Well, I finally replaced my rear MT43 last weekend - but not until I squeezed another 250 street miles out of it! this was on the way to the Fuzzy Beaver Rally in western NC: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719630&page=25 yeah I know, I'm too poor to afford ultralight camping gear and too lazy to compress every sock, pair o' boxers, shirt, etc. when packing - get over it! Anyway, ended up with 3500 miles on the MT43. As you can see, it still had a lot of life left for street/commuting, and actually still gripped very well off road as long as it wasn't too wet. This was about 2X the life I was getting from aggressive DOT and non-DOT knobbies, with significantly better traction in all off road conditions other than pure mud. After seeing what the new MT43 could do off road at the rally (uber-steep 5 minute "hill" climbs countless wet log and rock crossings, etc), quite a few folks were asking about it - might have converted a few!
Heheh....I did didn't I? I'm sure you're all judging....harshly FYI, the crank & rod are being memorialized into a big plaque/paperweight thing for my desk--by the guys at the shop. Wooden base, all polished and mounted nice. Crazy right? I need to ride it...but the S10 is like macht schneller to work...hard to pass it up. :) Soon we ride, that not-a-racebike WR makes a sweet sweet sound--beckons you, "Anywhere boss?"
W/O breaking the bank on hollow titanium bolts and such has anyone tried to quantify making the WRR as light as "reasonably" possible?
Thanks for the input. I've seen reviews on its wet performance go both ways, guess ill find out. Bridgestone says its supposed to also be the successor to the bt090. Unless there's standing water compound matters more than tread... if I can handle all that fuel sloshing around with my stock shock trying to kill me.
Yes, all you need to do is to buy a ktm or bmw 450, or a husqvarna..... Kidding...... I took the huge tail off, passenger pegs, reflector brackets, etc...reLly no more that 10lbs. Not much weight to take off really.
HOLY SMOKES ! ! ! :eek1 Did anyone else besides me see this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17113300 Brand spankin new IMS 4.7 gal tank (never used) for sale at $100 off retail price! This is crazy good.....for somebody quick on the trigger. Thought I'd link it since there's been a bunch of IMS big tank discussion going on here. Seems there's some interest in it. HF
OSU, I want to thank you again for the C1 writeup. I just went out and played with my bike. Mine was at 0, I went both ways, seemed to pull a bit harder at -1. I can see where you would have had an issue at -4, when I went down to -3 mine was noticably "flatter". I also like the ability to have a tach when you want it. I'm thinking about wiring a switch in line to short the "magic" wire. It would be nice to be able to ground this w/o pulling the seat and unplugging the connector, just to be able to play more conveniently.
Fuc... I want that bad. But I just blew my cash fund on the bike 2 weeks ago. I'm going to get one this winter (sloshing and all). 120 mile range just isn't enough around here.
Weight loss info, courtesy of ramz http://www.rickramsey.net/WR250Rmods.htm Oh yeah, had to make another adjustment to this DAMN bike. I think sarah mentioned checking the idle if youre bike isn't running its best. Mine was down around 1250-1300with when its supposed to be 1450-1650 rpm. A few quick turns of the idle screw and she's as strong as ever. All this maintenance is getting to me lol shouldaboughtaktm lol jk
Interesting thought, I wonder if it would cause a problem. I might need to play and see what happens. I "unshorted" it and plugged in the LAS before starting, per OSUs directions. I think that just lets the LAS signal go to the 'puter. Not sure what happens otherwise if you leave the diagnostic wire shorted with the motor running. Have you tried it? I hesitate to be the first, once you let the smoke out of electronic components, it gets spendy to get it back in.
Ya I am thinking of soldering a wire to the back of the the connector to ground with a simple switch mounted on the plastics it will be interesting when I get an aftermarket exhaust and dyno it to find the sweet spot. This would be a job for Krabill and HF I think they should put it on there website http://www.wrrdualsport.com/ its a great site and the reason I have my bike! <a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/ferzen/?action=view&current=b48da8b3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/f/ferzen_b48da8b3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> my blue mini beast <a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/ferzen/?action=view&current=5f7a65fb.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/f/ferzen_5f7a65fb.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> and the evil moster
Mine is soldered to ground (neg battery term) and so far, no smoke. My bike has become a PITA to start, but who knows why given all my recent mods. Most likely my fuel pump is finally crapping out, but it bump starts fine so I've just been dealing with it until I get home (I'm on a trip right now up in the mtns.... ). -SM
It might be easy to just Scotchlock the two black wires together. It would be necessary to cut out the "dam" on the one side of the SL.
I just used a positap on the ground wire then ran a new line to the negative terminal, crimped down under the terminals for my GPS and heated gear leads. Y'all are making this too complicated. Several thousand miles and all kinds of weather with it this way and no issues, tip over sensor still works fine.