Hi there folks, I recently got a '96 Honda SLR650 that didn't work for a long time and paid something like 200 euro for it. After cleaning it all up I realised that it was in better shape than I thought and did an overhaul to the engine, cleaned the carb and it started and runs like a clock. Then I took it for a ride, and the first time I pressed the brake pedal, it reacted ok but when I took my foot off the brake it continued to brake even more until when I arrived home, the pad was completly stuck to the disc. Bought a new set of pads, inspected the slave cylinder, took it all apart and it was all ok. I mounted it all again on the bike, bled the brake, went for a ride, pressed the bake pedal and it happened again. I noticed that the pedal became very hard like pressure was building on the master cylinder... with the spanners, i loosened the nut that connects the pedal to the master cylinder and it loosened the pads but the next day I had to brake again and it all happened again but now I can't loosen the nut as it is at the end of the thread. This never happened to me before, could you enlighten me? PS. sorry for my english
There's a small return hole in the bottom of the master cylinder that gets plugged up and won't release pressure properly. You can see it if you use a clean, lint free cloth/paper towels etc and sop the fluid out. You need to clean it out.....you can try and use a fine piece of wire that fits, but you might end up needing to remove the master and give it a thorough cleaning.
Sometimes if there isn't enough play in the brake pedal linkage, the brake pedal will keep the master cylinder bleed hole covered preventing fluid from returning from the slave cylinder to the reservoir. That will keep the brake on and the resulting heat build up will expand the fluid which has no where to go except to apply more pressure to the pads. The brake pedal linkage needs some free play before it contacts the master cylinder piston.
Y'all over looked something, the bike has been siting up from what I read, I bet the piston is sticking and then heat is building up in the caliper from the dragging pads and putting pressure on everything. But I would check what they have alreay stayed first because they are easier to fix but if those do not work. take the caliper off the rotor, take the pads out of it, press the break until it popes the piston out, have something under it to catch the fluid. I bet you will find some nasty looking sludge in there. just clean it out and clean the piston off really well. be careful to not hurt the O-rings in the caliper, once it is all clean get everything wet with fresh break fluid and carefully slide the piston back in with the bleeder open.be careful not to let it get tipped as you slide it back in it needs to stay strait to not cut the O-rings. it's a easy job to do just be slow and careful doing it.
Thanks a lot for the help, it really was the return that was all clogged up. Cleaned it all and now it's only braking when I want too I actually did it in the same week that I posted this thread but I kinda forgot to thank you guys Now I have another doubt... how come the XR650L has 61hp up to the year 2000 and the SLR650 has less than 40? Does anyone know what sort of changes they did on both engines and if I could do the same to my stock engine? Cheers
I'm glad we could help you And the XR650L only comes with 44hp at the crank stock, not 61...thats a mis-print It has the same power as your SLR Although its pretty easy to get another 7-8hp out of the U.S. XRL's, they come pretty badly strangled stock because of our emmissions laws....not sure if the SLR is the same or not tho?
Nah, no smog reduction parafernalia here I wonder how much hp would it gain just from boring with an high compression piston, a mild camshaft and a two to one straight through exhaust but usually when I start tinkering about, I end up with a bike that I can't sell and lose a lot of money... but still... It would be a different story if this SLR came with nice suspension as the XR comes
