BMW R1150RT / 1200RT / R1250RT Mega Thread

some great posts with photos for this and other service tasks on

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/forum.php

Thanks been there. Looking for 05 rt info. Could not find there

there are a couple discussions ref replacing drive shaft u joints etc.,on 05 and newer bikes, is there something specific or unique to your bike you are not getting answers to?

I purchased the fill in seat section off an 06 RT-P & i`m trying to figure out where the back mount slide pin bolts too. I`m fitting this onto my 2010 R1200RT non P & noticed also that the shock adjuster knob seems to be in the way also. Does anyone have a good pic of the mounting of this setup . I`m going this route , so i can run a fuel cell where the back seat would go & the filler is just perfect.

I also noticed on the bottom front of the fill in section , that it has a spring clip setup that slips onto something below the riders seat (need pics of that also). This way i can order the parts from Bobs BMW.

Yes i posted this on MOA but no answer (lots of lookers)

Thanks
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I am having trouble with the abs brakes on my 2006 RT. When I turn on the key, what I assume to be a servo starts up, but doesn't shut off. When I apply front brake the servo works harder. When I spin the rear wheel and use the front brake nothing happens. When I apply rear brake the wheel will stop. I did a full brake flush and pad change over the summer when I did a full service, thanks (JVB). Have ridden 3000 miles since with no problem. I have found lots of info about ABS problem with the R1200 series, but could find nothing with the problem of a servo that keeps running. Micro switches seem to be working as the brake lights come on while applying each brake. I cleaned the speed sensors and checked the wiring. I have 33000 miles on the bike.

Did you clean the filters on the pump? http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15016545&postcount=11

Thanks mwood, I missed that. I will give that a try this weekend.

Keep searching. I distinctly remember a problem like that discussed in one of the threads, but cannot recall the solution. It's somewhere here.

Also, post a separate question in G-Spot: there is a lot of inmates with good R-bike knowledge, who do not deign to visit us Road Warriors.

That's a good find. I'll try to remember.

In the past when I've seen this, it was caused by the rear brake pedal not being able to fully return to disengaged. Suggest checking to be sure the rear brake pedal is working properly.

Thanks for the tip. I will have another look at it.

I had a similar problem with my 2005 R12GS, turned out to be a switch in the hand break was bad. I sold the bike a couple years ago and I don't have my paperwork to see what it was now.

I am striping down my RT to build a custom bike like larryboys or Fabs and I am curious why the wiring harness has 2 areas that a mass of brown, white, green and a couple of other wires are crimped together in bunches.

What is the purpose of this massive knot of wires...not once buut twice?

It is definately a factory thing and not some home splice job. Just seems like a massive waste.

For example the brown wires are for grounding. This allows an economical, reliable connection of many wires to a common point.

That does not sound economical OR reliable to me.
Running a single larger gauge wire and then using a frame bolt to connect other leads out would be lighter, and much less bulky.

That is also very reliable, and utilizes existing components rather than a huge bundle of wires with a subpar joint at 2 different places.

What are the white wires? Hots?

Not sure how or why I ended up in this thread....moved...?

Anyway,
The question I have now is=
Is the FAG anti-lock pump and its systems and wiring intermingled with the Motronic electronics and FI systems?

I am deleting the ABS, going to a dirt bike front end and no abs on a 320 mm Sumo rotor, and I want to delete the wiring out of the harness. I of course will cap off and heat shrink any wire that has to get cut out of those big bundled wires so there is no shorting or grounding issues, but clipping that entire part of the harness will not interfere with the ignition or FI will it?

+! .



Cameleer: What you are looking for (shims) are washers of two different thicknesses. There are "full thickness" and "half-thickness" washers. Stacking the combination will assist you in placing the Throttlemeister in the correct position for the "piston" to move into position to hold the throttle grip in place. It is actually quite easy to adjust once you realize that there is a piston moving in and out of the right side weight assembly, and it cannot start too far away from the throttle grip.



The problem you are describing tells me that the washer stack inside the bar end is too tall (too many or no half-thickness washers). Take one out and try it again and see if that allows the piston to push into the throttle grip. Be certain that you can fully disengage the friction after your installation.



I know it sounds dumb, but be sure the bar end with the piston is on the throttle side. I actually found a set reversed by a dealership installer. They had no clue, obviously !.



Another problem I have seen is that installers put all the half-washers on the clutch side bar end, so check and see if they are over there.



Only other hint I can give is to be sure the piston is fully retracted into the bar end, and that the shim washer stack has the bar end with a visible gap, but not too far away from the throttle.



If you discover that you are missing the half-thickness washers, you can give Throttlemeister a call and they will send you a couple, usually without charge. If you are in a hurry, I have actually manufactured half-washers by taking some stainless steel washers and grinding them on a carborundum stone. Took about 30 minutes to do that for my RT after I dropped the shim washers and could not find the half-washer (Murphy's law number 94 or some such!).



Good luck !

Thanks for your replies guys, it's appreciated. I haven't had a chance to look into the T-Meister because I left my bike in Spain and I'm back in the Sandpit. I have the feeling though that I was doing something REALLY idiotic and was twisting the T-Meister in a CLOCKWISE direction, opposite to the throttle opening and contrary to the instructions.
Brilliance eludes me again.

Doug: Your bike looks AWESOME, ordered the Kristas and will report. They don't look as good as on the 1200RT as they are mounted up and above the mirrors but, hey, the purpose justifies the looks.

All the best, Cameleer

+1. Had to fix this when I was 2000 miles into a 5000-mile trip last fall. Turned out the T-Meister was too far outboard to create the needed friction against the end of the grip (I assume this is because the frictive surfaces wear down/apart). Once I figured this out, the hard part was finding a washer of the correct thickness at a hardware store in Great Falls, MT. They didn't have any. But it turned out that I did: I had a couple of thin plastic body screw washers in my spares kit. Since replaced with a half-thickness metal washer. All is good.

Side note: on that trip, I rode for two days without a throttle lock before fixing it. Holding the throttle open for almost 15 hours led to a case of moderate positional palsy of the radial nerve and a 10-week recovery time.

p.s. sorry if I'm misquoting

One of my riding friends has just had her 6000 mile service on her 2012 R1200RT. The valves were out of adjustment and the dealer had to replace some small pea shaped spheres and semi spheres. What are these parts and what is their function. Part numbers 11347721187, 90, 93,94.. They replaced the valve valve cover gasket as well. That I understand.
Could the wearing of these parts have caused the increased burning of oil? Dealer told her it was very odd to have to replace the small spheres and semi spheres.

Thanks for any insight.

Bud.

The items replaced are shims used to adjust the valve clearance. On most bikes they're a flat disc. BMW cam-heads use a fairly unique configuration where they're (all) semi-spheres. The valve cover gaskets are meant to be re-used so should not need to be replaced every time the cover is removed.

It seems most of the cam-head engines are going 20 k or more without valve adjustment, so it is unusual that so many shims would need changed at 6K. No need to be concerned unless several need replaced at the next service interval.

If the bike is burning oil it is a common condition on the newer boxer motors and not related to valve adjustment. The rings and cylinders are so hard that they may not bed in until well over 20K when the oil consumption decreases. There are tons of threads all over the internet about it. Google "BMW boxer oil consumption." The up side is that due to this hardness these engines can go a couple hundred thousand miles and not need the rings replaced.

Every other bike that I have owned had flat shims. I was not aware of the BMW shims. Ive never had an issue with any of my BMWs burning oil in any ggreat quantity. My 2012 rt does not. Ive read about those that do but have not experienced it myself. Then again Ive never had a rear drive failure either.

Thank you for the help.

Bud