worked up about here. Cheers.
My guess is that what you're being offered is 1 5/8" OD Schedule 80 pipe, with .190" wall thickness. That's what's used around here for making pipe railings. I've got a bunch of it in the garage that I'm planning to use for a frame.
Yup. Pipe, rolled many times: A good alternative to DOM if you're not worried about a sanctioning body or state inspection is HREW tubing, but for a side car frame I'd just use the pipe for $50.
Plenty of pics of homebrew pipe fab projects: Hey it was cheep so I'll use this stuff: Sick Schedule 80 fab work (note: non Fab guys may not see the humor) Home brewing: Hey...it's built like a tank! Don't forget the gussets! Needs to work on notching skills: Needs to work on welding skills: Notching skills, but got to learn how to measure: Sic Yo! A classic home build: So I had this pipe laying around: Got any extra?? How about a roll cage in your truck? Of course you could always use schedule 40 PVC: Just getting warmed up!
NO!... You're already giving me a headache, please stop now.:huh:eek1 IIRC, isn't work hardening a problem with pipe? It's been a while since I studied up on it, but it seems I remember reading that pipe will harden and eventual fracture under repeated loading/vibration.
