Tiger Tales - Dialling in the 800XC for the dirt

Buying American for patriotic reasons I can totally get (I ride ENGLISH Triumphs after all...) but for quality purposes alone ? Doesn't add up.

If this is a repost/205/whatever, my apologies. If not here ya go.

I missed out on the group buy pre-filter thing a while back so I flew solo. $26.82 for filter and $12.73 to ship from the Land Down Under. Arrived in 15 calendar days.

I'll refrain from making any comments on its shape/appearance.



This is the ABS model XC (2012) so had to get a few things outta the way.




It helps if you have a couple fingers on your right hand that are 8" long. Otherwise some patient manipulation with a screwdriver might be needed to install the lip of the filter in the airbox.

And voilà



Back together and ready to start sucking air.

It's very simple, really... Americans are very fond of inventing new uses for common things... Also, Americans in general are pretty dumb.

... and then being video taped while failing miserably in execution and then appearing on YouTube, a reality show or Springer, or if they are really, really special, they will receive the prestigious Darwin Award for their valiant act of bravery in pursuit of the unknown.

Hey T,
I missed the group buy too so I placed an order Down
Under a couple weeks ago and have not had any response
yet from UNI. E mailed customer service and was told they
received the order. Hoping it shows up soon!

Back on track...

Does anyone have a recommendation for a short clutch lever?

I want to be able to feather the clutch and pull it in without having to completely open my hand or crush my last two digits. (so a 2 finger lever)

I'm about to cut down the stock lever, but like a little nub on the end. I got the eBay special, a set of folding adjustable levers for 20something bucks. I put the clutch on and the thing at the shortest length is exactly the same as stock. The extra length to adjust is pointless. They are a little loose on the pivots, but the reach adjustment works fine.

I'm sure the Triumph ones are great, but $180 bucks? Jeebus. Besides they say it's hard anodized finish and they are silver and black and red. They apparently don't know there is such a thing as Hard Anodizing, which that clearly is not as it would be gray. Lame.

I got some off of Amazon for about $40. I really like them. I went with the shorty clutch/brake levers, anodized black with black adjustment lever. They are great quality and have a nice hand to them. I would buy again. After feeling these, I would never spend the $$$ for the Triumph ones...

JG

Cool. Can you post our on a link to them? I'd like to check them out....

I have one for sale on ADV:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=908769

On the second day of a recent month-long trip, I got an ABS warning and lost all distance measuring (odo, trip meters, computer). A few days later I found the rear speed sensor cable had been severed. This may the be entire cause (seems unlikely) or a contributing factor, this will have to wait until the bike gets back for investigation.

At the time I thought I must have been unlucky and a rock had been flung onto the swingarm - there were surely enough of them on our road. I did a temporary fix, but it did not restore the odo.

To my shock, the taped-up cable was severed again a day later. Then it occurred to me - the impact point is right under the luggage mount arm. We were riding two-up with luggage on very rough roads and a few tracks. I know the suspension bottom-out a few times.

So it looks like there may not be enough clearance underneath the luggage arm. I should point out I have the bike lowered 20 mm, which would reduce the clearance. I have adjustable lowering links - the fixed ones are either 25 or 35 mm. They'd be even worse.

If I find that clearance is the problem, I'll have to get rid of the standard luggage. Pretty darned lucky it didn't take out the brake line. Still not convinced this was the only cause of the odo problem - I surely hope the bike has enough redundancy to use only one speed sensor for that. May have also blown a fuse.

For now I am just saying "beware" if you you have lowered suspension and factory luggage mounts, and plan to take the bike into rough conditions.

I did the same and the little red sock did indeed arrive about two weeks later. Maybe that "Aussie Grit" makes them feel less of a need to comfort and assure web buyers that an order has been placed, processed and then shipped.

I commonly buy kit internationally. It's always quick on the international leg and then slows way down in the always-awesome USPS system. Coincidentally, I used to live in the same city as T (I follow the Delaware tag/chatter threads to feed my homesickness) but now live on the opposite side of the continent. Stuff would arrive from the UK in less than a week to DE. It now takes more like 2+ for AZ. And vise-versa for shipments arriving from Hong Kong, Australia, etc.

Keep in mind that lowering links will alter the leverage against the spring. This could cause the suspension to be more easily compressed. You may need to get a spring with a more appropriate rate to compensate for the change in leverage the link causes.

From what I've read, the most reliable way to lower a bike is internal to the shock. A suspension shop should be able to provide good feedback on what to do to make it work for you if you are unable to use preload to keep the rear from bottoming easily when riding two-up.

Something you can do first is check sag. With preload adjusted to max, measure the sag at static (bike weight only) and loaded (gear, rider, passenger). If you see more than ~30% travel being used this will be the tell that a heavier spring is needed to compensate for the load and the leverage change from the link.

Finally had to clean mine yesterday, was harder to get out of there than to put back in. I guess the residual filter oil made the airbox fitting just slip right in. Initial installation was to prop the tank, but re-installation done without. Very slick.

Man, was it dirty. Maybe after a couple of cleanings I'll look at the main filter. I'll bet it's clean. I guess a valve check is coming up in a few thousand so I'll get my chance. Propping the tank is a PITA with all the plastic trim pieces.

The UNI is a great product.

I completely agree. What type of oil are you using for the UNI? I have UNI brand from a previous bike air filter but it doesn't feel or look the same consistency

I have used Maxima FFT for a dozen years. The carrier makes it easy to apply and squeeze out, then evaporates off and leaves a super sticky dirt grabber. Fantastic stuff with latex gloves...no so much without.
Also it's blue so it's easy to tell how well it's coating the filter element.

I still prefer gasoline to clean filters, but in later years try to have a gallon of paint thinner around which does an okay job but I follow with simple green and a garden hose. When you wash it then it has to air dry before oiling. Not a problem here in so-cal with so much sunshine. With gas you can just re-oil and go, but naysayers don't like the combustion risk and it can break down foam filter glue. Out of dozens of filter elements I've only had one break down in all these years.

Cleaning foam filters is a pita though, so for dirtbikes normally we'd have a few of them and when they all get dirty clean them all at once, re-oil, and drop in a ziploc bag. Use grease on the sealing surface (not needed with the tiger pre as it has the rubber connector).

Push a Philips screw driver through the middle of the top (if you see what I mean) and the filter will just lever right out.

Yeah, did mine the other day and boy, does it seem to get dirty quickly? I also used petrol/gas to clean it and just use clean engine oil on it to re-oil.

Yes I am very happy with the Uni Filter as well, it stops 98.9% of the dust getting into the air box. I also installed a K&N main filter at the same time and haven't cleaned it yet because the Uni filter is doing such a great job.
Some would say is the K&N realy needed? I think so, if for any reason the Uni filter is damaged the K&N is a great back up. When I have the 20,000 service I'll clean the Main filter.

I wash the UniFilter out with Mineral Turpentine (Turps), clean it up like new every time, then wash in warm soapy water, dry and reoil. I use a blue oil in colour so I can see that it is covered properly

I haven't been satisfied with the lighting on my Tiger 800 XC. Not enough light on the highway or offroad. Before I spent the money for some auxiliary lights I thought I would give some HID's a try. I just got back from a test ride after installation. All I can say is "wow!" They are much brighter on the interstate and on backroads. Road signs are much easier to read too. No one flashed their headlights at me so I guess they aren't blinding on coming traffic either.

The install was pretty easy. And you don't need all those relays, and canbus attachments they try to sell you either. I just installed the bulb, plugged in the ballast and everything worked fine. All in all, a great value. They will probably increase my daytime visibility too.

Alright, so this thread rocks since there's so many options for people's style and of course function.

Can we get a nice list of what one should do in order of priority to their 800 for dirt worthiness?

Function highest to lowest

List what you have/tried/don't recommend/need desperately

I'm in the beginning stages, so this is super important as I'm hooked, and want to avoid crashing as much as I did on some proper trail riding with stock tires...

Umm, go back to page 1 and start reading. Burren pretty much covered it and the rest of us just copied him.

From what I saw, a better set of hand guards and a bit more aggressive rubber and you're all set. You have the right attitude, and crash bars (oh sorry Triumph, dresser bars) to get the job done. Maybe the upper bars, but tires first.

I thought I wouldn't ride with the luggage rack when not camping, but the rear crash protection it affords has saved mine and the bikes ass many times already. It also seems to make the bike easier to pick up, a lift handle and just that much more off the ground. But not the highest priority.


(FWEIW, I bought a Sven saw last night, and you can have my Fullbore front if you want, 60% left...)